Can’t Remove Trigger Stop

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kbm6893

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I have another thread on a 66 no dash that I just got. The gun looks unfired and the outer screws didn’t appear to have buggered up. But the one holding the trigger stop has definitely been messed with and I cannot get it to turn. I’ve soaked it in Kroil, although I admit I did not let it sit overnight. Maybe 30 minutes. But no screwdriver bits I have can get it to turn. and I have the nice Brownells set, as well as the Smith and Wesson dedicated set. If I bring it to my gunsmith and he gets it out, can I simply replace the screw if I ever want to put it back in?

This is just gonna be an occasional range gun, but mostly just bought to collect, as it is a beautiful no dash pinned and recessed gun, so the possibility of the trigger stop being a liability is pretty low.
 
series guy said:
Is there any reason that you can't just shoot and enjoy the gun as is?
Click to expand...
Sure. My main reason is because I’m a little OCD a seeing such a buggered screw, even though it’s inside the frame and can’t be seen without the side plate off, bugs me. Also because even though won’t shoot it much, I don’t want it to cause an issue when I do.
 
A trick few tricks I have used…

Penetrating oil overnight, as you already noted. (ATF and acetone is a good alternative to Kroil.)

Heat the screw up with the tip of a soldering iron.

Put your screw driver tip in a drill press and use the press arm to put good straight downward pressure on the screw, turn the chuck by hand to break it loose.
 
kbm6893 said:
Sure. My main reason is because I’m a little OCD a seeing such a buggered screw, even though it’s inside the frame and can’t be seen without the side plate off, bugs me. Also because even though won’t shoot it much, I don’t want it to cause an issue when I do.
Click to expand...
The screw is probably buggered because the trigger stop kept coming loose and the previous owner kept tightening it. As long as the stop is good and secure and doesn't impede function, don't worry about it, especially if you're not going to shoot the gun much.
 
If the screw head shape annoys you, be aware it is the same flathead screw also used to hold the forward edge of the adjustable sight on several decades of S&W revolvers. The smallest screw driver bit included in the Brownell's 5-bit kit for their S&W screwdriver does fit.

The previous owner(s) had to remove the side plate to get to overtravel screw. Concerns me that the OT screw is buggered and the 3 sideplate screws are not.

Kroil needs time to work. Others in this thread have gone into that, as well as other methods.
 
minconrevo said:
If the screw head shape annoys you, be aware it is the same flathead screw also used to hold the forward edge of the adjustable sight on several decades of S&W revolvers. The smallest screw driver bit included in the Brownell's 5-bit kit for their S&W screwdriver does fit.

The previous owner(s) had to remove the side plate to get to overtravel screw. Concerns me that the OT screw is buggered and the 3 sideplate screws are not.

Kroil needs time to work. Others in this thread have gone into that, as well as other methods.
Click to expand...
I have the full Brownells set and a dedicated 4 bit S&W set from Brownells. No 5 screw set. But the 4 bit set has the same bits as in the full set. And I am using the smallest bit b
 
Sounds like someone may have used red loctite to prevent it from coming loose. If so heat will be required or you will shear the head off this small screw. If the screw is that tight then the chances of it loosening and impeding trigger travel are much less than a perfect example of S&W craftsmanship being ruined by its owner.
 
series guy said:
Sounds like someone may have used red loctite to prevent it from coming loose. If so heat will be required or you will shear the head off this small screw. If the screw is that tight then the chances of it loosening and impeding trigger travel are much less than a perfect example of S&W craftsmanship being ruined by its owner.
Click to expand...
If previous owner has applied a variety of red or even green (shudder) LokTite, you may want to leave well enough alone. It may not vibrate loose again. If you want to roll the dice and perhaps create a bigger mess, you can attempt to remove the offending screw. Apply heat to the screw head with an electric pin tip soldering iron. Use that tiny Brownell's screw driver tip every little while to see if screw will move. Don't think I'd attempt the removal process until locating a proper new screw and have it in hand.

I have a S&W revolver with a factory boo-boo on one of the sideplate screws. It is not quite tapped to full depth. I simply shortened the screw a few threads and now all is okay. Someday I'll get the proper taps and do what the factory didn't a couple decades ago.

I'd forgotten I'd added an additional tip to my Brownell's screwdriver handle. 4 is the factory issue.
 
Keep in mind while working on resolving this issue that the threads are in the trigger stop itself, not the revolver frame. The hole in the frame has no threads.

When we were ordered to remove the stops years ago (when dinosaurs roamed the earth) I would let them soak in penetrant overnight. After soaking the screw usually came right out when using adequate pressure and the correct screwdriver bit.

