Calipers
- Thread starter hsc
- Start date
I agree. Don't buy junk. Pawn shops often have used dial
calipers from quality manufacturers like Starrett at decent
prices.
Bkreutz
US Veteran
I have all 3, Vernier, dial and digital. I find that the only one I can see reliably is the digital (this getting old thing is getting old
)
)
There are those who advocate buying plastic or metal cheapies from Harbor Freight because "close enough".
I prefer the Starrett 1202 or Mitutoyo 505, because "accuracy".
As with any precision instrument, you must be careful with them.
I prefer the Starrett 1202 or Mitutoyo 505, because "accuracy".
As with any precision instrument, you must be careful with them.
Last edited:
MichiganScott
Member
Dial. Although all my micrometers are top quality and mostly pre-WWII, I buy cheap Frankford Arsenal calipers. I've found that if they are dropped on a hard floor, the dial jumps so the zero is somewhere other than straight up. It hurts less to replace them when they cost $22. I'd hate to spend $200 on Starrett and find the same thing.
Over the years as a Mercedes-Benz mechanic and rebuilder I've accumulated a Helios, a Mitutoyo and a Starrett caliper along with a digital something or another.
One day I started measuring drill shanks with all four calipers and a very accurate ten thou Helios micrometer. The el cheapo digital was consistently the most accurate in the ranges I measure, go figure, and that's what I go for first.
Stu
One day I started measuring drill shanks with all four calipers and a very accurate ten thou Helios micrometer. The el cheapo digital was consistently the most accurate in the ranges I measure, go figure, and that's what I go for first.
Stu
Clovishound
Member
Well, I have a set of the HF dial calipers. Bought it for about $15 several years ago. They will hit the floor eventually.
I have measured a bunch of stuff with them, and compared them with other calipers.
They have always been accurate to the nearest .001.
I have seen the exact same calipers on sale at other far more respected vendors. Usually the price is 2 to 3 times what the HF set runs.
As to dial vs digital, I recommend dial. No batteries to die, or electronics to fail.
I have measured a bunch of stuff with them, and compared them with other calipers.
They have always been accurate to the nearest .001.
I have seen the exact same calipers on sale at other far more respected vendors. Usually the price is 2 to 3 times what the HF set runs.
As to dial vs digital, I recommend dial. No batteries to die, or electronics to fail.
MDMarauder
Member
Buy quality, I like my Brown & Sharpe.
scooter123
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I have had Starrett dial, Mititoyo digital, and the cheap Harbor Freight digital. The Starrett's are a real classic and easy to misread at a quick glance, so they stay in that lovely red box in my closet as a reminder of my youth. The Mititoyo are kept at work with a second on my reloading bench. The Harbor Freight I keep next to my computer and get used when I need a quick measurement. People like to trash Harbor Freight but IMO you get a good value for the money and tho their calibers may have a feel that is rough they are actually accurate.
Basically, if you need something cheap get the Harbor Freight digitals. While the slide is distinctly on the rough side they are accurate and cheap. About the only negative is you do have to remember to zero them but that's a common requirement for digital calipers.
Basically, if you need something cheap get the Harbor Freight digitals. While the slide is distinctly on the rough side they are accurate and cheap. About the only negative is you do have to remember to zero them but that's a common requirement for digital calipers.
Seeing as I'm using it for reloading, not building trigger assemblies for nuclear weapons or rockets for going to Mars, I've found that the $9.99 digital Harbor Freight model works fine. I'd say give it a try--make sure you get the .001 version, not the .01--and if it doesn't work out, you've only spent $9.99.
+1.
For reloading the harbor freight calipers work great. Digital or dial is a preference thing. I don't mind buying batteries for the digitals.
If you have a need for .0001 accuracy look into a micrometer set.
mkk41
US Veteran
As a toolmaker , I always bought Brown & Sharpe dial calipers. Got a new pair every few years as they do get dropped and the jaw points get smashed. My old ones got used for reloading , garage/motor work or given away.
My company now issues calibrated/certified digital calipers.The cheap Chinese cals that Harbor Freight sells for $9.99 w/coupon seem to be the same ones Midway , Frankford , and others are selling for $29.99. As some said , they're not as smooth as more expensive ones , but they are accurate within .0005". They even come with 2 batteries!
My company now issues calibrated/certified digital calipers.The cheap Chinese cals that Harbor Freight sells for $9.99 w/coupon seem to be the same ones Midway , Frankford , and others are selling for $29.99. As some said , they're not as smooth as more expensive ones , but they are accurate within .0005". They even come with 2 batteries!
JonF
Member
At Lowes, digital for $22.00 dead on measured against my check block. Plus you get an extra battery and a pretty sturdy case.
