Cleaning 15-22

Tenn2

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Is it OK to dry fire the 15-22 just to release the firing pin after cleaning? I know you shouldn't practice doing this but how else can you do it?
Russ
 
Why is it okay to dry fire with the 15-22? I was told not too.

Same here. But since the bolt locks back on the last round of some guns you have to pull the trigger to release pressure on the spring. I was thinking that once during cleaning would not harm the gun?
 
Most manufacturers will say not to, more of a safety precaution for them to cover their rumps from not so safe folks playing cowboy in their house and shooting someone.

Old fire arms used old metallurgy and had problems. Newer parts are much stronger, and the fireing pin of the 15-22 has a pin through it that restricts movement.
 
Most manufacturers will say not to, more of a safety precaution for them to cover their rumps from not so safe folks playing cowboy in their house and shooting someone.

Old fire arms used old metallurgy and had problems. Newer parts are much stronger, and the fireing pin of the 15-22 has a pin through it that restricts movement.

So then, no harm done in dry firing during cleaning, or when you're feeling like a badass in your house when you gear up, but mostly when you clean...
 
Just don't dry fire it when bolt is out or upper is separated from the lower. You can damage the polymer having the hammer slam when it's not all together.

As for gearing up. I like the rule of "no drill running with live ammo in the same room" it keeps the oops factor low, and I use snap caps on drills anyway.
 
Thanks for the info.
Russ
 
Just don't dry fire it when bolt is out or upper is separated from the lower. You can damage the polymer having the hammer slam when it's not all together.

As for gearing up. I like the rule of "no drill running with live ammo in the same room" it keeps the oops factor low, and I use snap caps on drills anyway.

My ammo is locked in a safe, my guns are hanging on the wall above my computer. Makes my office look awesome.
 
If you do pull the trigger with the upper and lower separated just make sure to hold onto the hammer and gently let it move forward so that it doesn't slam forwards and do any damage.


It isn't going to hurt anything if you leave it stored with the hammer back, its the same as leaving magazines fully loaded. It won't put any extra stress on the springs.
 
Yeah, I've always been told to not dry-fire rimfire guns. Why would it be okay with the 15-22?


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The firing pin does not contact the breach or anything else that would do any damage on the 15-22. I can't speak for any other .22lr firearm.
 
I've been dry firing all my rifles and pistols for many, many years and have yet to have a single problem with a firing pin. My two match pistols have each been dry fired at least a couple of thousand times.

It's virtually impossible to learn trigger control on any particular firearm without dry firing.
 
I've been dry firing all my rifles and pistols for many, many years and have yet to have a single problem with a firing pin. My two match pistols have each been dry fired at least a couple of thousand times.

It's virtually impossible to learn trigger control on any particular firearm without dry firing.
Snap caps maybe?
 
According to Cheaper than Dirt:

"Rimfire rifles and pistols should never be dry fired. The reason is due to the design of rimfire chamber. When a rimfire firearm is dry fired, the striker hits the outside mouth of the chamber instead of the soft brass rim of the cartridge. This can not only damage or destroy your firing pin, but over time will peen the barrel face. Extensive peening can be so bad that ammunition will no longer chamber."

Dry Fire Practice - Is It Safe For Your Firearm?
 
On most newer made .22s the pin/bolt system is made so that the pin will not strike the face of the chamber. As is the 15-22.
 
Snap caps maybe?

Snap caps are fine for single shots and bolt actions - not so much for semi-autos unless you buy lot of them.

There's no definitive that I have ever read that says snap caps do anything to "save" firing pins.

Another product solution looking for a problem, IMHO, based on my shooting experience.
 
According to Cheaper than Dirt:

"Rimfire rifles and pistols should never be dry fired. The reason is due to the design of rimfire chamber. When a rimfire firearm is dry fired, the striker hits the outside mouth of the chamber instead of the soft brass rim of the cartridge. This can not only damage or destroy your firing pin, but over time will peen the barrel face. Extensive peening can be so bad that ammunition will no longer chamber."

Dry Fire Practice - Is It Safe For Your Firearm?

Good for CTD. If some retailer says something, it MUST be true. :)

That presupposes that the firing pin touches the breech face when the trigger is pulled. Virtually all modern rim fires have firing pins that are too short to reach the breech face, even when fully depressed. This includes the 15-22, whose firing pin is about 0.20" too short to reach the breech face.

I have eight .22s, both pistols and rifles, and NONE of them have any marks on the breech face from the firing pins and ALL have been extensively dry fired - in a couple of cases, several thousand times - and all have the original firing pins.

Do what you want, believe what you want - the actual evidence does not support CTD's contention.
 
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On most newer made .22s the pin/bolt system is made so that the pin will not strike the face of the chamber. As is the 15-22.

I agree with this but read your manual S&W 15-22 page 14 Caution: Never dry-fire the rifle as damage to the firearm could result. After cleaning with upper and lower open I slowly release the hammer then close the same.
I had tried to start a thread about what mfg's recomened but I guess no one wasinterested enought to check their manuals for different makes and brands.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/lounge/274488-22-rimfire-dry-fireing.html
 
I agree with this but read your manual S&W 15-22 page 14 Caution: Never dry-fire the rifle as damage to the firearm could result. After cleaning with upper and lower open I slowly release the hammer then close the same.
I had tried to start a thread about what mfg's recomened but I guess no one wasinterested enought to check their manuals for different makes and brands.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/lounge/274488-22-rimfire-dry-fireing.html

I read every manual I have from cover to cover.

