Chamfering and Deburring Non Trimmed Brass?

kbm6893

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Just got into reloading rifle .223 and rather than do everything in big batches I’m getting brass once loaded and fired by me ready for the next loading at some point. Most of the brass does not need to be trimmed. Do you chamfer and debur brass that hasn’t been trimmed? Not an issue if I have to. I have the Frankfort Arsenal prep center (works great by the way) and a quick chamfer and debut will take about 4 seconds each. Just don’t know if is something that I should NOT do. Thanks.
 
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Just got into reloading rifle .223 and rather than do everything in big batches I’m getting brass once loaded and fired by me ready for the next loading at some point. Most of the brass does not need to be trimmed. Do you chamfer and debur brass that hasn’t been trimmed? Not an issue if I have to. I have the Frankfort Arsenal prep center (works great by the way) and a quick chamfer and debut will take about 4 seconds each. Just don’t know if is something that I should NOT do. Thanks.

If you haven't trimmed it, there shouldn't be anything to chamfer or deburr.
 
If you haven't trimmed it, there shouldn't be anything to chamfer or deburr.

I'll second that, though I've run into some brass that is pretty square at the edge, and could use a quick chamfer. A cursory inspection will tell you what your case mouths look like, but 99% of the time you'll be good to go.
 
Load some without any deburing or chamfering and shoot a group. If the group is like the one you shot with the new brass, then it doesn't need it.

If the group isn't good, try some with only deburing and some with only chamfering. If one is better than the other, you'll know what to do.

I shoot matches, and debur and chamfer new brass before loading, but I also shoot out to 600 yds.
 
Go ahead, chamfer it

Brand new unfired factory brass almost always has a turned-in edge inside the mouth & needs to be chamfered.

You can feel the edge with the tip of your little finger (& fingernail).

Once they've been loaded & fired that edge is usually minimized.

If you can not feel the rough edge inside the mouth you're good but chamfering only takes a few second & you won't likely have to do it again before you lose the brass. :p

.
 
Yep, every piece of new brass for both hand and long gun gets a mild chamfer. The longer-reaching 7mm RM brass also gets a few turns in the 0000 steel wool for a baby-butt smooth finish.
 
Is there a reason not to chamfer/deburr a case? I would look at the case mouth and, regardless it I have trimmed it or not, if there is a sharp edge, or a slight defect, I'd deburr/chamfer it. In my time as a machinist mechanic I have handled prolly millions of machined parts and have has hundreds of cuts on my hands and fingers. Just one reason to clean up metal edges. Besides, a nice clean lightly chamfered/deburred case mouth looks much better...

There is a difference between deburring, "breaking an edge" and chamfering though. When I clean up a case mouth I do not put more than .005" cut on the case mouth. Some that chamfer will cut .010" 015" out of the case mouth. Some chamfer to aid bullet seating. Personal preference...
 
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Being fired the neck should be "Round", unlike some "New" unfired cases that are bought.

I will do the inside of a case to help bullet seating........
and as mentioned, the outside lightly if it is not smooth but I try not to remove brass, unless it is really needed.

However any super duper target brass, will get a major work over but
that is a whole new thing, over the normal plinking ammo.
 
In my experience, new brass tends to have sharp edged case mouths, sometimes even tiny burs. I always give new brass a light chamfering of the case mouth.
 
Any brass, new or previously fired, can have minute nicks in the case mouth that can lead to cracks/splits. Chamfering and deburring helps remove them. I do it to all my brass after every sizing. It's my preference, and my time is free.
 
I very seldom buy new brass, but when I do, I purposely trim it all to the same length then de-burr and chamfer. I don't do that with fired brass if the case length is OK.
 
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