If the original barrel was lined with the liner soft soldered into place, then just heating it to melt the solder (around 400/450F) and then tap the liner out. That was the most common way of fitting them till epoxy and locktite came into use. Silversolder is hardly ever used (1000F+).
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Once in a while some well intending gunsmith will cross pin the liner into place for a little extra strength. I've even seen a blind set screw on a couple.
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A 38special liner could be turned to fit into a 44 bore w/o doing anything to enlarge the original 44 bore. It would be thin walled, but probably OK and a cheap way to do it. Aside from solder clean up once the liner is out and assuming there are no cross pins, set screws, you'd have your 44 barrel back. But no guarentees on what it's original condition was before it was lined.
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Relining a 44 or 45 barrel isn't too good of an idea. The liner wall thickness remains awfully thin.
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Either sleeve it, using the original barrel as nothing more than a covering over a new straight barrel tube which includes it's own threads and will stand on it's own as far as strength goes. The old barrel 'sleeve' provides the original contour and markings, sight, etc. It can be soft soldered or even epoxyed into place.
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Or a second generation barrel is a good idea too as Hondo44 says, remarking the top to the first generation 2 line address. Even a 4 3/4" second generation barrel will have a one line barrel address on top IIRC and would need changing.
The left side barrel marking should be removed also (Single Action Army 44 Special) and just the caliber marking '44Special' be present (Some 1st gen guns were marked 44 Russian and S&W Special).
The front sight on the first generation guns is a slightly different contour and thickness than the second generation guns also. That can be taken care of while the barrel is cut, polished and re-marked.
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