andyo5
Member
Bob, Were those rounds shot offhand or using some kind of support?
Cannot get barrel totally clean
- Thread starter Bob O
- Start date
Bob, Were those rounds shot offhand or using some kind of support?
This was shot with a two-handed grip while standing. No support, barricade or rest of any kind.
I'm going to head to the LGS shortly for some bore cleaner and see if I can get that **** out of there.....it just bugs me.
I'm going to head to the LGS shortly for some bore cleaner and see if I can get that **** out of there.....it just bugs me.
Okay, here is a pic of the barrel before today's cleaning. Below that is a pic of the cleaner I got at the LGS. They had Hoppe's Copper Cleaner in a small bottle, but I opted for this foam.
I used a new bronze brush, a SS tornado type brush, and a brass jag. I let it soak for the recommended time and cleaaned it. When the crust was still there, I repeated the procedure. The first time I got the blue color, so obviously there was some copper in there. But the second time I got no blue.
I tried the regular Hoppe's #9, and then swabbed with patches, and got some black residue out and continued that until it came clean. From the last pic, it appears that the caked build-up is not as heavy. I feel confident in saying that some of it has been removed.
However, at this point I don't think that what remains is copper. It appears to be a carbon/powder build-up....I don't know for sure. It appears pretty black colored.
Sorry for the lighting, but I had to use a flashlight instead sunlight, and it was more difficult to get a good pic.
At this point, I'm going to leave it as-is and shoot it this weekend. I'll clean it after that and see if it comes out. I'm going to order some Sweet's 7.62 and see if that gets the rest of it out of there.
Actually, I might pick up some Seafoam at the automotive store tomorrow and try soaking in that.
I used a new bronze brush, a SS tornado type brush, and a brass jag. I let it soak for the recommended time and cleaaned it. When the crust was still there, I repeated the procedure. The first time I got the blue color, so obviously there was some copper in there. But the second time I got no blue.
I tried the regular Hoppe's #9, and then swabbed with patches, and got some black residue out and continued that until it came clean. From the last pic, it appears that the caked build-up is not as heavy. I feel confident in saying that some of it has been removed.
However, at this point I don't think that what remains is copper. It appears to be a carbon/powder build-up....I don't know for sure. It appears pretty black colored.
Sorry for the lighting, but I had to use a flashlight instead sunlight, and it was more difficult to get a good pic.
At this point, I'm going to leave it as-is and shoot it this weekend. I'll clean it after that and see if it comes out. I'm going to order some Sweet's 7.62 and see if that gets the rest of it out of there.
Actually, I might pick up some Seafoam at the automotive store tomorrow and try soaking in that.
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oldRoger
US Veteran
I have a P220 which I broke in with 400 rounds of Hard Ball; the barrel did not look like that and showed no sign of copper.
I am a curious guy, if my barrel had anything like that especially starting back from the muzzle, I would take a dental pick and dislodge a bit of that material to take a closer look. It certainly looks more like carbon fouling to me, but carbon fouling would have gone long ago.
I use Sweets 7.62 on my rifles and it works in short order. The normal way to apply it is with a wet patch wrapped around a bronze brush. Somehow though; I find that not looking much like copper to me.
Even shooting a lot of FMJ as I do in 9mm, I seldom get any blue traces using bore cleaner in pistols.
I am a curious guy, if my barrel had anything like that especially starting back from the muzzle, I would take a dental pick and dislodge a bit of that material to take a closer look. It certainly looks more like carbon fouling to me, but carbon fouling would have gone long ago.
I use Sweets 7.62 on my rifles and it works in short order. The normal way to apply it is with a wet patch wrapped around a bronze brush. Somehow though; I find that not looking much like copper to me.
Even shooting a lot of FMJ as I do in 9mm, I seldom get any blue traces using bore cleaner in pistols.
BigBill
Absent Comrade
The original USGI RIFLE BORE CLEANER do not breathe fumes.
andyo5
Member
Bob, The first photo clearly shows copper. The last one, not so much. Looks like you got the copper. That being the case, I doubt that Sweets would be much help. But it is a really great copper remover. Since it contains ammonia, it is unsuitable for some specially treated bores (like the one on my S&W M&P rifle) and should be removed after 10 minutes or so. No soaking overnight. The bottle has instructions on it. Good luck.
BTW, great looking target!
BTW, great looking target!
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LVSteve
Member
That almost looks like the caked on black sludge you find in engines. I'm thinking there was some stubborn oil or grease in there when you shot the gun and the heat has baked it on there. I know you cleaned the gun before shooting it, but some of those preservative greases and oils hang on like bubble gum on shag pile.
keithherrington
Member
Brownells Double Tuff Bore brushes and Sweets
It looks like carbon buildup, not copper. I'd start with Hoppes #9 using a Brownell's Double Tuff bore brush. I'd stay away from steel wool, stainless brushes and any other type of harsh method for now. After the Double Tuffs get what they can out, then I'd try Sweet's 7.62 Bore Cleaner and follow the directions to the letter, especially not leaving it in the bore for longer than 15 minutes. In fact, don't let it dry in the bore. If it's carbon fouling, it will not resist coming out.
Keith
It looks like carbon buildup, not copper. I'd start with Hoppes #9 using a Brownell's Double Tuff bore brush. I'd stay away from steel wool, stainless brushes and any other type of harsh method for now. After the Double Tuffs get what they can out, then I'd try Sweet's 7.62 Bore Cleaner and follow the directions to the letter, especially not leaving it in the bore for longer than 15 minutes. In fact, don't let it dry in the bore. If it's carbon fouling, it will not resist coming out.
Keith
Freischütz
Member
Sometimes small amounts of lead fouling get in a bore. The bore looks good, but no matter how many times you clean the bore, patches come out very slightly dirty. One of the lead removal techniques solves the problem.
Maybe it's just me but that barrel looks like it has rather rough machining in it. You shouldn't be having that much trouble cleaning it.
All of the recommended cleaners should have worked.
All of the recommended cleaners should have worked.
JaPes
Member
Yup. I cut it with hot water to use as an ultrasonic cleaning solution. No aluminum parts. Pop in parts, start machine, walk away.
andyo5
Member
Damn....I don't have a machine.
Well, just buy one and let us know how well it works!
BigBill
Absent Comrade
Pull a bullet your shooting to see if the rear of the bullet is sealed copper jacket or open lead. That's the only thing I can think of is its lead in the grooves.
Make sure you don't use a steel brush or a coated steel brush. Too much brushing will wear the square corners off the rifling.
Make sure you don't use a steel brush or a coated steel brush. Too much brushing will wear the square corners off the rifling.
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oldRoger
US Veteran
I have an ultrasonic cleaner; it really does a job removing old oil and crud from something like a trigger group. Great for cleaning slides without tear down, that sort of thing.
Field strip a pistol and put it in the tank and it will remove old oil and the like.
I have tried it on barrels; I could not see any difference in before and after.
JB Bore Cleaner works well on stubborn stuff IF you have a tight fitting patch.
Field strip a pistol and put it in the tank and it will remove old oil and the like.
I have tried it on barrels; I could not see any difference in before and after.
JB Bore Cleaner works well on stubborn stuff IF you have a tight fitting patch.
