Changing trigger pull
- Thread starter gdog357
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Toolguy
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It will make the single action heavier.
ContinentalOp
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Do you have the factory rebound spring or a lighter one?
If it's factory, I don't think they make a heavier one. I've looked for one and have never been successful. As far as I know the heaviest rebound spring is factory strength.
FWIW, if you're good with the DA pull and the gun fires reliably in DA, I'd say it's fine to carry. SA isn't really practical for self defense purposes. Plus, I seriously doubt you'll be able to get a DA revolver's SA pull heavy enough to be considered "safe" for self defense use, at least not without some work on the internals (I'm not a gunsmith...I could be wrong).
Just my opinion.
If it's factory, I don't think they make a heavier one. I've looked for one and have never been successful. As far as I know the heaviest rebound spring is factory strength.
FWIW, if you're good with the DA pull and the gun fires reliably in DA, I'd say it's fine to carry. SA isn't really practical for self defense purposes. Plus, I seriously doubt you'll be able to get a DA revolver's SA pull heavy enough to be considered "safe" for self defense use, at least not without some work on the internals (I'm not a gunsmith...I could be wrong).
Just my opinion.
Kurusu
Absent Comrade
Odds are that if your SA pull is light and the sear engagement wasn't messed with. Someone installed a light rebound spring. With a factory one, you should be back to normal.
Almost forgot. Check if the mainspring tension screw is screwed in tight.
lefty_jake
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Do you have access to an accurate trigger scale? I highly recommend getting one or finding someone who has one. Whenever someone has concerns about trigger weight, whether it is too heavy or too light, it is hard to make assessments without accurate measurements. And the measurements are often even more important when you start making changes to repair the issue.
With all firearms, I find that it is difficult to judge the weight just by feel. The difference between the feel and what the scale shows can be quite surprising. But estimating the weight of S&W single action triggers can be particularly difficult, because the triggers have so little movement during the break.
So while it is pretty common for S&W revolvers with light springs or worn parts to have exceptionally light single action triggers, it is also common that people underestimate the weight of these triggers due to their "glass rod" feel when they break.
With all firearms, I find that it is difficult to judge the weight just by feel. The difference between the feel and what the scale shows can be quite surprising. But estimating the weight of S&W single action triggers can be particularly difficult, because the triggers have so little movement during the break.
So while it is pretty common for S&W revolvers with light springs or worn parts to have exceptionally light single action triggers, it is also common that people underestimate the weight of these triggers due to their "glass rod" feel when they break.
It’s hard to provide good advice without objective measures of the actual trigger weight.
Smith revolver single action triggers can seem very light to those inexperienced with them.
If you’re a relatively inexperienced shooter or your experience is limited to shooting things like Smith’s Bodyguard 380, the 640-642 double action only revolvers or even Glocks, unmodified single action Smith triggers can be startlingly crisp and feel very light.
Smith revolver single action triggers can seem very light to those inexperienced with them.
If you’re a relatively inexperienced shooter or your experience is limited to shooting things like Smith’s Bodyguard 380, the 640-642 double action only revolvers or even Glocks, unmodified single action Smith triggers can be startlingly crisp and feel very light.
ggibson511960
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Strain Screw Specifications??
Does anybody know what the official S&W specification is on strain screw pre-load. Is it a specified number of turns past touching? I've always screwed mine in till everything worked O.K., which obviously works, but I wonder what S&W deems the proper preload.
Does anybody know what the official S&W specification is on strain screw pre-load. Is it a specified number of turns past touching? I've always screwed mine in till everything worked O.K., which obviously works, but I wonder what S&W deems the proper preload.
Kurusu
Absent Comrade
Me, I screw it all in. The fastest the hammer falls the better.
amazingflapjack
US Veteran
Make sure the strain screw is tight.
^^^^^ What they said. It is not an adjusting screw. Do not shorten the strain screw either.
Toolguy
Member
There are different length strain screws for different models. On each one, the strain screw is turned all the way in so the head seats in the grip frame. It's a non adjustable, fixed position item, as stated above.
mike campbell
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Not to pick on this particular poster, since this idea is obviously held by a lot of people. But....Why is it not an adjusting screw and why not shorten it?
I've been adjusting DA pulls on S&W revolvers for 40 years and I use the screw to "adjust" the DA pull, and (sometimes) shorten the screw to be snug at the desired weight. What am I doing wrong? Is there a way to take 4-5 lbs off the DA pull withoiut touching the strain screw?
vipermd
Absent Comrade
No If your SA is light, and DA is smooth it is the way a S&W 19 was built. My S&W 19 purchased in 1976 has a smooth DA and the SA is lighter than the DA. I purchased it new, no springs have been changed, no one has touched it. A second purchased for my Father in 1980, "seemed " to have a heavier DA & SA but it did not have the target trigger. A trigger scale was used and they were +/- 1 oz in SA after 10 tests. I do not remember the numbers ( it was 35-37 years ago ), I will try to pull them out and test them, and as stated they are still factory original, but the different triggers did feel like a different weight. So I would test the SA before you believe it is too light. Be Safe,
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OK, the issue with loosening the strain screw is that it can start walking and reduce the tension on the spring below the level of reliable ignition. This is why the folks who build PPC guns install lock screws for the strain screw. You adjust the strain screw for 100% reliability and then lock it into position so it won't move.
I have to admit I kind of snickered at this concept myself for quite awhile, but I did use Loc-Tite on the strain screw of revolvers I used for hunting and other serious purposes. Recently, I was experimenting with a revolver, set the strain screw and didn't apply locking compound. Lo and behold, the screw loosened up on me.
If you're going to reduce the tension, go ahead and shorten the strain screw, just have spares. This will let you get the screw tight so it won't move. The downside, is that it can be a real short distance between not quite light enough and OOPS!
The methodology of doing a DA trigger job is way too long to get into here, but adjusting the mainspring tension is a minor part.
About 40 years ago I did the same thing, using the strain screw to lighten DA pull. Now there are variable weight mainsprings and rebound springs that weren't available back then. That is the safe way to change DA pull. The reason I said don't shorten the strain screw is it is very difficult to find a correct length strain screw for a square butt k frame to replace the one you shortened.
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I bought the DVD "Trigger JOB" with Jerry Miculek. It's pretty good. It goes into a lot more than just stoning the rebound slide and lightening the spring tension.
mike campbell
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Miculek has a 7 minute video on youtube. It's free. ADJUST the strain screw to the desired pull weight. SHORTEN the strain screw. Done.
Works for me and Jerry.
Works for me and Jerry.
Jdavis
Member
Note also that he installs his “Miculek” spring kit and that he must use only Federal primers after doing so. Factory ammo and reloads with harder primers might produce FTF as a result of light strikes.
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