Cleaning a 22 Suppressor

RedNeck Jim

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I notice a couple of threads about suppressors going on now & one is starting to discuss cleaning. I am 5 months into my wait for my stamp for my 22Sparrow and would like to centralize the cleaning discussion.

So any help and pics would be appreciated. So how do you clean yours? What works & what doesn't? How clean is clean?
 
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A friend at AAC instructed me to soak the parts in mineral spirits, which works. I find it works better if the spirits are cut with about 10% Hoppe's No. 9. For pistol and rifle cans that do not allow disassembly, this works well. Soak them for a few hours and blow the residual fluid out with an air compressor.

22LR cans are a bit different. Due to the lead and powder build up, the baffles get coated with a very hard to remove film.

My own personal experience has been to let the parts soak for 8 to 10 hours and then scrub them off with a plastic cleaning brush. However, there is a caveat. The soaking solution turns rather caustic after this period of time.

Early on, I allowed all of the parts to soak (baffles, tube, and end caps). When I let them sit overnight, I found the paint had been dissolved on the bottom of the tube that was in contact with the sediment at the bottom of the soaking dish.

AAC was nice enough to refinish the exterior parts at no charge, but it was not a nice learning experience.

So needless to say, I now only soak the baffles, and clean the tube and end caps with some WD-40 or CLP.

Personally, I would like to find something that does a little better job removing the crud from the baffles than my current technique provides. So I will say tuned to this thread.
 
Google the dip for cleaning silencers.

Yes, I have done that & typical of most discussions, if you ask 10 people you end up with 10 different responses. Some say don't dip but use sonic cleaners... as the dip becomes toxic, I would assume from the lead residue.

How do you clean yours, Phil?
 
Looks like we must have sent our forms in about the same time. I'm also about 5 months into a wait for a Sparrow. Just called to check recently and it went pending January 8th, the operator said that should put it in my hands in July.

Since the Sparrow is stainless steel I'm under the impression it can be cleaned with a concoction of chemicals called "the dip" that I'd rather not expose myself to. Just so happens that over at NFATalk there is a thread talking about an inexpensive soda blaster. Check it out here: NFA Talk - Soda Blaster

On a similar note over there at NFATalk there is a thread about getting a group buy together on a Melonite treatment for the sparrow tubes. It seems that they are getting close to their minimum, which might actually be achieved before we receive our Sparrows. Still worth checking out that thread though. NFA Talk - Sparrow Melonite Treatment

Another quick thing, I understand that the dip and ultrasonic cleaning should not be used on aluminum. Shouldn't be a problem on the newer Sparrow since it's stainless steel. Also particularly high pressure blasting could damage the finish at leas on aluminum if not others.
 
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Another quick thing, I understand that the dip and ultrasonic cleaning should not be used on aluminum. Shouldn't be a problem on the newer Sparrow since it's stainless steel. Also particularly high pressure blasting could damage the finish at leas on aluminum if not others.

My understand in the external tube on the Sparrow is not stainless & care must be taken with it... basically remember it is not stainless. From what I understand, this is not an issue as the external tube doesn't get fouled with lead... just the stainless interior. I have read where some put all parts in the cleaner and damaged the exterior tube.
 
Some interesting links out there regarding "The Dip". Do you folks use 50% vinegar & 50% hydrogen peroxide... and do you use store bought HP or the stronger stuff from a pool supply? Also, some discussion on the toxic nature of the lead & the byproduct of the dip would be helpful. What do you do with the dip when you are done? You wear special gloves? You wear a respirator?
 
I'm looking for alternatives to the "Dip," as I would really prefer not having to deal with the disposal of the used solution.

Seems to me any cleaning will result in toxic byproduct. The lead by itself is exceeding dangerous & any chemical used, be it dip or otherwise, would be contaminated... wouldn't it?
 
My understand in the external tube on the Sparrow is not stainless & care must be taken with it... basically remember it is not stainless. From what I understand, this is not an issue as the external tube doesn't get fouled with lead... just the stainless interior. I have read where some put all parts in the cleaner and damaged the exterior tube.

That is true about the Sparrow having the external tube that shouldn't get as fouled up and need as much cleaning. But I think the entire thing is stainless. Their product sheet only lists SS in the materials: http://22sparrow.com/pdf/Silencerco-22Sparrow-White-Product-Sheet.pdf

Even if the outside tube isn't stainless, if you were to take advantage of the Melonite treatment that is being discussed at NFA Talk that would seem like a good investment to me. From that thread:

It gives it an incredibly hard surface, flat black in color and increased protection from rust. Its a durable enough surface that you can hit it with a file and the file will be damaged before the surface will.

