Can anyone assist me w/ a submersible well pump question?

USAF385

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Once again I find myself turning to the forum for some sage advice! :)

I suddenly found myself needing to replace my well pump today. It's definitely the pump (or possibly the wiring down at the pump) and nothing inside... I metered it out all the way out to the well and have voltage. The pressure switch is calling but the pump isn't kicking on.

My question is on sizing the pump. I need a 2 wire 230 volt submersible well pump for a two bathroom house. It's a 200ft well but the pumps at 150ft. I'm wondering what HP I need and how many gallons per minute.

Thanks!
-Ski
 
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I used google and it helped me get an answer, but I've been burned by the internet in the past and was hoping for some extra input.
 
Are you sure it's the pump and not a drop in the water level? Could be your pump is no longer submersed. You should check the water level in the well before you buy a new pump.
 
At the ranch, they have plastic pipe hooked to the pump and when the pump quit working I took a new one down to replace it. When I pulled the old one I'd found that everytime the pump would kick on, it would torque inside the well casing and the insulation on one of the wires rubbed off on the casing and shorted out. Spliced the wires and used heat shrink protectors to cover the splice and we were back in business. Returned the new pump and put a few hundred back in the pocket. The water was still crappy but it was wet.
 
At the ranch, they have plastic pipe hooked to the pump and when the pump quit working I took a new one down to replace it. When I pulled the old one I'd found that everytime the pump would kick on, it would torque inside the well casing and the insulation on one of the wires rubbed off on the casing and shorted out. Spliced the wires and used heat shrink protectors to cover the splice and we were back in business. Returned the new pump and put a few hundred back in the pocket. The water was still crappy but it was wet.
I'm hoping this is the case. I've often wondered about how well the heat seal works and this could be the case for me.
 
My 2 hp pool pump stopped working a couple weeks ago. Just made a buzzing sound when I turned the pump on.

Turned out to be the run capacitor. About $20 from the local motor shop.

Good luck.
 
Have you had a pump man out, the capacitor to start the motor is on top in your box, some times they go bad mine did one time. Jeff
 
I am not a well driller but I do own 17 rental houses...all on drilled wells that I had drilled. I have had to go back and repair several over the years. I also own a hunting cabin in Rockbridge Co. Va. That just cost me $26,000.00 to have drilled {900ft deep} so I know a little about drilling in the mountains. First I would say this, in regards to a replacement pump I always get the 1 1/2 horsepower pump. I also always install the 40/60 PSI control switch{not the 30/50.} It is also best if you have the biggest bottle or bladder tank that you have room for.

All that aside, depending on where in Pa. you live {mountains??} It is very likely you may have the water below the pump. It's a whole different ball game when you are drilling wells in rock. Unlike where I live in So. Md. where we have three different aquifers underground. Here you can drill anywhere you want and hit one of three underground rivers that never run low on water. It's kinda like sticking a pump in the Chesapeake Bay...the only way you wont have water is no electric or a burned up pump. So if you are somewhere in Pa. with an aquifer {underground river} it is probably not the water level in your well. That said, 200 ft is not very deep for a drilled well unless it is in the mountains or solid rock. As above, different ball game...in this case you drill hoping to hit cracks and fissures in the rock that contain water. The catch is you generally wont have alot of volume. Being up on a mountain top has nothing to do with how deep the well has to be drilled, it is strickly a matter of where the water is. My well at the cabin is 900 ft {bad luck for me} the next closest well on the same mountain about 1/4 of a mile away is less than 150ft and he has plenty of water. I think in Va. it has to make 450 gallons a day to be a certified usable well and mine just squeeked by. No filling swimming pools for me, but the neighbors will almost make that amount in an hour. He got lucky and hit a big crack filled with water. All this goes to your questin about gallons per minute, the pump is fixed but the well may or may not supply that much water for you depending on again where you are. I looked for land in Pa. earlier this year for a cabin/hunting spot and they have alot of trouble getting good water taste wise. Many people in the areas I looked tried to drill a well but ended up installing a cistern instead.

One of my rentals had a pump quit earlier this year and it read voltage out to the casing just like yours. The well driller installed two differet pumps and finally said "all these pumps cannot be defective." It proved to be a wire staple driven too tight under the crawlspace that finally broke the wire. It read voltage because the wires still touched but the necessary amps wouldn't go through. In your case it is probably just the pump. They seem to last about 10-15 years or so but like anything subject to puke at any time. As above if it is hung on flex tubing you can pull it and change the pump yourself, if not {at only 200 ft I dont know why it wouldn't be unless it is a old, 20 plus years old well} Call the driller. I have spent so much money in the last 8 years on wells I should have just bought a rig!! Good luck.
 
