What is the process, or better yet who has the capabilities to change out a pinned barrel. Potentially looking at changing a model 19 from 4" to 6". Have never considered what's involved and how difficult it would be. Is this something best left to the professionals? And just where would I look for someone with that talent set. None of the smiths (term used loosely) around here work on revolvers.
Changing out a barrel??
- Thread starter MisterC
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During manufacture the yoke is fitted to the frame, then the cylinder fitted for minimal end shake. After that the barrel’s shoulder and rear end are cut on a lathe so that the barrel screws in upright with the correct torque and flash gap. S&W ran out of Model 19 barrels long ago and has said they will make no more. If you can find a good used barrel, unless you get very lucky, it will have to be lathe turned to fit your frame and cylinder. Along with the lathe and precision measuring tools a frame wrench is needed to avoid warping the frame. Installing a barrel is a job for a professional.
The barrel pins were a non-functional sales gimmick. Barrel installation did not change when the pins were discontinued.
I suggest trading for a 6” Model 19. In addition to the difficulty of finding and the cost of a barrel swapping barrels costs around $150. There is more demand for shorter barrels so it should not be to hard finding a trade.
The barrel pins were a non-functional sales gimmick. Barrel installation did not change when the pins were discontinued.
I suggest trading for a 6” Model 19. In addition to the difficulty of finding and the cost of a barrel swapping barrels costs around $150. There is more demand for shorter barrels so it should not be to hard finding a trade.
The price for small gunsmith shops to change barrels runs from $75 to $125. Using one entails some risk that they will not do a good job. Many make their own substitute for a frame wrench and most of the substitutes risk warping the frame if the old barrel is in tight. S&W charges $100 including return shipping but it costs about $50 to ship a handgun to them. While a local FFL can mail it for about half that they normally want to be compensated for their time. If you have a local guy that will do good work for $75 stay on his good side.
There is also risk in buying used barrels off eBay. Damaged barrels usually do not go in the trash after they are removed. They usually go in the gunsmith's junk box or are returned. Eventually they wind up on eBay without the seller being aware they are junk or not disclosing the problem. Guess how I learned this.
Also, while it is not relevant to shooter grade Model 19s, if a future owner letters a high condition Model 19 not having its original barrel will lower its value to collectors.
Unless the original poster already has a loose barrel in his sock drawer, trading guns makes more sense.
There is also risk in buying used barrels off eBay. Damaged barrels usually do not go in the trash after they are removed. They usually go in the gunsmith's junk box or are returned. Eventually they wind up on eBay without the seller being aware they are junk or not disclosing the problem. Guess how I learned this.
Also, while it is not relevant to shooter grade Model 19s, if a future owner letters a high condition Model 19 not having its original barrel will lower its value to collectors.
Unless the original poster already has a loose barrel in his sock drawer, trading guns makes more sense.
Bullseye 2620
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Alex Hamilton can do this job properly at a reasonable price.
A few months back he switched out a 6-1/2 inch barrel on a 29-2 for a 4-inch barrel at a cost of $70.00 with one-day turnaround.
Special equipment is needed to prevent bending (springing) the frame and a special barrel vice is also required, I believe. Anyway, Alex is a total gentleman and a pleasure to work with. You can reach him here:
Ten-Ring Precision, Inc.
1449 Blue Crest Lane
San Antonio, Texas 78232
PHONE: (210) 494-3063
FAX: (210) 494-3066
EMAIL: [email protected]
He's doing an action job on a 617 no dash I've got right how. I have nothing but good things to say about Alex and his work.
A few months back he switched out a 6-1/2 inch barrel on a 29-2 for a 4-inch barrel at a cost of $70.00 with one-day turnaround.
Special equipment is needed to prevent bending (springing) the frame and a special barrel vice is also required, I believe. Anyway, Alex is a total gentleman and a pleasure to work with. You can reach him here:
Ten-Ring Precision, Inc.
1449 Blue Crest Lane
San Antonio, Texas 78232
PHONE: (210) 494-3063
FAX: (210) 494-3066
EMAIL: [email protected]
He's doing an action job on a 617 no dash I've got right how. I have nothing but good things to say about Alex and his work.
Hmmmm....I just happen to have a son and daughter who live in San Antonio. Maybe on my next visit....
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Several folks mentioned frame wrenches. Many of the commercially available frame wenches don't properly support the frame and create a substantial risk of warping the frame if you get an example with a really tight fit. Back in the day I got surprised by a really tight barrel in an N frame and took the time to make up an insert set that properly supported the threaded boss in the frame and was able to remove the barrel without damage to the frame.
