Center pin length

[SS336]

I have several K frames and the center pin sits the same place on the recoil shield.
On a newly acquired M17-3 the center pin is longer enough that it is harder to close the cylinder. The two pictures are of K frames about a year apart.
My question, is this "within specs" or somewhere in the last 52 years did someone put a newer one in that isn't quite correct?
It does seem to press harder on the recoil shield than it needs too.
Should I leave it be or find a replacement or grind it down? I might be too fussy and have too much time on my hands.

All my '70's k frame are like this-


M17-3 is longer like this-

 

[Protocall_Design]

The easy thing to do would just be shorten it and radius the end a little more.

 

[SS336]

Thanks, that's what I was thinking but was looking for some validation. Didn't want to go off half cocked.

 

[Protocall_Design]

Right - that could cause a misfire.

 

[chief38]

Before shortening it you might want to remove it, make sure nothing is inside that shouldn't be, (debris, a small piece of a broken spring, powder, locktite, etc) and that it was put together correctly. Reassemble and tighten properly. if you know how to properly do this of course.

Don't forget to insert empties while loosening and tightening the reverse threaded rod.

If it is indeed too long, then do what Protocall Design above suggests.

You can always shorten metal but making it longer is not so easy!

 

[ken158]

There is a way to check the proper length and maybe a sticky here but I will try to explain. First, be sure the ejector rod is screwed in tight, then place a flat object against the protruding center pin and press it flat against the ratchets and look to see if the other end protrudes from the opposite end of the ejector rod. It should be even but if it protrudes then it is safe to file it flat as designed. Now, the yoke could be out of alignment or other such issue, but a place to start.

 

[SS336]

Before shortening it you might want to remove it, make sure nothing is inside that shouldn't be, (debris, a small piece of a broken spring, powder, locktite, etc) and that it was put together correctly. Reassemble and tighten properly. if you know how to properly do this of course.

Don't forget to insert empties while loosening and tightening the reverse threaded rod.

If it is indeed too long, then do what Protocall Design above suggests.

You can always shorten metal but making it longer is not so easy!

I have already taken the revolver apart and thoroughly cleaned it. It had been sitting around for a while, dirty and dry, when I got it.
The rounded end of center pin sits a little farther back at the rear, see pictures, than my other K frame. That makes it a little harder to close the cylinder. It opens fine.
I wondered if it was slightly over spec and will do what Protocall Design suggested. It's an easy fix, I just wondered if anyone had a similar problem and how they dealt with it.
Thanks, Frank

 

[chief38]

I have already taken the revolver apart and thoroughly cleaned it. It had been sitting around for a while, dirty and dry, when I got it.
The rounded end of center pin sits a little farther back at the rear, see pictures, than my other K frame. That makes it a little harder to close the cylinder. It opens fine.
I wondered if it was slightly over spec and will do what Protocall Design suggested. It's an easy fix, I just wondered if anyone had a similar problem and how they dealt with it.
Thanks, Frank

Ah, OK - didn't realize you had taken it apart already. So if you follow PD's advise you should be good to go.

 

[walter o]

KEN makes a good point just shortening the rod and it might not unlock the latch on the barrel.Something to check

 

[armorer951]

Keep in mind that if you shorten the center pin's length, it will not move as far forward when the thumbpiece is pushed to open, and thus the end of the extractor rod may may subsequently "catch" on the locking bolt up front.

You can remedy this, if it happens, by removing a bit of material from the front end of the extractor rod and re-beveling, or by shortening the extractor rod collar inside the cylinder assembly. Shortening the ex rod collar will move the extractor rod back a bit, (the desired amount) without any cosmetic consequences at the end of the extractor rod, and without changing the position of any of the other components.... with the exception of the extractor rod itself.


Carter

 

[SS336]

That is a great idea Carter. Never thought of that.
Think I will take apart the cylinder apart and study the problem a little more. With everyone's hints and tips I'm sure I can figure it out…..maybe.
Thanks to everyone for for your input.

 

[chief38]

Yes, I am kicking myself for not remembering to post what Armorer said - I knew that just didn't think of it at the the time. Silly me!

ALTHOUGH (added) The rear portion could still be too long if mis-manufactured. You should compare it to factory spec's. There should be spec's online if you google it or just measure one if you have a spare. You could also take another Revolver's cylinder apart if none of the above pans out.