Chinese Norinco 1911a1 45acp

[upcountry]

Years ago, I mentioned to my soon to be wife that I wanted a basic 1911 to build. I would stop in at my LGS and look around but the manager always would discourage me from a 1911 in the case for one reason or another. On my birthday, she gave me a box and wrapped up in packing paper was a Norinco. Turns out the manager and she were in cahoots and he was holding the Norinco for her.
I eventually replaced and cleaned up every internal part with Wilson and other quality parts, beavertail, etc and had a gunsmith lower and flair the port and install Bomar sights. The gunsmith commented on the quality of the Norinco and it's steel.
It's the one gun I'll never sell. We've been married over 20 years and she's still supportive of my shooting hobby.

 

[Kurusu]

Nice! Well... except for the stocks. I really do like nicely figured wooden stocks.

Me too. And without finger grooves please.

 

[gregintenn]

You can always peen the slide rails for a tighter fit if you please.

 

[BigBill]

With the rubber finger groove grips I can squeeze my fingers into the rubber so firm the 1911 becomes an extention of my arm.

 

[BigBill]

You can always peen the slide rails for a tighter fit if you please.

The front part of the slide and frame rails seems to be a tad looser over the rear section which is acceptable. I need to measure the slide and frame rails more closely. I did purchase all the tools to tighten up the frame rails.
Since the barrel bushing was so loose in the slide I’m thinking it had many 1,000’s of rounds through it when I purchased it, shooting clusters and cloverleafs and 1 1/2” groups using Russian wolf ammo at 25 yds isn’t too bad. I’m thinking there’s a horizontal side to side pressure as the recoil spring coils up inside the slide. The FLGR eliminates this pressure.

 

[gregintenn]

The front part of the slide and frame rails seems to be a tad looser over the rear section which is acceptable. I need to measure the slide and frame rails more closely. I did purchase all the tools to tighten up the frame rails.
Since the barrel bushing was so loose in the slide I’m thinking it had many 1,000’s of rounds through it when I purchased it, shooting clusters and cloverleafs and 1 1/2” groups using Russian wolf ammo at 25 yds isn’t too bad. I’m thinking there’s a horizontal side to side pressure as the recoil spring coils up inside the slide. The FLGR eliminates this pressure.

You probably won’t see a big accuracy improvement from tightening the slide. You just won’t have a rattle pistol any longer.

 

[Taj]

More proof that slide to receiver fit is not that critical to practical accuracy. Proper and consistent barrel lockup, good sights, and a good trigger provide the bulk of the accuracy in a semi-auto pistol.

You are right to some degree. Barrel lockup can compensate for a crappy slide to frame fit. However, that being said, a good slide to frame fit will allow a good shooting auto to continue to shoot well for hundreds of rounds longer than one with a crappy fit. I've had a lot of guns come into my shop that had been set up to lock up on the link. This was done to compensate for a really bad slide to frame interface. More than one of these had been damaged due to prolonged shooting while set up like this.
Slide frame fitting is not hard once you've done a few hundred of them. Some need a little, some need a lot. It can make the diff between a good gun and a great gun you hand down to the Grandkids.

 

[Baltimoreed11754]

Your experience pretty much mimics my own first 1911 build Big Bill. Except I started with a surplus Gold Cup slide from Numrich and a ss Caspian frame. Don’t remember where the bbl came from but probably was a Wilson along with the other bits and pieces. Bought a copy of Kuhnhousen’s book too. Fit an oversized NM bushing with a drill press no lathe. Used good old Colgate to fit the tight slide to the frame. Added a full length guide rod. Thinking it’s a Videcki trigger. The red grips and beaver tail safety are relatively new. It originally had a ss beavertail without the speed bump. One of my better builds. I’ve never done another 1911 build that was that involved. Never owned a Norinco .45 but do have their 1897 Trenchgun and an ATD .22 Browning copy. Both good firearms. The .22 is very accurate.

 

[BigBill]

I’m going to try my quality SWC target loads first before I touch the rails.

I have the orginal barrel and parts in a plastic bag marked for the norc. I’m educating my son where everything is kept. So he understands what goes to what.

 

[BigBill]

You probably won’t see a big accuracy improvement from tightening the slide. You just won’t have a rattle pistol any longer.

It doesn’t rattle as Bad as I seen other 1911’s rattle.

 

[OLDSTER]

It doesn’t rattle as Bad as I seen other 1911’s rattle.