You can paint on top of it, its a treatment to the metal not a paint.
 
Thank you. I have. I'm looking for alternatives to the "Dip," as I would really prefer not having to deal with the disposal of the used solution.

Seems to me any cleaning will result in toxic byproduct. The lead by itself is exceeding dangerous & any chemical used, be it dip or otherwise, would be contaminated... wouldn't it?

For me, I think I'll try the soda blaster. Cheap and easy. I'd wear a dust mask and safety glasses regardless of how I clean it. Also, baking soda will kill grass, according to some people in the NFATalk thread (their wives were less than happy about that).
 
For me, I think I'll try the soda blaster. Cheap and easy. I'd wear a dust mask and safety glasses regardless of how I clean it.

But what about the toxic lead that is being removed by the blasting? Where is that going... in your yard where the kids play?
 
How do you clean yours, Phil?

Maid service.:D

I just sent my Wraith to Yankee Hill for service. It's a sealed can. The first time I sent it in (around 25k rounds) they cleaned it up and sent it back free of charge. I just sent it in again at around 50k rounds. My guess is that they will charge me $100 for a new baffle. $100 every 50k rounds and not fool around with chemicals and scrubbing... works for me. Yankee Hill says to dunk their sealed can in mineral spirits overnight every 500rds. It don't work.

I am waiting for my stamp on a Sparrow. Should have it by... well... who knows?!? When I get it I'll revisit this thread and see what y'all have come up with. :)
 
But what about the toxic lead that is being removed by the blasting? Where is that going... in your yard where the kids play?

I don't understand your concern about "toxic lead" . If 99.9% of the lead comes out the muzzle and .1% stays in the supressor, what did you do with that 99.9% of the toxic lead? Why not pour the cleaning on the same berm you used to stop your bullets?
 
I am waiting for my stamp on a Sparrow. Should have it by... well... who knows?!?

Phil,

If you're interested in the Melonite treatment the vendor that is doing the work can receive from and return to your dealer the Sparrow with no additional paperwork/tax. Well, no additional ATF paperwork, just a work order.
 
I don't understand your concern about "toxic lead" . If 99.9% of the lead comes out the muzzle and .1% stays in the supressor, what did you do with that 99.9% of the toxic lead? Why not pour the cleaning on the same berm you used to stop your bullets?

Curious why you put toxic lead in quotes. Kinda makes it seem like you don't think lead is toxic. As a printer, I have to deal with lots of toxic chemicals and we have to have the proper equipment & controls for each. Most of our bullets are coated, so normal handling is not an issue. Also, most of us don't go hunt up the lead bullets & mess with them. However, with a suppressor, you get a buildup of lead & other toxins that has to be removed. That means dissolving this crud or scraping/blasting it.

Lead is exceedingly toxic, especially when it has been broken down into dust or liquified with a solvent (the dip). If anyone is blasting the lead off, I would highly recommend using proper controls... but that is just me. It is a free country & if you want to poison yourself or your yard, then go for it.
 
Phil,

If you're interested in the Melonite treatment the vendor that is doing the work can receive from and return to your dealer the Sparrow with no additional paperwork/tax. Well, no additional ATF paperwork, just a work order.

What's this about a melonite treatment? (Worried that it will be something I just gotta have :D)
 
Found these comments from an employee of the company that makes the Sparrow.

My name is Steve and I have just started here at SilencerCo working for Gary in sales. I am excited to get involved and be a part of a great and thriving company. I thought i would just take a minute to share my experience with cleaning the sparrow.

I have spent a lot of the last 2 days using different techniques to clean the Sparrow. From using break free COP and scrubbing the hell out of it to the Dip. I found the scrubbing doesn't get you very far. And that the Ultra-sonic cleaner did pretty well but still left all the led behind. I had the best results with the Dip. I checked it about every hour. You shouldn't need to clean the tube and the back cap, however if you do be careful with the dip and the ultra-sonic because it will take the black oxide off. It took about 3 hours sitting in the dip and then i pulled it right out and scrubbed on it a little bit and everything came either off in the dip or with a light scrub. It worked great and now i have a very clean can to go get dirty again.

Just remember with the dip to be very careful and use thick rubber gloves.
 
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