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Not a fan of 'cleaners' that leave residue behind.
Cleaning new blued revolvers
- Thread starter Wfevans4
- Start date
SnidelyWhiplash
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WD-40 is known to kill primers.
It's been " claimed " to kill primers . The gun forums are full of posts about it but nobody ever said
" It happened to me " . I've busted that wive's tale a couple of years ago and I'm in the middle of running the experiment again with some even more severe conditions .
Model 15-4ever
Member
I have a several "new" bluing S&W revolvers. I use these products without any problems:
Cleaning - Hoppes No.9 or Shooters Choice Lead Remover. Wipe it off completely after cleaning.
Lubricate/Preserve - Clenzoil.
Cleaning - Hoppes No.9 or Shooters Choice Lead Remover. Wipe it off completely after cleaning.
Lubricate/Preserve - Clenzoil.
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From the current S&W revolver owner's manual:
"CAUTION: Some cleaners can cause damage to your firearms. You
should avoid prolonged solvent immersion and prolonged ultrasonic
cleaning of your firearm. Choice of solvent should be restricted to
those products specifically developed for firearms maintenance.
Damage to a firearm's finish may occur if these cautions are
ignored. Ammoniated solvents or other strong alkaline solvents,
should not be used on any Smith & Wesson firearm."
"CAUTION: Some cleaners can cause damage to your firearms. You
should avoid prolonged solvent immersion and prolonged ultrasonic
cleaning of your firearm. Choice of solvent should be restricted to
those products specifically developed for firearms maintenance.
Damage to a firearm's finish may occur if these cautions are
ignored. Ammoniated solvents or other strong alkaline solvents,
should not be used on any Smith & Wesson firearm."
Over the 50 years I've owned and shot, a number of Model 19's. after cleaning, I always used silicon spray buffed in with a clean Micro-fiber towel, with great results..
I use CLP or Rem Oil.
I used to use Mpro7 gun cleaner since it's supposedly non-toxic. But I found that it left a sticky residue on my guns, so I stopped using it.
You know those sets of gun brushes that come 3 in a package? Usually one is nylon, one is bronze, and one is stainless steel. I set aside the stainless brush far away from my guns so I don't accidentally use it. I used a stainless brush before, and it took off the bluing.
For any blued gun, I use the nylon brush first. I use the bronze brush on the breechface and on the front of the cylinder if there is carbon or lead buildup that the nylon brush can't remove. I only care about removing the layer of carbon or lead that can bind against the forcing cone. There will be some staining on the front of the cylinder that may not come off. But that's okay because I'll just shoot the gun again next time I go to the range.
I use a bronze bore brush soaked in CLP or Rem Oil to clean the bore and chambers. I follow up with wet 12 gauge sized Hoppes patches. I like the 12 gauge size patches since they're bigger than .38 sized patches. After the wet patches come out clean, I use some dry patches and ensure that I've completely dried the bore and chambers.
An important area to clean is behind the extractor star. The small tip of a nylon brush is good for this. I then use a .22 caliber sized Ramrodz to dry the area under the extractor star.
Something else to consider is not storing blued guns in foam lined cases, since the moisture buildup can cause rust.
I used to use Mpro7 gun cleaner since it's supposedly non-toxic. But I found that it left a sticky residue on my guns, so I stopped using it.
You know those sets of gun brushes that come 3 in a package? Usually one is nylon, one is bronze, and one is stainless steel. I set aside the stainless brush far away from my guns so I don't accidentally use it. I used a stainless brush before, and it took off the bluing.
For any blued gun, I use the nylon brush first. I use the bronze brush on the breechface and on the front of the cylinder if there is carbon or lead buildup that the nylon brush can't remove. I only care about removing the layer of carbon or lead that can bind against the forcing cone. There will be some staining on the front of the cylinder that may not come off. But that's okay because I'll just shoot the gun again next time I go to the range.
I use a bronze bore brush soaked in CLP or Rem Oil to clean the bore and chambers. I follow up with wet 12 gauge sized Hoppes patches. I like the 12 gauge size patches since they're bigger than .38 sized patches. After the wet patches come out clean, I use some dry patches and ensure that I've completely dried the bore and chambers.
An important area to clean is behind the extractor star. The small tip of a nylon brush is good for this. I then use a .22 caliber sized Ramrodz to dry the area under the extractor star.
Something else to consider is not storing blued guns in foam lined cases, since the moisture buildup can cause rust.
Last edited:
I agree, stainless steel brushes have no place in normal firearms maintenance. Not even for removing lead from chamber throats or the bore. For tough deposits, pure copper Chore Boy pot scrubber material works great and will not harm a blued finish, but stainless brushes can do a lot of damage.
Invictus357
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Ballistol
If you are sensitive to smells, get the Ballistol wipes.
Run them through like a patch.
Spray down your gun with Ballistol.
Scrub down with nylon brush.
Use bronze brush and then use boresnake on barrel and charge holes.
Wipe gun down.
Done
If you are sensitive to smells, get the Ballistol wipes.
Run them through like a patch.
Spray down your gun with Ballistol.
Scrub down with nylon brush.
Use bronze brush and then use boresnake on barrel and charge holes.
Wipe gun down.
Done
Last edited:
AlwaysArmed
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I use mass airflow sensor cleaner from the auto parts store. Won't harm plastics either.
AA
AA
I had a Ruger Stainless Single Six that you had to nearly beat the empty cases out of the cylinder . I found a stainless bore brush in my kit and used it to polish out the cylinder . Problem solved .
I have two blued revolvers that I place in gun sacks and store in a foam lined hard case . ZERO moisture issues . If the inside of your safe is dry , you aren't going to have moisture problems .
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