Most barrels are placed between grooved wood blocks. Round barrels can be locked in a barrel vise with a bushing.
Most barrels are placed between grooved wood blocks. Round barrels can be locked in a barrel vise with a bushing.
dfariswheel
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After getting the barrel properly fitted to the frame there are several other necessary steps.
One is using a special cutting tool that works down the barrel to cut the proper barrel-cylinder gap.
Second is using another special tool and a precision gage to re-cut and gage the forcing cone. Then a brass taper is used with valve grinding compound to lap the forcing cone smooth.
A shocking number of even "professional" gunsmiths have no idea the forcing cone needs to be re-worked. Like many people they assume the forcing cone is just a funnel in the rear of the barrel and isn't a critical area.
How to destroy a nice revolver........
Use a 2x2 or hammer handle through the frame to twist the barrel off.
Screw the replacement barrel on. When it doesn't line up with the front sight at 12:00 o'clock use some Loctite or epoxy to glue it in place.
Use a file to cut the barrel to set the barrel-cylinder gap.
Ignore the forcing cone.
Wonder why the frame now has that funny looking crack under the barrel or why the frame seems to be bent.
Wonder why the gun no longer shoots well.
A real expert who has very reasonable prices and fast turnaround is Master gunsmith Frank Glenn.
Frank Glenn-Glenn Custom Complete Gunsmithing Service Glendale AZ
One is using a special cutting tool that works down the barrel to cut the proper barrel-cylinder gap.
Second is using another special tool and a precision gage to re-cut and gage the forcing cone. Then a brass taper is used with valve grinding compound to lap the forcing cone smooth.
A shocking number of even "professional" gunsmiths have no idea the forcing cone needs to be re-worked. Like many people they assume the forcing cone is just a funnel in the rear of the barrel and isn't a critical area.
How to destroy a nice revolver........
Use a 2x2 or hammer handle through the frame to twist the barrel off.
Screw the replacement barrel on. When it doesn't line up with the front sight at 12:00 o'clock use some Loctite or epoxy to glue it in place.
Use a file to cut the barrel to set the barrel-cylinder gap.
Ignore the forcing cone.
Wonder why the frame now has that funny looking crack under the barrel or why the frame seems to be bent.
Wonder why the gun no longer shoots well.
A real expert who has very reasonable prices and fast turnaround is Master gunsmith Frank Glenn.
Frank Glenn-Glenn Custom Complete Gunsmithing Service Glendale AZ
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Well, some of us would make several trial fits, do some very careful measurements and cut the barrel shank to length and clean up the forcing cone in a lathe. Then install the barrel and make any final adjustments, if any were needed.
I really wonder how many revolvers got ruined by hammer handles through the frame opening? I saw one I can recall where I got it after some local wonder warped the frame. I refused to touch it, told him to send it back to S&W. Or, take the idiot to small claims court and demand a new gun. Dunno what he ever did.
I really wonder how many revolvers got ruined by hammer handles through the frame opening? I saw one I can recall where I got it after some local wonder warped the frame. I refused to touch it, told him to send it back to S&W. Or, take the idiot to small claims court and demand a new gun. Dunno what he ever did.
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You are one of the few people I have heard from who understand a pinned barrel is fitted just like the newer non pinned barrels. Most think there is something magical with pinned barrels. I have fitted a number of them and once the barrel has the proper crush fit, you mark the barrel through the pin whole, remove the barrel and fill a small slot for the pin to go through.
The pin is largely cosmetic since a properly fit barrel will not loosen. Reference Patrick Sweeney’s text on gunsmithing handguns for more detail.
It should not take two more hours to perform
GunnerMichael
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Why not both
Sound to me like you really like the revolver you have and should keep it as is, but you have a need/want for a 6” model. Why not own both? That is what I do, just like many others.
Unless you are unable to purchase a second handgun for some reason that is my recommendation, keep your 4” and buy another in with a 6”. The only problem is then you will want one in a snubby to round out the collection.
Sound to me like you really like the revolver you have and should keep it as is, but you have a need/want for a 6” model. Why not own both? That is what I do, just like many others.
Unless you are unable to purchase a second handgun for some reason that is my recommendation, keep your 4” and buy another in with a 6”. The only problem is then you will want one in a snubby to round out the collection.
