Cleaning advice?

[442js]

I just picked up the 681 today, and it was in good condition except for the build up on the cylinder and forcing cone. I have been trying to clean it off with standard cleaner, but I still can't get it off. It looks like whoever owned the gun before never cleaned it.

Anyone have any suggestions on how to clean off all that junk?

Thank you.

 

[ctkenc]

Solvent

Use a heavy application of Hoppes # 9 and let it soak over night ... repeat as needed, especially around the forcing cone, where, you may also want to use a dental pick once the Hoppes has softened it.

For the Cylinder face get a Birchwood Casey Lead remover Cleaning Cloth that they make just for Stainless Steel and for removing that black residue .... and when you see black spots on that white cloth, do not think it is worn out ... just keep using it. It is very much like the cloths used to clean tarnish on silverware.

 

[dfariswheel]

There's only one way to really get the forcing cone clean, and that's to buy a Lewis Lead Remover Kit from Brownell's.

This is made to clean leading out of the bore, but part of the kit is a cone-shaped tip that's used to clean the forcing cone.
A brass screen is wrapped over the tip and pulled into the forcing cone with the Tee handle.
Just one or two turns removes all leading AND carbon fouling, leaving the cone perfectly clean.

LEWIS LEAD REMOVER - Brownells

 

[586nickel]

There's only one way to really get the forcing cone clean, and that's to buy a Lewis Lead Remover Kit from Brownell's.

This is made to clean leading out of the bore, but part of the kit is a cone-shaped tip that's used to clean the forcing cone.
A brass screen is wrapped over the tip and pulled into the forcing cone with the Tee handle.
Just one or two turns removes all leading AND carbon fouling, leaving the cone perfectly clean.

LEWIS LEAD REMOVER - Brownells

Awesome! Never seen that product. Watched the video -- very slick!

 

[jtmo3]

Boy, I don't know about you guys, but the guns I shot much (not ccw), that would be considered clean. That does not look that bad to me.

 

[442js]

Use a heavy application of Hoppes # 9 and let it soak over night ... repeat as needed, especially around the forcing cone, where, you may also want to use a dental pick once the Hoppes has softened it.

For the Cylinder face get a Birchwood Casey Lead remover Cleaning Cloth that they make just for Stainless Steel and for removing that black residue .... and when you see black spots on that white cloth, do not think it is worn out ... just keep using it. It is very much like the cloths used to clean tarnish on silverware.

Thanks, I will give that a shot before moving on to the suggestion of the lead remover product that was just mentioned.

 

[stevieboy]

+1 on the Birchfield-Casey gun cleaning cloth. It takes about 3-5 minutes of elbow grease but it should render the front of the cylinder pristine. As for the forcing cone, I agree that the Lewis Lead Removal tool is definitely the way to fly for the interior of the cone. Another way to get the interior clean is to use an oversize brush and to rotate it rather than attempting to pull it back and forth. For example, I've had excellent success using a .40 cal. brush on my .357s and .38s. I've also used a dental pick to scrape off any lumps of carbon that may remain after brushing.

For the exterior of the forcing cone, bronze wool + a dental pick work wonders. I take a small amount of bronze wool, roll it between my fingers to make a thick thread, then run it between the forcing cone and the topstrap as if I were using dental floss. Again, a dental pick can quickly scrape away any carbon residue that isn't rubbed off.

 

[Wheelgunner840]

I use Scotch-Brite (green) pads to clean off the face of the cylinders of stainless guns. Might remove bluing on the blued ones.


WG840

 

[TAROMAN]

#1 - Congratulations on scoring a GREAT revolver! My 681 is probably my favorite revolver.

#2 - All the above tips are good ones. many ways to skin a cat.
I would say enjoy shooting it and don't get too carried away trying to shine all those parts. It was only new once.

Personally, I soak everything well with Kroil, let it sit a few hours or even overnight and brush well. A bit of lead remover cloth is handy, too.
Mother's Mag Polish and an old t-shirt make a great combination to polish these up, too.

Shoot and enjoy!

