How often should casings be cleaned prior to reloading? Is this a step that should always be taken or is it more for clean looking reloads? I'm thinking that one benefit of doing it is that it will help keep your reloading equipment cleaner.
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Cleaning casings
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oneounceload
Member
I clean them after every use in a dry mix of walnut and corncob expressly for the reason you stated, so as not to muck up the inside of my dies.
Clean Brass
Bottle-necked rifle cases are much easier to full-length resize if the cases are cleaned prior to sizing.
I clean my handgun cases to insure that no grit is present that might scratch the die. All brass is easy to clean by soaking in very hot water using liquid dishwashing detergent (the kind used in dishwashers), mixed with Lemishine, another dishwashing product. Then, allow the brass to thoroughly air dry. If in a hurry, you may bake them. You may also tumble the brass.
Bottle-necked rifle cases are much easier to full-length resize if the cases are cleaned prior to sizing.
I clean my handgun cases to insure that no grit is present that might scratch the die. All brass is easy to clean by soaking in very hot water using liquid dishwashing detergent (the kind used in dishwashers), mixed with Lemishine, another dishwashing product. Then, allow the brass to thoroughly air dry. If in a hurry, you may bake them. You may also tumble the brass.
DumpStick
US Veteran
I started reloading in the late 1980's. For several years, I merely wiped the brass off with a rag, and loaded. I used carbide dies, and never had a problem.
Keep in mind, this was handgun only.
Then, I started washing the brass first - hot water and dish soap. Rinse, set out in the sun to dry, reload.
After a few years, I traded into a lot, which included a vibratory tumbler. I've been using it ever since. I still wash the brass first, it gets off the majority of the oogies, and helps the tumbler media last longer.
So, my answer to your question is - as often as you feel is necessary.
Keep in mind, this was handgun only.
Then, I started washing the brass first - hot water and dish soap. Rinse, set out in the sun to dry, reload.
After a few years, I traded into a lot, which included a vibratory tumbler. I've been using it ever since. I still wash the brass first, it gets off the majority of the oogies, and helps the tumbler media last longer.
So, my answer to your question is - as often as you feel is necessary.
elpac3
Member
Started using SS pins and tumbling about three years ago - never looked back since. Cases are clean, saves wear on the dies, helps to be able to pick out defects in the brass.
Yes - it does add an extra step, yes - it does take more time but - - - - I have the time and like working with factory new looking brass.
Yes - it does add an extra step, yes - it does take more time but - - - - I have the time and like working with factory new looking brass.
Ivan the Butcher
Member
Why clean the cases? The only reason we HAVE to clean cases, is to remove dirt and abrasive matter and any corrosive chemicals from old primers or Black Powder. The "dark" powder fouling from even the dirtiest smokeless powder is actually carbon, which is a dry lubricant.
The disadvantage to "Super Brand New" cleaning, like Wet Stainless Pins and Sonic is the inside is so clean, it can stick to a progressive press's powder funnel!
Personally, I like the super shiny brass, It is easier to find on the ground!
Ivan
The disadvantage to "Super Brand New" cleaning, like Wet Stainless Pins and Sonic is the inside is so clean, it can stick to a progressive press's powder funnel!
Personally, I like the super shiny brass, It is easier to find on the ground!
Ivan
old&slow
Member
I always clean the brass before reloading.
Crushed walnut hulls and about a 1/3 to 1/2 of a shot glass of 50/50 mix of Nu-Finish car wax and odorless mineral spirits in the vibrator for a couple hours. Makes the brass nice and pretty..
Plus it makes it easier for my old eyes to pick out defective brass, read headstamps,, etc.
A buddy uses a little cement mixer he purchased from Harbor Frieght. A little noisy but it does a nice job and you can do a bucket of brass at a time..
Crushed walnut hulls and about a 1/3 to 1/2 of a shot glass of 50/50 mix of Nu-Finish car wax and odorless mineral spirits in the vibrator for a couple hours. Makes the brass nice and pretty..
Plus it makes it easier for my old eyes to pick out defective brass, read headstamps,, etc.
A buddy uses a little cement mixer he purchased from Harbor Frieght. A little noisy but it does a nice job and you can do a bucket of brass at a time..
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cowboy4evr
Member
The only time I have ever cleaned brass was when I was given a bag full of range brass . I have been reloading for many a year shooting mostly revolvers and have yet to really clean my brass . Just a quick wipe down before resizing , sometimes . Regards, Paul
Clean brass loads easier, won't scratch your loading dies, won't get dirty looks by other shooters. I wouldn't think of putting dirty brass in a loading die.
