Can this 64-5 be salvaged?

[Gudou]

Hello everyone. I have recently come into possession of the below model 64-5. It has plenty of rust, grime, and scratches, but mechanically seems to be fine per to my novice eyes following the steps in this video:

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=95xjizDOrcc"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=95xjizDOrcc[/ame]

The double action trigger pull in particular is incredibly smooth and fun to dry fire.

Given that the mechanical condition appears to be okay, my question is can the cosmetic issues be rectified and if so, how?

My only experience with removing rust was from an old axe head I found buried in my garden. I submerged it for a few days in white viengar and then washed it and coated it in baking soda. After several more washes I applied some WD-40 specialist corrosion inhibitor and since then it has looked and functioned perfectly.

Have any of you restored a stainless revolver such as this model 64-5? What techniques and products did you use?

Also, if anyone has any information about the manufacturing date of this firearm I would appreciate it. The serial number starts with BNW7.

Thank you everyone.

 

[VictorLouis]

THAT is one that would be worth spending the money to send off to the Mother-Ship...
Good luck with her!

 

[Vtgw938]

I would strip it down and give it a bath in Metal Rescue for a day or two, occasionally taking it out to brush an pick at the rust. It will remove all traces of rust. Metal Rescue will remove bluing and flash chrome but you might be better off with no rust and no flash chrome. I would than take some grey scoth-brite pads to it to give it a brushed finish.

 

[AudieMurphy]

I think gun buy back would bring a gift certificate for $100-$150

 

[Bald1]

As mentioned maybe send it to S&W for bead blasting. Or take a stab at it yourself with a harbor freight blaster

 

[Jeep 1]

If that was mine, I would completely clean and scrub that gun down. then I would find somebody that has a good bead blasting cabinet. I was seal the end of the barrel with all the internals removed. Reinstall the side plate I would tape up any flat surfaces inside that need to be and be blasted as consistently as possible. I have done many AR barrels that way and they turn out looking very nice and that way, you don’t have much money tied up in a marginal project. You may need to replace some of the internals, if you do generally you can find them on eBay
It will make a fun project for you
Tom

 

[murphydog]

There is a solution you can make up named Ed’s Red. It is safe for blued guns so it is fine for stainless as well. Soak it for a few days and much of the rust will be gone or easily removed.

If it works well mechanically, after this you have all sorts of refinishing options. If you are handy you can get close to a factory finish using Scotchbrite pads, all the way to sending it back to the factory or a gunsmith for bead blasting.

 

[StrawHat]

That is definitely worth some time and effort to restore. A variety of Scotch Brite pads will make it shine! Just stop when it is the finish you want.

I am not sure it warrants a trip to S&W for something this simple but, they would replace parts that need it.

Kevin

 

[The Kid]

A gray Scotchbrite pad and a little bit of effort will have it looking pretty good in a short time.

You need to disassemble it to get all the nooks and crannies. A copper toothbrush will be a big help to get in all the little corners. A ball of 0000 steel wool and a squirt of oil will take the rust off the hammer and such with minimal scrubbing.

When you get it all cleaned up and you’re ready to get the outside into shape make sure you have the sideplate on and use the scotchbrite pad to polish making sure to go in one direction. Generally it’s easier to get a uniform polish by going longways with the barrel. A scotchbrite pad isn’t going to remove any metal other than maybe microscopically so you aren’t going to make it any worse or ruin anything.

Should be a good afternoon project.

 

[H Richard]

You have been given several good recommendations, but before I would consider any kind of refinishing I would check out all the mechanical limitations for safety and functionality. Does it function within factory spec's? Make sure it is safe before spending any more time and money on it. If it doesn't meet spec's you may want to consider a trip back to
S&W, but the cost may make it not worth it to you. If you are capable of doing the repair work yourself, you are one step ahead.

 

[silicosys4]

I picked up a surplus no dash M67 not too long ago. It wasn't that bad but it was pretty beat up.
The rust I'd scrub off with a copper brush and gun oil,
then I'd take a green scotchbrite pad to the gun. I haven't seen a stainless gun rust to the point of pitting, so a couple of hours of cosmetic work should have it looking good again.

