Bullets for .357 Mag

[venomballistics]

Not all hp's are created equal. Everglades Ammo is using a "generic" 158gr hp for the 38spl/357mag. That bullet you're looking at will not perform well at higher velocities. The hp cavity is too big/deep and is best suited for 38spl velocities.

3 different hp's cast for the same bullet.

The penta point is for +/- 800fps
The large round hp for +/- 1000fps
The small round hp is for +/- 1200fps

Different hp's for the 38spl/357mag's

Standard hp pin for the lyman and h&g 35cal molds are 1/8" in diameter.
Top row 3rd/4th/5th bullet from left and bottom row left and right bullets all have the standard 1/8" hp.
The top left is a home made swaged jacketed hp & the top row 2nd from left are cast with huge hp's for the 38spl.
The bottom row center bullet is a cramer bullet specifically designed for the 357mag, it's called "the hunter" bullet. It has a small hp that is designed to be used/effective at high velocities.

The Forrester hp tool uses a 1/16" bit for rifle bullets and a 1/8" bit for pistol bullets. The shanks of the bits is 5/32" and you can install a 60* center drill in the tool to make larger hp's. This is a lyman 429422 hollow based bullet that I put a large hp in (60* center bit/5/32" in diameter).

That was a 1000fps load that mushroomed the hp.

You used to be able to special order molds from lyman with oversized hp pins.

On the left is a standard 1/8" pin mold that I made 2 pins for. 1 pin is the standard depth. The other is a lot shallower making a cupped hp.
The mold on the right is a special order hp mold with a .140" pin. Typically 44/45cal lyman molds came with a .140 or a .156" pin.

The .140" pin is for 38spl +/- 800fps loads.
The standard .125" pin is for +/- 1000fps loads.
The cupped hp pin is for anything over 1200fps.

Myself, I've done a fair amount of testing different bullets and powders in the 357mags. At the end of the day I like to use a fn bullet in the 357mag.

The 158gr hp's on the left are for the plinking/blammo ammo.
The 170gr fn bullet on the right is what I use in my carry 357mag with a 1200fps load.

The 2 1/2" bll'd 586 l-comp I use that 170gr/1200fps load in.

Myself, I'd be taking a hard look at cast or coated bullets for that 4" 686. You'll get higher velocities for the same bullet weight. Along with cast bullets tend to have longer noises that allow the reloader to get the bullet out further into the leade of the chambers in the cylinder increasing accuracy. But still having the ability for a good solid crimp.

^^^^^
THIS

My research had similar findings.
The cast HP is a nuanced affair with room for a few schools of thought.
I tended to stick to a larger diameter cavity, but try to do my tuning in cavity depth and contour.
It seems that once we get a lead bullet started, it just keeps on expanding even when the cavity depth is exceeded.
at magnum velocities, a fairly shallow cone of generous diameter was all that was needed to make some magic happen.

 

[Skeet 028]

I don't really care for Hornady bullets. I do have a few but have a couple 1000 Rem and about the same amount of Noslers. Most I got in estates/auctions yard sales and gun shows. None cost more than 10 dollars a box but I still load cast bullets. I also use a fair amount of Herco powder as I bought 2 8 pound jugs for 40 bucks each(pre pandemic). Just slightly slower than Unique and it works with both cast and jacketed very well. I do like the Rem 125s in the 357 N frames... my Blackhawk does not like 125s. I mostly shoot 38s in it and my 19 and 66s. I just bought an older somewhat blue worn but tight 4 inch Python. I'm going to have to see what it likes. Been working on buying the darn thing over a year. It will get a diet of 158 jacketed I think

 

[Greenjoytj]

With H110 Load data is all over the map. Folks say lots of flash and boom, very powerful.

H110 is the fuel to get the 357 Mag up to maximum velocity.
But it comes at a price, and that is the big flash and boom and a considerable amount of powder is still burning and making increased pressure right to the muzzle. After which is just a light show and a hyper sonic thunder clap. Which is not for everyone, especially as an often used load for paper targets. More useful as a last shot or two to wake up the guy shooting in the next stall for s**ts an giggles.

Keep the space under the seated bullet filled to minimum 75% full of powder.
H110 is a very slow burning handgun powder.
Its a ball powder that has the granules coated with a lot of flame retardant to slow the burn, that’s why mag primers are specifically called for when loading H110 but their a waste for flake powder like Universal.
Ball powders are hard to light due to the granules spherical shape. (think round log in a fire place, it doesn't catch fire as easily as a split piece that has lots of edges)

The deterrent coating(s) (it could be in layers) also makes H110 difficult to keep lit particularly if reduced below 75% fill space.
Because the granules get scattered in the empty expansion space and the burn of individual granules can't mutually support other granules to light up. The deterrent coating fights against continued combustion unless the pressure can be kept up high.

Smokeless powder needs high pressure to be smokeless and have reduce fouling (efficient). Witness the complaints of shooters seeing dirty powder fouling in low pressure cartridges, particularly if used with a reduced load of a mid range powder.

The max powder charges are all over in manuals because I don't believe you can kaBoom a 357 Mag with H110. The powder is too slow burning and just can't make kaboom level pressure. Worst case scenario is stuck cases. A max load (any manual) may stick a case in your revolver but not in another guys.
After all, H110 loads in manuals have been pressure tested in SAAMI minimum specification pressure gun chamber & barrel so your handloads will operate at a little less pressure in your off the shelf firearm.