Cleaning a 22 Suppressor

Some of you people married weird women. :)

Tell me about it....for some reason my ex didn't find it funny when I would use the oven for cylinder sleeve removal or installation. She would get really POed if I put a set of cases in there to remove any bearings. :confused:
 
Used the tumbler method with the stainless pins on my 22Sparrow. I had around 500 rounds thru it, so it was not terribly dirty.

The tumbler did a pretty good job but it certainly didn't make it look like new. This pic shows what it looks like after 12 hours... 4 yesterday & 8 today. Think I will try the dip to remove the remaining residue.

suppressor.jpg
 
I just had Stalking Rhino Industries treat my Silencer Co. SS Sparrow with Melonite. I worry less now about the alloy tube rusting as fast when shot wet. I have no idea yet if it makes it easier to clean but I'm really liking how it came out.

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I just had Stalking Rhino Industries treat my Silencer Co. SS Sparrow with Melonite. I worry less now about the alloy tube rusting as fast when shot wet. I have no idea yet if it makes it easier to clean but I'm really liking how it came out.

Looking forward to having this done to my Sparrow as well. Hoping that SRI is getting closer to working on an integral setup for the 15-22 as well.
 
I have heard that sulfuric acid added to the lead acetate will precipitate out the lead. Once that happens the solution can be tossed and the lead sulfate thrown away. One could possibly read up on it a little more as I don't have all the facts. It still is toxic as hell.
 
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Since I run a printing company, we deal with toxic stuff all the time & have the services come by to pick it up. So a little chemistry experiment doesn't scare me.

It is bubbling away, as we speak. I'm thinking a 2 step process might not be such a bad idea. First tumble it to get off all the main stuff then dip to finish.
 
I've been working on cleaning the baffles from my AAC Pilot2 recently; they are anodized aluminum, so I am reluctant to tumble them. What I did recently was soak them in Hoppes9 for about a day, then scrubbed off the rest of the loead to about 90% clean.

I started to scrape off the remainder with a small screwdriver, but became leary of damaging the anodizing, so I stopped. 90% is good for now.

I found these two items today, and purchased the longer single pick to get off the last bit of lead when I am feeling picky (see what I did there?).

Amazon.com : Pro-Shot Brass Gun Pick Cleaning Tool : Hunting Cleaning And Maintenance Products : Sports & Outdoors@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21mFgGOB7lL.@@AMEPARAM@@21mFgGOB7lL

Amazon.com : Otis Technology Brass Scraper FG-932 : Gunsmithing Tools And Accessories : Sports & Outdoors@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41sjSSZOypL.@@AMEPARAM@@41sjSSZOypL
 
Another source for picks is your dentist. They replace their dental picks on a regular basis and most dentists have a drawer full of old ones. Most will give you two or three just to get rid of them. They are much better than fat picks for getting into tight spaces.

The plastic ones that Cabelas, Midway and others sell aren't worth a dime for actual cleaning.
 
That's what i did when i was 1SG at the TMC and the dental clinic was next door. went over and got picks just about daily. that was the year i retired and wound up with a tool box full!! still have over 50 today, last a long time and if you break one of the thinner ones, just cut it down and shape it to the shape you need for cleaning whatever. great tools to have.
If no dental clinic anywhere, harbor freight hast them cheap also.
 
If the brass tool doesn't meet my expectations, I'll look into the SS picks; they certainly are cheaper!
 
I just had Stalking Rhino Industries treat my Silencer Co. SS Sparrow with Melonite. I worry less now about the alloy tube rusting as fast when shot wet. I have no idea yet if it makes it easier to clean but I'm really liking how it came out.

Been meaning to ask, how did you do this? You have to submit new paperwork to the BATFE for the transfer there and back?

Seems like it would take many months for the 2 transfers.
 
Been meaning to ask, how did you do this? You have to submit new paperwork to the BATFE for the transfer there and back?

Seems like it would take many months for the 2 transfers.

Since they an are SOT paid manufacturer, you can send it back and forth without additional paperwork.
 
Since they an are SOT paid manufacturer, you can send it back and forth without additional paperwork.

You sure about this? I sure don't know, but from everything I have read, anytime a suppressor is transferred, the BATFE has to first approve. Even when a manufacturer transfers a suppressor to a SOT, there first has to be a form 3... then a form 4 for the SOT to give to an individual.
 
Stalking Rhino will all the details about shipping back and forth, but here's the basics from the NFA Handbook:

http://www.atf.gov/files/publications/download/p/atf-p-5320-8/atf-p-5320-8-chapter-9.pdf
Section 9.5 Conveyances of NFA firearms not treated as "transfers" under the NFA

9.5.1 Repair of firearms. ATF does not consider the temporary conveyance of an NFA firearm to an FFL for repair to be a "transfer" under the NFA. Thus, a transfer application is not required to convey the firearm for repair or to return the repaired fire arm to its owner/possessor. Nevertheless, in order to avoid any appearance that a "transfer" has taken place, ATF recommends that a Form 5 application be submitted for approval prior to conveying the firearm for repair. It is also recommended that the FFL making repairs obtain an approved Form 5 to return a repaired firearm. If Forms 5 are not used to convey a firearm for repair or return the repaired firearm to the owner, the parties should maintain documentation showing that the conveyance was for purposes of repair, identifying the firearm, and showing the anticipated time for repair. Approved Forms 5, or the recommended documentation, will show that an unlawful "transfer" did not take place and that the FFL making the repairs is not in
unlawful possession of the firearm. A non-FFL who proposes to transport a destructive device, machinegun, or short-barrel shotgun or rifle interstate to an FFL for repair should first obtain an approved ATF Form 5320.20 before transporting the firearm.

9.5.1.1 Repair of firearm silencers.
ATF published FAQs on April 17, 2008, regarding the repair and replacement of silencers and silencer components. These FAQs are published on the ATF website and are included in Appendix B.

And here's the silencer FAQ: Firearms - Frequently Asked Questions - National Firearms Act (NFA) - Silencers | ATF

Basically, a Form 5 is recommended but not required as long as there is other documentation. A silencer also doesn't require a form 5320.20, but other NFA items would.
 
Been meaning to ask, how did you do this? You have to submit new paperwork to the BATFE for the transfer there and back?

Seems like it would take many months for the 2 transfers.

I've sent my can to Yankee Hill for service. All they asked is that I include a copy of my tax stamp. They sent it back directly to my home.
 
I've sent my can to Yankee Hill for service. All they asked is that I include a copy of my tax stamp. They sent it back directly to my home.

But is sending a can to be coated considered repair or service? And is service a term the feds use... or is it just repair?
 
But is sending a can to be coated considered repair or service? And is service a term the feds use... or is it just repair?

Service or repair... never gave it any thought. One time they cleaned it, another time they put a new baffle in it. As long as the serialized part isn't being replaced, what difference does it make?
 
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As long as the serialized part isn't being replaced, what difference does it make?

Because, from what I understand, it is a felony to not retain control of the suppressor. On a Sparrow, the serial number is on the outer tube, and that too was sent off here.

I'm trying to figure out when it can be sent, and to whom, without prior approval from the feds. If they allow it to happen for a repair, to the proper party, then what constitutes a repair?

If one is sent to be coated or painted, do the feds consider that a repair and if not, is there some other provision, besides repair, that they allow such?

One might think I'm being picky here, but as you know, even the BATFE can give conflicting answers to some questions. And doing something they think is wrong will give you a free vacation in a federal facility.
 
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