I've been loading match .308 rounds the last 2 weeks and use a Harbor Freight digital that cost me less than $15 more than 2 years ago. I have 2 "control" cartridges with an OAL of 2.80" that I use to check about every 5th one I load. Every single time, it registers exactly 2.80".
What I did discover is that the most recent new, unopened box of Hornady 168 gr. BTHP National Match projectiles are not consistent in their length, mostly due to differences in their point profiles.
Ed
What I did discover is that the most recent new, unopened box of Hornady 168 gr. BTHP National Match projectiles are not consistent in their length, mostly due to differences in their point profiles.
Ed
H Richard
US Veteran
I used dial for 25 years, then when Midway had a special on S&W brand digital for $15 a couple years ago I bought them (for the name). I checked them against my dial several times at several measurements, and they are identical. The digital are easier to use and as accurate as the dial.
For over 50 years I have used dial type calipers. For some reason I favor the dial type. Just old school I guess.
Dial calipers are nice, if you'll never get them dirty, drop them, or plan on replacing them as the gears wear out. The cheaper ones are nice in that there is enough play in the gear that it can skip a few teeth if you run it out a couple inches quickly.
I have a pair of Sherr-Tumico verniers for at home, and Mitutoyo digimatics for work. I've checked both against jo blocks and both are dead on through the entire range. Both are water proof and just need wiped down from time to time. Neither will skip a gear, because neither have any gears to skip. They both will read in inch and metric, though the verniers have the metric scale on the back side so you nearly need to be a lefty to read it in metric.
I'm a tool maker too, and use my Digimatics daily on the mill, lathe or at the press.
Scott
I have a pair of Sherr-Tumico verniers for at home, and Mitutoyo digimatics for work. I've checked both against jo blocks and both are dead on through the entire range. Both are water proof and just need wiped down from time to time. Neither will skip a gear, because neither have any gears to skip. They both will read in inch and metric, though the verniers have the metric scale on the back side so you nearly need to be a lefty to read it in metric.
I'm a tool maker too, and use my Digimatics daily on the mill, lathe or at the press.
Scott
rockquarry
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I've never seen a reason to go to digital models. I use calipers and micrometers a lot. Several years ago, I bought a new Brown & Sharpe dial caliper. Based on a sample of only one, I can tell no difference in use between it and a much cheaper model sold by Lee. A Craftsman dial caliper also worked as well as the B&S.
JohnK
US Veteran
Still using a dial Mitotoya (sp ?) that I bought nearly 50 years ago.
That rascal cost $ 50 then, quite an expenditure for a broke kid.
Glad I bit the bullet, they've been great.
That rascal cost $ 50 then, quite an expenditure for a broke kid.
Glad I bit the bullet, they've been great.
mkk41
US Veteran
I've still got a few pr of Starrett No.123 Master Vernier Calipers. Started out with verniers. Probably why my eyes are so screwed up.
dazlin
Member
Dial. Mine are Mitutoyo, mid 80's.
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BlueOvalBandit
Member
That's pretty normal. Tips are pretty inconsistent and why they make meplate uniformers and trimmers. If you want accurate readings you need to measure off the ogive, it is the only way.
In terms of cheap tools the vast majority are accurate enough to get the job done, even if its off 0.001" it isn't going to make a difference, your press will give bigger variances. What matters more is that they know how to use it correctly. You can give someone nice Starretts and another a HF and if the person with the starretts doesnt know what they're doing they'll be further off than the HF guy.
I use inexpensive calipers and the best micrometer I can afford.
Ben_hutcherson
Member
I've never put much faith in any calipers, and tend to buy cheap ones. My preference is for verniers.
Micrometers are a different story, and as a watchmaker I they are my go-to measuring tool. My favorite and most-used micrometer is a bench model "Watchcraft" brand. Watchcraft was a private label for C&E Marshall out of Chicago-I'm not sure who made it for Marshall, but they always carried premium quality tools. I also use handheld Starrett micrometers for more routine(and on the lathe) work.
Micrometers are a different story, and as a watchmaker I they are my go-to measuring tool. My favorite and most-used micrometer is a bench model "Watchcraft" brand. Watchcraft was a private label for C&E Marshall out of Chicago-I'm not sure who made it for Marshall, but they always carried premium quality tools. I also use handheld Starrett micrometers for more routine(and on the lathe) work.
mkk41
US Veteran
I use mics mainly on the lathe and surface/ID/OD grinders. I have mics made by Etalon , Starrett , Lufkin , Brown & Sharpe.
I have a boxed set of 6 metric mics made in Poland by VIS. Carbide faces , ground thread , really nice mics.