Along with the excellent advice in the earlier threads, you might try inserting a correct size bit into the screw slot, and tapping the top of the bit with a small hammer. Sometimes, setting up a slight vibration (harmonic) in the screw in this way will cause it to break free. This vibration can help the penetrant do it's job better too.




Carter
 
series guy said:
Sounds like someone may have used red loctite to prevent it from coming loose. If so heat will be required or you will shear the head off this small screw. If the screw is that tight then the chances of it loosening and impeding trigger travel are much less than a perfect example of S&W craftsmanship being ruined by its owner.
Click to expand...
I was thinking loctite might have been used. I know how to loosen it but will likely leave it alone.
 
Being a bit CDO myself, I can sympathize with your concern, but IMO you should not look a gift horse in the mouth. The reason for removing certain trigger stops is the concern that one will get loose and keep ypur gun from firing. Doesn't sound like yours is threatening to get loose.
 
If you absolutely have to remove the stop, a good 'Smith can drill out the screw. Don't try this at home.
 
series guy said:
Sounds like someone may have used red loctite to prevent it from coming loose. If so heat will be required or you will shear the head off this small screw. If the screw is that tight then the chances of it loosening and impeding trigger travel are much less than a perfect example of S&W craftsmanship being ruined by its owner.
Click to expand...
Yep, I vote for heating it
 
kbm6893 said:
I have another thread on a 66 no dash that I just got. The gun looks unfired and the outer screws didn’t appear to have buggered up. But the one holding the trigger stop has definitely been messed with and I cannot get it to turn. I’ve soaked it in Kroil, although I admit I did not let it sit overnight. Maybe 30 minutes. But no screwdriver bits I have can get it to turn. and I have the nice Brownells set, as well as the Smith and Wesson dedicated set. If I bring it to my gunsmith and he gets it out, can I simply replace the screw if I ever want to put it back in?

This is just gonna be an occasional range gun, but mostly just bought to collect, as it is a beautiful no dash pinned and recessed gun, so the possibility of the trigger stop being a liability is pretty low
Click to expand...
A lot of new revolvers that I have opened up for the first time, most seem to have the trigger stop screw "buggered" up, looks like it was installed with a butter knife, ha. My thought is that it is put in really tight and if the head is deformed in doing so, it's OK as it doesn't show from the outside.
 
Does the trigger need to be removed to take the screw out? And why would I need another screw on hand? I have a Model 67-1 that has the screw removed and it’s just an empty hole there now.
 
If the slot in the screw is still somewhat usable, (you did say it was buggered up) you should take a screwdriver bit and custom grind it to fit the screw slot. When attempting to turn the screw it is essential to apply enough downward pressure so the bit does not walk out of the slot. You might need another person's assistance. This will give you the best shot at removing it. If you have a soldering iron, apply heat and that should soften Loctite. Red Loctite's removal temp is 550ºF just so you are aware. Blue Loctite is normally able to be removed with normal hand tools at room temp, however since your screw has been compromised, a bit if heat on that too might help. BTW, tapping the screwdriver while in the screw slot with a hammer can sometimes help loosen the bind. BTW, we are assuming Loctite has been applied - it could just be rusted, stuck or difficult to remove because of the buggered up slot. You should also try tapping the trigger stop itself (the part that protrudes) with a brass punch trying not to let it slip off. This could also help loosen it as the vibration will travel through the stop to the threads. Soak it in Kroil or similar before trying.

If the heat and tapping the screw will not work, the screw would have to be drilled out but you would need a drill press, skill and sharp drill bit.

All that said. if this is to be a range only gun you can also opt to leave well enough alone. If it is to be used for self defense or carry, then I understand why you would want to remove it, but if it's in that tight it probably will never go anywhere.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I’m gonna leave it alone. I soaked it in Kroil overnight and no difference. It might be loctite or it might not. But this will be a very seldom used range toy. I never really even looked but my 15 and 18 still have them in and they’ve never given me an issue. If it ever does become a problem, I’ll take it to my gunsmith.
 
kbm6893 said:
Thanks for all the replies. I’m gonna leave it alone. I soaked it in Kroil overnight and no difference. It might be loctite or it might not. But this will be a very seldom used range toy. I never really even looked but my 15 and 18 still have them in and they’ve never given me an issue. If it ever does become a problem, I’ll take it to my gunsmith.
Click to expand...
I think you made the right decision - at least for a "range only / collectible gun". I own many S&W revolvers and some have the stop - some don't. Over all the years I have only had ONE loosen up. That was n a M15 that has had so many rounds through it I've lost count years ago - but probably 60k or so. I tightened it and it's been fine for over a decade of shooting. No Loctite used.
 
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