Changing the lube in a Lyman sizer

jjones33

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I always know there is an easier way to do things than I usually do it so the question is what is the easiest way you all have found to completely change out the lube in a Lyman sizer (45)?
 
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I always know there is an easier way to do things than I usually do it so the question is what is the easiest way you all have found to completely change out the lube in a Lyman sizer (45)?
 
What I've done with both Lyman 45's and Saeco's is to remove the rubber plunger assembly and all the rods, and then boil the luber body in a large kettle full of water. It's messy and time consuming, especially with a Saeco, but it works and you get every bit out.
 
I have had the best results in just removing the piston and dies. Then I use a heat gun to melt the lube (by heating the body until it all runs out. If you are using a heat gun, be careful as you can overheat things. You just want it hot enough to melt the lube.

A ladies hair dryer works well, also, and will not overheat anything. It's just a bit slower.

I hold the luber over a plastic bag to catch the lube (be careful, hot lube is pretty much like napalm (not quite
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) if it gets on the skin).

Dale53
 
Originally posted by Shuz:
What I've done with both Lyman 45's and Saeco's is to remove the rubber plunger assembly and all the rods, and then boil the luber body in a large kettle full of water. It's messy and time consuming, especially with a Saeco, but it works and you get every bit out.

I've done essentially the same thing as Shuz, but used a warm (WARM, not hot) oven with the sizer in a foil-lined OLD cookie sheet. It's a really good idea to get your wife's permission and to turn on the kitchen vent fan before employing this method.
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How timely is this?!

I just received my dozen sticks of BAC from White Label, so it was time to get rid of the old lube and start fresh in my Lyman 450.

Not knowing how, I did the blunt force trauma approach.

I took out the die and ran the plunger all the way down, scooping out the old lube every so often, then I put a new BAC in and repeated the operation until the exiting lube was red. All the old alox/beeswax was out of the body.

I put each die in my vise and after removing the center punch I held a butane lighter under and around it to get it warm - not hot, and used compressed air to blow out the holes, then I wiped down the dies with a blue paper shop cloth.

Done deal.

This new lube is much less sticky and cloying and I hope it will reduce smoke, especially in non magnum pistol and 7.62x39.
 
Dale53 has made the suggestion that I found to be the easiest but I usually added another step and that was to "wash" everything down with Carburetor Cleaner from the auto parts store.
 
Originally posted by KKG:
Dale53 has made the suggestion that I found to be the easiest but I usually added another step and that was to "wash" everything down with Carburetor Cleaner from the auto parts store.

That's pretty much how I've done it in the past with a hair drier. Was just hoping someone had a magic incantation that would make it a little bit less messy. No free lunches in this life, eh?

Thanks guys.
 
I've cleaned them out using the heat gun method, but boiling them in water sounds like it would work, just make sure there good and dry before putting them back in service, don't want any rust.
 
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