Chrono data with target groups +

It's using a regular Lee seating/crimping die -not their factory crimp die- with seating screw all the way up. I seat and crimp with separate dies -Separate operations. Waywatcher - what do think about the chrono data above?
You gave me some good chrono advice in the other thread.:D

Chrono data is very good, I found it curious that the ES almost seemed inversely related to the group size, and that Avg. velocity didn't appreciably increase after 12.8 grains.

Looks like you found a good load for your revolver!
 
I went thru this phase a whole bunch of years ago
borrowed a Ransom Rest from my gunsmith,setup my chronograph
took several loads with different bullets and powder charges
analyzed the data
confirmed that the load I shot the best had nothing in common with my test results
considered the data interesting and continued to shoot the load I liked

I determined sometime later on that hard cast bevel base 38 bullets from bulk manufactures don't really shoot well
and that flat base hand cast bullets and HBWC do shoot well.
(I thought this was little known until I started reading on some cast bullet forum and it's very well known there)

try some hand cast flat base bullets at 50yds
I no longer fiddle with powder and charge weights
I use a well known load and concentrate on my shooting
basics, basics, bascis
 
I had the same design 125gr by HSM that shot better in my 38 snub over the 125 Xtreme Cow-Boy bullet for light target loads.......
never got them in the .357 as yet, for some odd reason.

I liked the bullet and it was easy to load and shot well, whats not to like?

Nice crimp.
 
While we're there -- is this a light, medium, medium-heavy or a heavy crimp??

This is just my opinion. But I rely more on neck tension than I do the crimp. My feeling is that 80% of the resisting force comes from the neck tension, 20% comes from the crimp. Just my WAG, so I don't have hard data other than setback measurements with pistol loads.

What I noticed with your picture of your crimp is that I can't see the bullet outline in the brass. I normally can always see the outline of how the bullet expanded the brass when it is seated. I use a Redding profile crimp and put a light to medium crimp on the brass. I try to maximize the case life by not crimping too heavily. I will post a picture of some loads I am putting together right now and you should be able to see the outline of the bullet easily.

I only mention this because it is something else to consider. To create strong neck tension I use a Lyman M expander and only let the bullet flare portion to enter the case about 1/32". I have to be careful setting the bullet on the case, but it leaves the maximum for neck tension.
 
I went thru this phase a whole bunch of years ago
borrowed a Ransom Rest from my gunsmith,setup my chronograph
took several loads with different bullets and powder charges
analyzed the data
confirmed that the load I shot the best had nothing in common with my test results
considered the data interesting and continued to shoot the load I liked

I determined sometime later on that hard cast bevel base 38 bullets from bulk manufactures don't really shoot well
and that flat base hand cast bullets and HBWC do shoot well.
(I thought this was little known until I started reading on some cast bullet forum and it's very well known there)

try some hand cast flat base bullets at 50yds
I no longer fiddle with powder and charge weights
I use a well known load and concentrate on my shooting
basics, basics, bascis

Where do you get flat base bullets? Any recommendations?
I have wanted to try them for awhile.
2400 and hard cast are fun and these
PENN BULLETS are excellent - but I've been getting my smallest groups with Hornady 158 grain swaged LSWC's over 5.0 grains of
Unique at 25 yards
 
Chrono data can be funny. I have seen loads with 300 FPS of ES that shot very well... at short range.

I must say that going for uniformity with all these inconsistencies is a bit challenging, but hey, if it were that easy - it wouldn't be as rewarding.
 
This is just my opinion. But I rely more on neck tension than I do the crimp. My feeling is that 80% of the resisting force comes from the neck tension, 20% comes from the crimp. Just my WAG, so I don't have hard data other than setback measurements with pistol loads.

What I noticed with your picture of your crimp is that I can't see the bullet outline in the brass. I normally can always see the outline of how the bullet expanded the brass when it is seated. I use a Redding profile crimp and put a light to medium crimp on the brass. I try to maximize the case life by not crimping too heavily. I will post a picture of some loads I am putting together right now and you should be able to see the outline of the bullet easily.

I only mention this because it is something else to consider. To create strong neck tension I use a Lyman M expander and only let the bullet flare portion to enter the case about 1/32". I have to be careful setting the bullet on the case, but it leaves the maximum for neck tension.

I'd be interested to see your loads. I have seen other's that show the bullet impression on the case - but mine never do????
Have to check into that!
 
Where do you get flat base bullets? Any recommendations?
I have wanted to try them for awhile.
2400 and hard cast are fun and these
PENN BULLETS are excellent - but I've been getting my smallest groups with Hornady 158 grain swaged LSWC's over 5.0 grains of
Unique at 25 yards

I cast my own 38 150gr SWC and 38 170gr SWC
I truly believe I can cast a much better bullet than I can buy.
Otherwise I wouldn't mess with it.
Where in the People's Republic of MD are you ?
I work in MD, live in WV panhandle
 
Where do you get flat base bullets? Any recommendations?
I have wanted to try them for awhile.

Rim Rock Bullets | Cast Lead Bullets ~ Right on target!

Their descriptions are short on words, but they are premium quality cast bullets; Buffalo Bore loads their bullets.

I load their 170 Keith FB in .38 special and get it cranked up to ~900fps at standard pressure :eek: :D in my 4" M15 using data from Lyman's 49th.
 
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I have a rather labor intensive reloading process. So I am not trying to get you to follow my process. When I start sizing, I run the brass all the way into a Lee CFCD, then I use a normal carbide sizing die and only go down past where the bullet will go (bullet seating depth). Next I use a Lyman M die to expand the neck. Then I powder, seat and crimp using a Redding profile crimp. But you can clearly see the bulge of the bullet due to the neck tension.

[URL=http://s860.photobucket.com/user/jepp2/media/NeckTension_zps004b8f2f.jpg.html] [/URL]
 
Some times I get case bulge from a bullet but 90% of the time the load looks ok...........

Depends on the case wall thickness, size collet used and the diameter of the bullet.
The old 160gr Speer SJSP bullet was one that I remember the most as bulging a case.

There are some "Fat" .358 dia. lead bullets out there now and then but some guns need that size, not all chambers and barrels are on a diet.
 
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