In order to save my pistol brass out of my 9mm auto, I have to
shoot outdoors and pick my cases up from the desert floor.
So this brass needs a cleaning when it gets home.
My revolver and rifle bolt actions just get a wipe down and a cleaner..........
if real dirty, they will get the walnut rub down.
Even brass that does not hit the ground is dirty.....
Just depends on what you think is needed for you next loading adventure.
shoot outdoors and pick my cases up from the desert floor.
So this brass needs a cleaning when it gets home.
My revolver and rifle bolt actions just get a wipe down and a cleaner..........
if real dirty, they will get the walnut rub down.
Even brass that does not hit the ground is dirty.....
Just depends on what you think is needed for you next loading adventure.
1sailor
Member
I've had the same issues with stainless pinned brass as Ivan the Butcher (post #7). They look great but they can be a real bear when the neck is flared on my Turret press.
Erich
Member
I'd expect your cases pick up sand the way mine do out here in the high desert (much different from when I'd shoot back at the range in Indiana in the Eighties), so I would agree with you that cleaning is beneficial to your reloading equipment's continued health.
I tumble my cases in a bunch of rice - rice dust gets on them and seems to "slicken them up" some, but the grit is gone. Every so often (depending on how dirty they're getting with my loading and range conditions) I'll chunk a bunch of particularly grimy cases into a large laundry soap jug (there's always a bit of soap left in there), fill it with water and agitate the heck out of it. Then I'll rinse the cases in a bucket and leave them to dry on newspaper on my driveway pad under our arc lamp New Mexico sun - they're always dry in an hour, and they look great.
fredj338
Member
As noted, it is about NOT putting grit into your reloading dies. Cases just need to be clean though, factory shiny new is a bonus, curse at times. For years I just rolled my empties in a damp towel. I only loaded 100rds of 357mag a week. Then I went to a dry tumbler, just easy & if you add a polish, it leaves a thin coating that helps in sizing. Wet cleaning is fine, but IMO< they are too clean & really make things more diff during reloading & powder charging on a progressive.
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I handloaded for decades without ever cleaning brass. Never had a problem.
A while back I picked up a wet tumbler. I confess I do like the look of shiny, fresh ammo. But as far as I'm concerned it's purely cosmetic.
The last thing I'd want a potential new reloader to think is that a brass cleaning system is a requirement for handloading. It's not.
A while back I picked up a wet tumbler. I confess I do like the look of shiny, fresh ammo. But as far as I'm concerned it's purely cosmetic.
The last thing I'd want a potential new reloader to think is that a brass cleaning system is a requirement for handloading. It's not.
dannyabear
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After tumbling with ss pins and after drying, I run my cases theu corn cob with nu finish polish; it keeps them from tarnishing and sticking in the dies
falloutboy89
Member
I've only reloaded Shotshell to date... haven't even purchased a reloader for pistol/rifle yet but I have started to clean my brass. It's mostly what I've been able to save the last few years from myself and friends. This is good information for me. So thank you. I've been depriming my brass and using an RCBS UltraSonic II Cleaner with their case cleaner solution. I got a good deal on it on eBay and figured my brass has been sitting around for a few years so why not. Hopefully by the time I decide on a reloader all my brass will be cleaned...
Cleaning brass is prolly the most talked about part of reloading and the least important. Ninety-eight percent of brass cleaning is just cosmetic, and new reloaders are lead to believe it's an essential part of reloading, it ain't. It is just a personal preference. I'm not anti-tumbling, but I do object to new reloaders being told tumbling is a necessary part of reloading and they needs to spend $$$ just to get started.
FWIW I reloaded for 12 years without tumbling any brass (this was pre-web so I didn't know I had to tumble). Since case inspection is an essential part of reloading and usually done first, I just wiped my brass with a solvent dampened rag as I inspected it. In those 12 years I did not ruin, scratch, gunk up any dies, and my handloads were as good/safe/accurate as any.
I've got a story of some reloaders I watched at a range back when, whose reloads were brown and their groups very small...
FWIW I reloaded for 12 years without tumbling any brass (this was pre-web so I didn't know I had to tumble). Since case inspection is an essential part of reloading and usually done first, I just wiped my brass with a solvent dampened rag as I inspected it. In those 12 years I did not ruin, scratch, gunk up any dies, and my handloads were as good/safe/accurate as any.
I've got a story of some reloaders I watched at a range back when, whose reloads were brown and their groups very small...
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