Ultrasonic case cleaning

I use the wet with pins system then rinse in water in a rcbs media removing tub, then dry in a used air fryer I bought from Marketplace.
About 225* for about 20 minutes gets it done.
 
The purpose for cleaning brass is to remove any grit, grime, bullet lube, etc. so that the brass is clean and smooth to the touch and nothing adheres to the brass that would scatch a sizing die.

I've used a tumbler or vibratory machine for over forty years, always with corncob or walnut hull media. I've tried additives, but they aren't necessary and I no longer use them. I used to clean brass for several hours but have found that twenty to thirty minutes is more than adequate.

My method won't appeal to many, I'm sure, but it works very well and frees up a lot of time for handloading and shooting.
 
I started with Treated Walnut shell ... the dry way .

Fell for the new improved Wet cleaning ... pins , water and various additives ... But I didn't care for the extra Drying Wet cases step .

It is so much easier to remove them dry from the dry media ...
Shake 'em off and done ,,, ready to load ...
And no water mess all over my bench ...

Came full circle ... back to Dry with Midway USA Treated Walnut Shell Media ... Frankford Arsenal ... it is cheap , the right size ... and treated with the correct brass polish (Ammonia Free) a large bag 7 pounds , sells for $15 ... this stuff beats Pet Bedding , Lizard Litter and Sandblasting Media , grits , rice , kitty litter ...anything you can think of ! ...
... Seven Ways To Sunday and then some ...
Try it if you want to do it dry ... makes a huge difference in how your brass comes out !
Gary
 
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Explosive possibility

I use walnut media only and just like a clean
outer case. Too much fuss with Pins and Liquid.

One thought does come to mind is with Rifle
cases and dissimilar metals; with the inside
necks cleaned down to bare brass and a
clean bullet of basically unknown composition
to us, is loaded into it, what about bullet wield
(when the two different metals wield on to each
other)?

I’ve only seen this once. It was with factory
commercial loaded cartridges, which
I’m sure was clean bare metal on metal.
I tried to take them apart and some were
nearly impossible, and one bullet wouldn’t come out.

I can’t imagine the pressure if it was shot. Luckily I
followed a gut feeling I had.
 
Stick with the vibratory tumbler. Rotary cleaners with steel pins in a cleaning solution will get your brass too clean, especially the insides of the case necks.
 
can you use the various media refreshers for walnut shells to do an ititial treat on lizard bedding? I can get crushed walnut shells dirt cheap in bulk.
 
I only clean very dirty cases, especially ones that have been in the dirt. When I started doing 9mm I was having problems with tumbled cases sticking in the carbide dies. I contacted Lee and the tech advised me to let case with a light coating of soot go with out cleaning. The soot acts a lube.
I tried it and it solved 99% of my problem.
 
Thanks for all the informative replies, just what I needed to know. I think for now I'll stick with my old Lyman vibratory tumbler.

Good decision. If you run out of things to do in the future you can always get into the ritualistic cleaning methods.
 
I run my brass through an Ultrasonic cleaner followed by a vibratory tumbler when dry to polish. I have tried many solutions and use Dawn dish detergent and citric acid.
One of the biggest benefits of the ultrasonic cleaning is that it is very easy to tell if a case got a charge of powder when loading on a progressive press.
I also have always liked to load with clean shiny brass.
 
I have a few Lyman Turbo Tumblers and a ulstrasonic cleaner.

I use the ultrasound for small parts cleaning and O2 cleaning regulators.

I’ve tried it on cases but it’s slow, and frankly tedious with the drying process. Plus I’ve never seen any ballistic difference with cases that are clean versus powder sooted on the inside, even in precision rifle reloads.

The Harbor Freight cleaner is fine. It’s the same cleaner that’s rebranded by a couple different reloading companies it’s just half the price.
 
Call me a nit-picker if you like but with most everything I shoot I run it through the ultra sonic to get the primer pockets and interior then through a vibrator to get the cases "pretty". I have friends that rarely even go to the trouble of vibrating their cases, just reload and shoot til they don't work or split or whatever. Black powder is a lot of trouble to shoot in a cartridge, I knock my primers out on the bench, toss the cases in a bucket with simple green and hot water, at the end of the event I give them a good shake and swirl. When I get home I usually put everything away, take the can downstairs and while running hot water over the cases I shot I run a bristle brush down the case to scrub out the residue. Then they go into the ultra sonic cleaner, summer is nice because I take them outside and air dry on a towel overnight before running them through the vibrator.
To me the entire shooting process is important from purchasing the firearm, to cleaning and maintaining. This also pertains to reloading and as an old boy once pointed out "If your not casting your own bullets your not really reloading, just parts replacing."
This type of thinking got me into muzzle loading more than anything else, each individual shot is different and unless a strict sequence of events is followed accuracy can suffer.
I used to weigh the black powder I used in a cartridge rifle until an old timer asked me "How many grains of powder does it take to truly show a difference on target." I told him that it usually takes at least 5grains to produce a different group with the same sight picture, usually done in damp weather (increase). He asked me what type of powder measure I use for black powder and I told him an old Belding and Mull, he then told me to try weighing charges to see how far off they were charge to charge, it was rarely more than a couple tenths of a grain. Again it was all about consistency, do everything the same way, everytime...that is key. DO NOT GET DISTRACTED.
In the end its not about how much trouble doing something is its about what you get out of it, what else are you going to do with your time? I've got other things to do, shooting is something I like to do and anything worth doing is worth doing well.
 
I use the Hornady case cleaner in an ultrasonic cleaner. An occasional spritz of case lube on the brass keeps everything running smoothly.
The results aren't as pretty as using pins or media but I don't care. The cases have to be left out in the sun or run through an oven cycle to ensure they are dry, no different than using pins.
 
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