Can you make this stainless L frame look like this stainless L frame?

[Brendon]

Man, I HATE the bead blast finish. Been thinking of getting a new cheap J-frame revolver to go along with my N-Frame 625 .45ACP. And they all are bead blast unless you get the pricier $800 versions that have a satin brushed finish.

 

[45Wheelgun]

686-4 Silhouette

This was a distressed nickel gun, but the process is the same. Detailed Instructions inside.

Rehabilitating a Nickel Model 36 - Finished 11/21

Before:

After:

 

[Stopsign32v]

Guys I can't help but think some of you are confused. This is a bead blasted SS gun, not a brushed aluminum or dirty nickel gun that needs a spit shine with a rag to bring it out. I've done a brushed stainless 686 with a Tshirt and Mag polish. This is not going to work on bead blasted.

 

[Walkingwolf]

Not sure why not, the process is the same. Taking metal off to smooth the finish.

Personally I like my Smiths, but I won't spend that kind of money for a cheap bead blast finish. There was two reasons I bought a PC 625, instead of a JM 625. I don't like full lugs, and that cheap bead blast.

As far as tactical, IMO that is BS. I really don't care if the bad guy sees my gun or not. In fact if it will make him go away all the better.

I don't mind the bead blast on a Charter Arms, or a Taurus. Or might as well carry a plastic fantastic.

 

[Glashaus]

Stopsign, I see that you are over here too! I can't help you on the polishing, other then cleaning them up and shooting them I kind of leave my S&W's how I found them.

 

[Model39]

My Solution For A Nice Finish

I have a Model of 1988 45 acp revolver that had the dull matte finish on it. I checked with Smith&Wesson factory service and they do offer a change of finish on their stainless revolvers. Since I was going to send the revolver back anyway, I had them put RR, White Outline sights on it, and to finish it off had a Performance Center action job on the revolver. It was a bit pricey, but the revolver came out great. The value of Smith&Wesson revolvers can vary, so in my opinion it was best to have the factory do the work, and keep the invoice so as to show all work was factory service work.

 

[Stopsign32v]

Stopsign, I see that you are over here too! I can't help you on the polishing, other then cleaning them up and shooting them I kind of leave my S&W's how I found them.

Hey man, quit following me. Ahaha just kidding

I got a bit of everything, AKs, S&Ws, Colts, 1911s, etc etc so I'm all over the place! I'm a firearms *****.

 

[45Wheelgun]

Guys I can't help but think some of you are confused. This is a bead blasted SS gun, not a brushed aluminum or dirty nickel gun that needs a spit shine with a rag to bring it out. I've done a brushed stainless 686 with a Tshirt and Mag polish. This is not going to work on bead blasted.

Reading comprehension is critical - the process is the same - I've done it with every stainless finish that S&W has offered. I laid it out pretty clearly in both links I included.

Maybe a Dremel tool would be more up your alley?

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

 

[Brendon]

I had looked at getting a bead blasted S&W. I hate bead blasted finish and had asked S&W if they could polish it out with their polish service. But they said they can't polish a bead blast.

 

[Stopsign32v]

Reading comprehension is critical - the process is the same - I've done it with every stainless finish that S&W has offered. I laid it out pretty clearly in both links I included.

Maybe a Dremel tool would be more up your alley?

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

I agree reading comprehension is very critical, so I'll simplify.

Can you link me to where you have taken a bead blasted stainless steel revolver and used a rag with wheel polish, which you claim is all that is needed along with elbow grease, and polished it out to a bright polished stainless? Because all you have shown in 2 links is a brushed stainless gun to high polish and a hazy nickel to bright polish. Both jobs done well btw, but not the same thing at all to a bead blasted job.

The Dremel comment isn't needed either.

 

[45Wheelgun]

I didn't use wheel polish, I've used both simichrome and Flitz. I've heard mothers works as well, but I don't have any experience with it. The bead blasted gun was a 625. I'll have to search for pictures. It was before I owned this forum and I never put a thread up about it.

The process was the same, but frankly it was 20 years ago (or so) and I don't remember if it was more effort. It did turn out nice. The gun is long gone.

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[RV4driver]

You know, there are Scotchbrite wheels for a Dremel, right?
If you KNOW how to use one, and don't go all Medieval on it right out of the gate, a little finesse and restraint can give you a nice result.
Now, if you're the kind of guy that uses a Dremel like a die grinder...well, we can't help you. And I've had good results with Flitz, haven't tried Mother's. Again, baby steps.

