dlbx2
Member
I am going to try my hand at checkering. Any advice on which tools to buy?
DLB
DLB
Checkering Tools
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hotrod150
Member
I don't know about either one, but are you talking about checkering wood or checkering metal?
crsides
US Veteran, SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
checker this out ...
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-hand-ejectors-1896-1961/187640-started-set-checkering-tools.html
Charlie
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-hand-ejectors-1896-1961/187640-started-set-checkering-tools.html
Charlie
I started checkering about 15 years ago and bought a Dembart handles and a few cutters. After 15 years, I still use Dembart products. If you are re-cutting existing checkering, you first need to know how many lines per inch you are refreshing. Just measure 1" and count the lines, then order a couple of cutters with spacers and a couple of single line cutters. You might want to try both the left and right hand cutters to see how each work. Key it to practice - practice - practice on the same type of wood as your project is to get the feel for how the cutters work.
OP
dlbx2
Member
Thank you. I am looking at a Dem-Bart starter set with 6 tools, an instruction book, 18 lines per inch. But, looking at Brownell's, Midway, and others, I see that the are other, more expensive sets, and wonder what the difference is. I am the type that doesn't like spending the same money twice. Sal gave me some advice quite a while back,"when spending money on gun related items, buy the best that you can afford and you will never regret it". That was in regard to a 3.5 27 that I was looking at, and bought, but it applies to anything else. However, if more expensive doesn't mean better or more user friendly then it isn't best use of funds. Thanks......DLB
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I would recommend the Gunline checkering tools. Unfortunately I can't compare them to Dem-Bart or any others, as I have only ever used the Gunline tools, but I can say that they are made well. I believe they can be ordered from midwayusa; however, I went to Gunline Tools - Go with the best in Checkering Tools! - Home Page and ordered mine straight from them. They have several different "sets" to choose from, or can be bought individually.
Good luck with the new endeavor!
Good luck with the new endeavor!
I use both DemBart and Gunline steel cutters,,a couple of Single Line Carbide hand tools and an MMC checkering tool.
I like the Gunline a little better than the Dembart as they cut more aggressivly and you can clean the teeth of the wood debris easier than the DemBart.
(Gunline does have a couple of the Dembart style of fine cut points too, but I just use the DemBart ones that I have)
If the wood can hold it,,you can cut the diamonds to a sharper (deeper) 60degree cut than the more often seen 90degree cut.
It makes a big difference in the appearence and feel. But it doesn't always fit in with the original work on some guns,,and doesn't look good when the LPI gets much less than 20. 24lpi is about the finest that 60degree looks right IMHO.
They used to make 75degree cutters, but I haven't seen those in many years.
Gunline cutters can be resharpened a couple of times (if you're careful) because of their design. The DemBart, the cutting teeth being like the face of a file, do not lend themselves to reshapening.
When those get dull, that's it.,,,and they can dull quickly on some jobs.
Recutting old work will dull them very quickly. Even new work can ruin them in a hurry if the finish was done with a filler or even a semi-gloss or satin finish. Most of them are silica based and eat up the cutter edges.
You'll need multiple cutters in each style that you find usefull and then again each of those in the different LPI that you want to cut.
Single and 2-line cutters. Left hand and right hand single line spacers.
Short border tool, extra length single line tool, V chisel,,there's all sorts of tools you can find a need for.
Triple line cutters are made along w/ left and right hand double line spacer tools. They can be fast but can also get you in trouble real quick!
I bought a set of long and short single line carbide tools many years ago, probably 30 or more,, and they've been one of the best investments I ever made. They save a lot of those quick to wear out replaceable cutters from being trashed.
I also started using an MMC checkering tool on a Foredom flex shaft in the 80's. It's certainly saves time and makes some of the more difficult cuts much more easier.
Some are able to do the entire job start to finish with one, but I have to do the final finishing cuts and edge/border cuts by hand. It's still a great time saver.
Checkering can get boring,,getting through the job a bit faster is good and makes for a better payday.
I have a re-cut job to do on an Ithaca SB Trap gun. Some of the original checkering pattern and border is gone from refitting the stock and refinishing. The rest is worn and flattened. The intricate pattern will make use of all of the tools above to bring it back to life. A gun that's worth the time and effort though.
The entire job can be done with nothing but the simplest of tools and patience however. It's been done that way since forever.
I like the Gunline a little better than the Dembart as they cut more aggressivly and you can clean the teeth of the wood debris easier than the DemBart.
(Gunline does have a couple of the Dembart style of fine cut points too, but I just use the DemBart ones that I have)
If the wood can hold it,,you can cut the diamonds to a sharper (deeper) 60degree cut than the more often seen 90degree cut.
It makes a big difference in the appearence and feel. But it doesn't always fit in with the original work on some guns,,and doesn't look good when the LPI gets much less than 20. 24lpi is about the finest that 60degree looks right IMHO.
They used to make 75degree cutters, but I haven't seen those in many years.
Gunline cutters can be resharpened a couple of times (if you're careful) because of their design. The DemBart, the cutting teeth being like the face of a file, do not lend themselves to reshapening.
When those get dull, that's it.,,,and they can dull quickly on some jobs.
Recutting old work will dull them very quickly. Even new work can ruin them in a hurry if the finish was done with a filler or even a semi-gloss or satin finish. Most of them are silica based and eat up the cutter edges.
You'll need multiple cutters in each style that you find usefull and then again each of those in the different LPI that you want to cut.
Single and 2-line cutters. Left hand and right hand single line spacers.
Short border tool, extra length single line tool, V chisel,,there's all sorts of tools you can find a need for.
Triple line cutters are made along w/ left and right hand double line spacer tools. They can be fast but can also get you in trouble real quick!
I bought a set of long and short single line carbide tools many years ago, probably 30 or more,, and they've been one of the best investments I ever made. They save a lot of those quick to wear out replaceable cutters from being trashed.
I also started using an MMC checkering tool on a Foredom flex shaft in the 80's. It's certainly saves time and makes some of the more difficult cuts much more easier.
Some are able to do the entire job start to finish with one, but I have to do the final finishing cuts and edge/border cuts by hand. It's still a great time saver.
Checkering can get boring,,getting through the job a bit faster is good and makes for a better payday.
I have a re-cut job to do on an Ithaca SB Trap gun. Some of the original checkering pattern and border is gone from refitting the stock and refinishing. The rest is worn and flattened. The intricate pattern will make use of all of the tools above to bring it back to life. A gun that's worth the time and effort though.
The entire job can be done with nothing but the simplest of tools and patience however. It's been done that way since forever.
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Can't help ya but I am sort of interested in getting into wood checkering myself, so when you figure it out please post your findings. Thanks!
Chief38
Chief38
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