There is no actual evidence to back this up the warning. It's CYA verbiage put in to satisfy liability attorneys - like the warning that ANYTHING but certain factory ammo will damage a firearm and/or void the warranty. This is most prevalent in the manuals for centerfire firearms. BTW, when such generic warning are written with no specific information, that's more proof to me that's it's just CYA verbiage. :)

Most experienced shooters take such notices with a healthy dose of salt, because actual experience says otherwise. It's a physical impossibility for a correctly functioning firing pin in a 15-22 to contact the breech face and damage anything.

Do what you want.
 
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Why not just close it with the hammer back, and if you are worried about dry fireing just pull the charging handle back pull the trigger and ease the hammer forward using the charging handle.
 
Snap-caps in centerfire guns give the firing pin some resistance to work against instead of the end of the pin bore...some say! Does it help longevity? Probably, but I'm thinking that any lifespan improvement is minuscule at best. Rimfire is a different kettle of cod! IF the firing pin does not in any way contact the breech face (as so many have said) then there is no harm in dry-firing a 15-22; but I try to use snap-caps in mine just because I'm a little paranoid from when they told us we didn't have to clean our M16's even after we had fired them (bad, BAD advice!).
Dry firing, or "snapping-in" is the best way I know to get the feel of a trigger without expending ammunition. The only gun I have that I will never dry-fire is a single-action Army because of the danger of hammer stress (I will use empty brass in it though). Every time I feel the need to practice my firing procedure and trigger drills without a range trip, I dry-fire without a second thought (usually).
 
As others have said you wont hurt anything, modern smiths are dimensioned to prevent it.

FYI dryfiring is a requirement when doing trigger group function check.
ie (with an unloaded gun)
On safe charge it pull trigger, hammer should not fall.
Select fire, pull trigger and hold to rear, hammer will fall. Charge again, while holding the trigger still and release trigger. You should hear and feel the trigger reset when you release the trigger. If it doesn't it means the hammer dropped with the trigger held and it can go full auto.
 
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I fully agree with Majorlk because it is hard to become a serious competition shooter without dry firing the heck out of whatever firearm you are using. The only firearms I caution about doing it with are newer Browning Buckmarks which do have FP long enough to peen the breech. Ones made before 2001 and using the older metal FP assembly do not have that issue, but many of the newer ones using the the polymer assembly do. Trying to upgrade an older one can make it possible also, just depends on individual Buckmarks and their tolerance variation.
 
I read every manual I have from cover to cover.

There is no actual evidence to back this up the warning. It's CYA verbiage put in to satisfy liability attorneys - like the warning that ANYTHING but certain factory ammo will damage a firearm and/or void the warranty. This is most prevalent in the manuals for centerfire firearms. BTW, when such generic warning are written with no specific information, that's more proof to me that's it's just CYA verbiage. :)

Most experienced shooters take such notices with a healthy dose of salt, because actual experience says otherwise. It's a physical impossibility for a correctly functioning firing pin in a 15-22 to contact the breech face and damage anything.

Do what you want.

I was just stating what manufactures state right or wrong it's ultimately up to each individual, If you dry fire and send firearm in for damage they will quote their manual that is why the have a warning to read the manual. I do dry fire some, only way to release hammer on some models I also use fired empty cases. Only problem I've had dry firing was with a .22 stud gun buggered up the chamber where the firing pin strikes but that wasn't a firearm.
 
this was straight from smith and wessons FAQ's section

Can I dry fire my S&W handgun?
Q: Can I dry fire my Smith & Wesson?

A: Yes, except for the .22 caliber pistols which includes models 22A, 22S, 422, 2206, 2214, 2213 and 41.

.22 caliber revolvers such as models 17, 43, 63, 317 and 617 also should not be dry fired.

Q: Why can't I dry fire my .22 pistol or revolver?

A: Dry firing a S&W .22 pistol or revolver will cause damage to the firing pin.
 
this was straight from smith and wessons FAQ's section

Can I dry fire my S&W handgun?
Q: Can I dry fire my Smith & Wesson?

A: Yes, except for the .22 caliber pistols which includes models 22A, 22S, 422, 2206, 2214, 2213 and 41.

.22 caliber revolvers such as models 17, 43, 63, 317 and 617 also should not be dry fired.

Q: Why can't I dry fire my .22 pistol or revolver?

A: Dry firing a S&W .22 pistol or revolver will cause damage to the firing pin.

That is specific to hand guns. Not saying anything one way or the other, just pointing out.
I dryfire on occation. Most of the time I will pull the charging handle part way back and then pull the trigger. Holds the bolt away from the breach. And there will be no interference.
 
A: Dry firing a S&W .22 pistol or revolver will cause damage to the firing pin.

I've had two S&W .22 pistols, a J-frame M34 and a K-frame M17 (still have the M34) and in neither case was it possible to make the firing pin hit the face of the charge hole - therefore, damage to the firing pin was/is impossible.

I can't speak to other S&W pistols, but every competitive shooter I've known who uses S&Ws has dry-fired them extensively.

Everyone do what they want in this regard, but so much of what is "prohibited" in firearms manuals is simply CYA verbiage put there by lawyers.
 
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