 

[Stopsign32v]

I didn't use wheel polish, I've used both simichrome and Flitz. I've heard mothers works as well, but I don't have any experience with it. The bead blasted gun was a 625. I'll have to search for pictures. It was before I owned this forum and I never put a thread up about it.

The process was the same, but frankly it was 20 years ago (or so) and I don't remember if it was more effort. It did turn out nice. The gun is long gone.

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I would love to see pictures if you'd be willing. A polished 625 would be a heck of a gun to own!

If you wouldn't mind sharing a short step by step I'd appreciate it. Are we talking sandpaper involved or what?

 

[Stopsign32v]

You know, there are Scotchbrite wheels for a Dremel, right?
If you KNOW how to use one, and don't go all Medieval on it right out of the gate, a little finesse and restraint can give you a nice result.
Now, if you're the kind of guy that uses a Dremel like a die grinder...well, we can't help you. And I've had good results with Flitz, haven't tried Mother's. Again, baby steps.

I'd never have the balls to take a Dremel to a Smith. Even if it would go right, I'd probably screw it up. At least by hand I feel I have some type of control.

 

[edge357]

I used Mother's Mag Polish and a rag.
This 66-2 was a brushed SS finish when I purchased it.
I had a few marks on it. I decided to give it a bright finish.
You can see the S&W emblem is still very apparent.

[URL=http://s1196.photobucket.com/user/edgybob1/media/s%20and%20w%2066%202/pix954027801_zpsdb2y3y7z.jpg.html] [/URL]

 

[Brendon]

What's up with the photobucket photos not showing up on this site? I've seen it a few times here and there on other sites. Something about 3rd part hosting.

 

[45Wheelgun]

Like so many things prep is 70%+ of the effort. As outlined in my rehabilitation of a M36 thread, removing internals and separating the cylinder allows for a better final product. no hammer or trigger not only make it easier but protect those parts from damage. Polishing the frame without the cylinder help guarantee an even finish on the frame. Polishing the side plate 50% with screws in place and 50% without prevents dishing out of the holes while insuring the heads are polished to the same degree as the side plate.

I know I started with sandpaper on one of the bead blasted guns I've done, (Did a 66 as well) but I don't remember where I started. It was at a high grit and it wasn't due to the bead blast it was to repair preexisting damage. Pretty sure I did it on the corrosion on the 686 as well. Probably started at 800, maybe small localized areas at 600. Move to 1000, maybe to 1500 prior to going to polish. In no case was I using sandpaper on the entire gun. It was always just judiciously used as a repair tool.

I never have polished a gun that didn't already have a cosmetic issue.

Think what you want about dremel tools or buffing wheels, I've seen both used by people who knew what they were doing where the end product looks as good as a factory refinish.

What do you think the factory uses to get a high polish finish? (No not a dremel).

You have been offered a lot of great advice from multiple people, none of which you seem to care for. Maybe you have a better solution? Maybe you will come up with one. If you do I will be first in line to learn about it. You might consider learning from those who have done this and offer their experiences, rather than your preconceived ideas about what won't work. Several have offered you advice in this thread already. Almost everything I've given you in this post was covered in the two links I provided.

I still have my 66, but it's been a carry/glove box gun for a decade, it's the loaner i give to friends taking a CCW Class and may not show as well as it once did. I'll see if I can dig up an old picture of it. In reality pictures are irrelevant, either I did it or I didn't. If I didn't do it, I'm just a blow hard internet warrior. Around here most people take me for my word.

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[Stopsign32v]

What's up with the photobucket photos not showing up on this site? I've seen it a few times here and there on other sites. Something about 3rd part hosting.

Photobucket went crazy and decided to hold everyones' pictures hostage unless they decided to pay Photobucket.

In short, its best to find another site to host your pictures. I use Flikr, they are free, and allow a lot better quality pictures.

 

[45Wheelgun]

What's up with the photobucket photos not showing up on this site? I've seen it a few times here and there on other sites. Something about 3rd part hosting.

Photobucket want you to pay them $400/year to do what they used to do for free. Started around July 1st.

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[Stopsign32v]

Well it is possible. This is exactly what I want to do on the right hand side, but all over the gun. Even exactly the gun I want to do it to.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=42oN5-TsQnY[/ame]