 

[Smithhound]

Some good advice from others. Here is how I clean my SS revolvers.
Run patches soaked with Hoppes #9 thru barrel and chamber holes, let soak, run another and scrub in and out, careful not to drag the rod across the muzzle end. Follow that with a brush dipped into the Hoppes, give that a few in/out cycles, then another soaked patch. Now hit it all with dry patches till all traces removed of solvent. Now take a couple clean patches and use a Copper solvent, such as Shooters Choice and soak the bore and chambers. Let this sit for around 15 - 20 minutes and wipe dry with clean patches. DO NOT let this sit in the barrel/chambers for long, it can etch the steel (maybe not so much on SS but blued or nickled guns for sure) be sure to wipe dry ANY over spill or run off from the gun, just get it in the bore, copper solvents will ruin blueing or nickle.
Follow up the copper solvent bath with another of Hoppes #9 and dry again.
After the above take the aforementioned Lewis Lead cloth and cut patches from it, vigorously scrub the bore and chambers with a patch or three of the lead removal cloth. Now repeat the Hoppes bath, leaving out the brushing.
Check the bore and chambers and repeat untill happy.
The Hoppes will remove powder fouling and some leading from the barrel/chambers and the copper solvent will do the same for any build up of jacket material.
As for the fouling on the face of the cylinder, the Lead removal cloth works great there as well, much elbow grease and patience.
I've had good luck on the face of the cylinder using Flitz or another mild metal polish.
DON'T let the copper solvent remain in contact with the finish on blued or nickle guns, not even a little, I can't stress enough just how bad this can mar the finish on these guns.
DON'T let the copper solvent sit in the barrel for longer than 15 - 20 minutes, it is ammonia based and can affect the bore/chamber.
DON'T use a lead removal cloth on blued or nickled guns, it too will ruin a finish.
DO follow up this cleaning method with a light coat of oil in the bore and chambers, protect the bare metal, of course wipe this out before shooting again.
I'm kind of odd in that I actually enjoy cleaning my guns, gives me time to meditate and think about things.
Hope this helps.
RD

 

[AveragEd]

Iosso GunBrite polish (available from MidwayUSA) will clean the face of your cylinder quickly. It should not be used on blued guns, however, as it will eventually remove the bluing.

Back in the days before double-wall motorcycle head pipes, we used SimiChrome polish to remove the blue and gold coloration - I swear that GunBrite is the same stuff. Same color, same smell, same performance.

Ed

 

[carl3989]

Sounds like the cat's meow.

There's only one way to really get the forcing cone clean, and that's to buy a Lewis Lead Remover Kit from Brownell's.

This is made to clean leading out of the bore, but part of the kit is a cone-shaped tip that's used to clean the forcing cone.
A brass screen is wrapped over the tip and pulled into the forcing cone with the Tee handle.
Just one or two turns removes all leading AND carbon fouling, leaving the cone perfectly clean.

LEWIS LEAD REMOVER - Brownells

Thanks, you sir have performed a service to the members of this forum. I didn't even know this device existed and promptly ordered it from Brownells. I hope it fits my 460vxr.

 

[442js]

Use a heavy application of Hoppes # 9 and let it soak over night ... repeat as needed, especially around the forcing cone, where, you may also want to use a dental pick once the Hoppes has softened it.

For the Cylinder face get a Birchwood Casey Lead remover Cleaning Cloth that they make just for Stainless Steel and for removing that black residue .... and when you see black spots on that white cloth, do not think it is worn out ... just keep using it. It is very much like the cloths used to clean tarnish on silverware.

Unfortunately Hoppes didn't work too well. Forcing cone a little better. Cylinder face is also still a disaster, but not surprising since no one suggested Hoppes for that. Will move on to something stronger.

 

[442js]

Boy, I don't know about you guys, but the guns I shot much (not ccw), that would be considered clean. That does not look that bad to me.

Forcing cone isn't too bad. But the cylinder is horrible. When I first saw it I thought the 681s came like that from the factory until I realized it wasn't a feature but someone not cleaning up the gun after use.

 

[johnjeff]

Before going to something strong, keep in mind the Safety and Instruction Manual states "Ammoniated solvents or other strong alkaline solutions should not be used on any Smith & Wesson firearm."

 

[USAF385]

The first handgun that I bought was a 681! I love that gun!! I don't carry it all that often... only in the winter and fall when I wear a coat of some sort, but I shoot it monthly at least.

I keep both of those areas nice and clean with an old soft bristle tooth brush and some hoppes. Gentle scrubbing takes that crud off and leaves the finish looking just fine. If it's real stubborn I'll even use some remington bore cleaner.

 

[442js]

Before going to something strong, keep in mind the Safety and Instruction Manual states "Ammoniated solvents or other strong alkaline solutions should not be used on any Smith & Wesson firearm."