My Norinco ( see post #15 ) has closer tolerances, and is "tighter" than either my Colt or Springfield. As posted above, it's unfortunate that really nice , unaltered Norincos are very hard to find. They may get snubbed by folks who know nothing about them because they were made in China, but I, for one, highly recommend one for a "Mil-Spec" clone.

 

[stansdds]

You are right to some degree. Barrel lockup can compensate for a crappy slide to frame fit. However, that being said, a good slide to frame fit will allow a good shooting auto to continue to shoot well for hundreds of rounds longer than one with a crappy fit. I've had a lot of guns come into my shop that had been set up to lock up on the link. This was done to compensate for a really bad slide to frame interface. More than one of these had been damaged due to prolonged shooting while set up like this.
Slide frame fitting is not hard once you've done a few hundred of them. Some need a little, some need a lot. It can make the diff between a good gun and a great gun you hand down to the Grandkids.

I agree, long linking is bad all around. It screws up the timing of the barrel unlocking from the slide, dragging on the edges of the radial locking lugs, can cause the rear of the bottom lug to bash the receiver abutment and barrel bed and place the barrel feed ramp edge too close to the edge of the receiver feed ramp. Long linking is the stuff of Bubba and his kitchen table gunsmithing shop.

Used good old Colgate to fit the tight slide to the frame.

Poor man's lapping compound! Yep, been there, done that, and it actually works pretty darned well.

 

[CH4]

Maybe sought after by collectors but not better than a colt. Maybe better for a project build.

The steel is supposed to be our scrap rail road track.

I’ve bought 3 current production Colts in as many years. I still have my Norinco. The fit and finish were not up to my standards for a 1911 of any make. I’ve repeatedly discussed this with the Colt reps at SHOT. They just grimace and say they’re within specs.
The over travel/squishy thumb safeties drive me crazy.

I’ve also heard that Norcs are made from old rails and or 4150 steel. I know they’re hard on cutters.

 

[Drm50]

Maybe I have misjudged Norinco 1911. I may go back and contact the guy who wanted to trade one for a $800 S&W. Then I can pair it with the Norinco AK that shoots 1” groups at 100yds all day long. No reason to own other “junk” when you can own that kind of quality. There is always the exception but I was in business when Norinco came on the scene and had enough complaints from customers, over 1911s, that quit selling. Had some trouble with other low end clones at same time period. That was back in $99 AK days.

 

[Tmnguuyen]

Commi Combo

Maybe I have misjudged Norinco 1911. I may go back and contact the guy who wanted to trade one for a $800 S&W. Then I can pair it with the Norinco AK that shoots 1” groups at 100yds all day long. No reason to own other “junk” when you can own that kind of quality. There is always the exception but I was in business when Norinco came on the scene and had enough complaints from customers, over 1911s, that quit selling. Had some trouble with other low end clones at same time period. That was back in $99 AK days.

Good idea. The commies know how to make weapons. Here is my combo. The shotty was made in the USSR.

 

[BigBill]

Maybe I have misjudged Norinco 1911. I may go back and contact the guy who wanted to trade one for a $800 S&W. Then I can pair it with the Norinco AK that shoots 1” groups at 100yds all day long. No reason to own other “junk” when you can own that kind of quality. There is always the exception but I was in business when Norinco came on the scene and had enough complaints from customers, over 1911s, that quit selling. Had some trouble with other low end clones at same time period. That was back in $99 AK days.

I own different norinco products they all shoot great.

We need to start importing them again. The manufacturers here cried foul they can’t fight more competition. Who cares everything else comes from China.

 

[Qc Pistolero]

A few months ago I was offered 2 Norks in 9mm for $500(I live in Canada;they are still imported here).One is a copy of the Sig 226.The other a copy of the 1911.
I've owned a Sig 220 and a 226.The Nork groups as good(maybe a little better)than both Sigs.I shoot offhand at 20 and 35 yds and I think I'll keep it because it fits my hand good and groups average to good.
My 1911 gas a hard trigger but the thing groups good to very good.I think I'll make it a project.
Norks(and I've seen quite a few)are roughly finished but their functionning is very reliable.When you look at the value per dollar invested,they are top notch.
This comes from a guy who has a Combat commander('70s)and a Gold Cup.... granted in .45.If only they'd be made in Canada or US,they'd be closer to perfection!!!

 

[BigBill]

My norc had horizontal machine marks under the bluing on the feed ramp. I polished this ramp to a mirror finish.

Now I polish every feed ramp that’s not polished on every 1911 I get. My 1911’s all have the FLGR too. I’m using the 18# recoil spring.

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