Hi USAF385!

There is a bit more information needed before I could give you a qualified answer. Pump sizing is determined by answering some of the folowing questions:

Static water level?
Yield of the well? (gpm)
GPM required (or desired) for your household?
Is there a significant distance between the well and the house?
Is there a significant elevation change between the well and the house?
Do you have a geo-thermal HVAC system or lawn irrigation?
Etc.

As to horsepower; a 3/4 hp motor would be common for a pumping depth of 150 feet in a typical residential application. However, one should still know the above information. There are many variables when it comes to properly sizing a submersible well pump.

Although well-intentioned, some of the advice you have been given is a bit off the mark and does not follow industry standards.

My advice would be to hire a reputable well drilling firm for proper diagnosis.

If you would like, I'd be glad to try and help via e-mail or phone.

Beemer1969 - at - tds.net

George
20-year Service Technician
Residential / Commercial Drilling Firm
 
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A word of caution:

For those who tackle submersible pump replacement on their own, please be familiar with the type of pitless adapter in your well and how it functions.

Certain pitless adapters such as 'Snappy' and 'Aqua Seal' can be nothing short of dangerous, if the pump and drop pipe are not properly supported before release. Even experienced pump installers have lost fingers and/or been seriously injured by these adapters.
 
Regardless of whatever problems you find when you remove the pump from the well, make sure it gets properly reinstalled. Wire and pipe chaffing problems can be eliminated by installing a rubber "torque arrester' on the pipe just above the pump, and installing plastic "spiders" every few feet on the pipe. This keeps the pipe and electrical wire centered in the well casing and won't allow the plastic pipe and/or pump, to "whip" against the pipe from the starting torque. Even a 3/4 HP motor has a rather violent starting torque. Use new wiring that is approved for underwater use, and use new waterproof splice kits, and follow the instructions to the letter.
 
Although well-intentioned, some of the advice you have been given is a bit off the mark and does not follow industry standards.

My advice would be to hire a reputable well drilling firm for proper diagnosis.

If you would like, I'd be glad to try and help via e-mail or phone.

Beemer1969 - at - tds.net

George
20-year Service Technician
Residential / Commercial Drilling Firm

Best advice given by someone who knows what he's talkin' about.
thumbsup.gif
 
+1 on the last two post...the deeper the well the more support or hold you need on the pump when you release it. If the well is deep then the pump assembly as hung is going to be heavy...but that should not be the case for you as you say the well is only 200 ft with a 150 ft pump assembly. Still wont be any fun for one person, this is definately a time when you want help. If you need/want to drop the pump closer to the bottom I have always been told {and paid for} new wire and pipe so there are no splices. You really want the only connection to be at the pump itself and at the top of the well. The "spiders" referenced above sure sound like a good idea but no drillers around here install them and nobodys well is ripping the pump wires or pipe loose due to start up torque. Definately sounds like it should be more of a concern but I have seen many pump assemblies dropped down the liner with nothing done to address this possible issue and no problems noted later...maybe I am missing something, wouldn't be the first time!!!
Bottom line for you is, you dont have water. It's likely the pump and if so and you had no complaints about the way it worked before then just replace the same size you had and go back with everything the same. If you want more pressure/volume go up in horsepower and higher on the control switch. Not really rocket science even though some would make it out like that. One thing about wells I am an expert on, you can throw all the brains at it you want but until you throw some money at it, you wont have water.
 
Best advice given by someone who knows what he's talkin' about.
thumbsup.gif

I was waiting for George to chime in.;)

I have a little exp. with submersible pumps but not what your looking for so I stayed out of this one.My specialty is the filtration end of it.Water softeners and such.

Cheers Ski and thanks George.
 
If the wiring is correctly attached to the piping, then there should not be a problem with torgueing, it all moves together. The torqueing if not controlled can cause the pipe to crack or break. Had one drilled well, 450 ft, that developed a cracked joint after about a year, it was the stick pipe with a male/female end glued on. Pump was running, it was just pumping the water out about half way to the surface. When they pulled the pump out, there were no torque arrestors. When I pointed it out, the installer turned red and said "no charge" to me. Can't repeat what he said to the guy who actually was in charge of installing the pump. Had em drop the pump a couple extra sticks of pipe while it was out.As already mentioned just replace with same size pump if it was adequate. Good luck.
 
Thanks for the vote of confidence, guys.

Like each of you, I have spent many years striving to be knowledgable in my chosen career field.
 
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