I decided to get the cleaning cloth that was previously mentioned. The forcing cone isn't spotless, but this gun will never be in ANIB condition. I just want it reasonable clean so the gun could shoot well. If the cleaning cloth works on the cylinder like people suggested, I will be happy. I just want all that buildup off the cylinder.

 

[442js]

The first handgun that I bought was a 681! I love that gun!! I don't carry it all that often... only in the winter and fall when I wear a coat of some sort, but I shoot it monthly at least.

I keep both of those areas nice and clean with an old soft bristle tooth brush and some hoppes. Gentle scrubbing takes that crud off and leaves the finish looking just fine. If it's real stubborn I'll even use some remington bore cleaner.

I think once I get all that build up off, I will go to my standard cleaning procedure but my standard cleaning procedure isn't getting this build up off the cylinder.

 

[442js]

I tried the cleaning cloth that was recommended, and it did a good job of getting rid of most of the build up. I could do such a good job with the build up by the extractor since the extractor kept chewing up the cloth.

Since the cloth isn't supposed to be used on blue guns, what do you guys recommend? I have a .38 M&P from 1909 that also has some build up that I would like to remove, but I don't want to use this cleaning/polishing cloth since it isn't recommended for blue guns (or in my case, plum).

Thanks!

 

[john3136]

Anyone tried those stainless steel kitchen wipes you can get on the outside of a SS gun?
I'm sure it's more expensive than proper cleaning methods, just wondering if you'd get anything back for the $$? For example, the ads say they help stop finger marks on your SS appliances. Logic says they should help stop finger marks on your SS guns...

...If you believe the ads...

 

[illgtncarb]

Keep in mind some of that black on the cylinder face may actually be bluing brought about by the heat of combustion. I have used "Blue Away" before with great results...just don't get it near a blued gun, stainless only! Also the Lewis lead remover has been in my gun cleaning kit for almost 20 years. There is nothing like it for getting out lead fouling from a barrel. One last thing, those wooden handled toothbrush looking things with the brass bristles when used gently can work wonders.

I have to jump in with an edit, as I stupidly missed the pics you included. There is no doubt the cylinder face is blued from the heat. Get yourself a bottle of Blue Away (small, a little dab'll do ya') and your gun will be looking new in no time.

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eshew obfuscation

 

[hunter3705]

There's a solvent called Ballistol that's so superior to anything else I've ever used that there's no comparison. It cleans well, and makes the gun easier to clean in future cleanings. Midway carries it. Now, having said that, it's very difficult to get that area of any stainless revolver looking really clean - they way you'd like it to look. I've sort of learned to get the lead residue (completely) off of the cylinder, and all the copper residue (completely) out of the barrel about every two or three cleanings. If you try to get a stainless revolver looking factory new every time you fire it, you'll get to the point where you won't even want to shoot it.

 

[442js]

Keep in mind some of that black on the cylinder face may actually be bluing brought about by the heat of combustion. I have used "Blue Away" before with great results...just don't get it near a blued gun, stainless only! Also the Lewis lead remover has been in my gun cleaning kit for almost 20 years. There is nothing like it for getting out lead fouling from a barrel. One last thing, those wooden handled toothbrush looking things with the brass bristles when used gently can work wonders.

I have to jump in with an edit, as I stupidly missed the pics you included. There is no doubt the cylinder face is blued from the heat. Get yourself a bottle of Blue Away (small, a little dab'll do ya') and your gun will be looking new in no time.

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eshew obfuscation

Thanks. I will take a look at Blue Away.

 

[442js]

There's a solvent called Ballistol that's so superior to anything else I've ever used that there's no comparison. It cleans well, and makes the gun easier to clean in future cleanings. Midway carries it. Now, having said that, it's very difficult to get that area of any stainless revolver looking really clean - they way you'd like it to look. I've sort of learned to get the lead residue (completely) off of the cylinder, and all the copper residue (completely) out of the barrel about every two or three cleanings. If you try to get a stainless revolver looking factory new every time you fire it, you'll get to the point where you won't even want to shoot it.

Tell me about. I got the gun looking pretty good now except for that small part of the cylinder. I don't shoot as much as I like so the gun might be sitting for a few months so it is cleaned up pretty well. It took me a good hour or two to clean up the few guns I brought to the range this weekend. Pain in the neck to clean, but they certainly look much better now.

 

[texasj]

Hoppes elite and a bronze brush.