This is before and after, I stopped with the green pad as a higher polish would only highlight the various dents and dings the gun accumulated after 50+ years of service

 

[PatriotX]

I have salvaged worse, it can be done with a bit of effort.

I’d start with a brass brush and some Ballistol, then a trip through the ultrasonic cleaner with Dawn and a bit of Lemi-Shine.

A reasonable finish can be put back on the gun with grey Scotchbrite pads when ready.

Good luck

 

[Sevens]

I believe this revolver dates to early 1993.

 

[lkabug]

It can be saved DIY. Good suggestions given above. Ed's Red is very useful for clean. The scratches will take some work, but doable.

 

[bigmoose]

Stainless guns can be a bit easier to bring back to factory fresh than blued guns if the right steps are used. All techniques above are good ones. I would add that judging by the photos, you are gonna need to start with some more aggressive abrasives to get rid of the deep scratches and dings. Otherwise you will end up with a shiny, scratched, dinged up gun.
1. Completely disassemble.
2. Start with 400 grit paper. If scratches etc aren’t removed, go to 320. Maybe even 220. If you aren't removing metal, you aren’t getting rid of the deep scratches. Use a small sanding block for flat areas. Do not use a lot of pressure. Let the abrasive do the work.
Avoid sanding the roll marked areas just yet.
3. Work your way up to 600 grit. Each time you switch grits, sand in opposite direction.
4. When attacking area of right side plate, the side plate must be installed to keep that flat, flush seam. Avoid flattening any protruding screws.
5. Then switch to scotbrite pads/ polishing compound etc to get desired sheen. A soft wire wheel at this stage may be your friend. Results vary depending on rpm, wire gauge, and skill.
I would start with the backstrap or maybe the cylinder, as these areas are a bit more forgiving while you get the hang of it. Do not switch to a finer grit until all scratches from previous grit have disappeared..for example…if currently using 320 grit, do not step up to 400 until the 320 grit has effectively removed the scratches caused by the 220 grit. You will be amazed how good it starts to look once you get at and beyond 400 grit.
Good luck.

 

[stansdds]

It's not like blued or nickel plated carbon steel, stainless is far easier to rescue. You may find some pitting, so a highly polished surface may not be the best idea, but after a really good cleaning, you can use gray Scotchbrite pads to restore it to a finish that is remarkably close to original. Alternatively, if you have access to a media blaster, you could have it glass bead blasted.

 

[rct269]

I dare say pretty much any automotive machine shop is equipped with a glass bead peening outfit---and can clean/"refinish" that in short order.

Given that they likely use their equipment simply to clean parts, their end result may not look like new---as the finish may very well not be uniform. The good news is their end result isn't THE end result, because you can do it again--and again---and again---ad nauseam. The end result depends on bead size (and you're likely stuck with what they have), line pressure, angle of attack, and the distance from the nozzle to the work piece. Uniformity is your friend. The lack of same is your enemy!

Uniformity is more likely to be had from a gunsmith with the equipment----he's "been there and done that", and knows what you're after. Your best friend (other than the gunsmith) is someone who'll let you use their equipment.

If it was me, I'd send the gun off to one of the gun refinishing outfits that do stainless finishes.

Ralph Tremaine

 

[LVSteve]

As a milsurp guy who leaves the finish alone as much as possible, I'd clean the bore, slap on some grips, and take it to the range to see if it shoots before doing anything else. I might be the outlier of the group, though.

 

[ColbyBruce]

If you choose to bead blast your S&W, use a combination of fine beads and low P.S.I. Stuff the ends of the barrel and chambers to prevent direct blasts down inside. Use a bore brush on a cordless drill to clean the bore and chambers.

Here are a few pictures of a Ruger Service Six I bead blasted some years ago and two S&W 65-3’s that developed pitting from wearing Hogue stocks and not being properly maintained.

 

[kaaskop49]

I think gun buy back would bring a gift certificate for $100-$150

NEVER! This 4" HB 10/64 fan thinks this gun is absolutely beautiful in its present condition and can only be made better. Guess this shows that I've carried these guns over the years.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

P.S. BTW, am completely opposed to buybacks.