Cleaning lead from 617 top strap: How do you do it?

SAWMAN

Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2012
Messages
149
Reaction score
85
I was cleaning my 617 this morning after a nice weekend of shooting. (First time to the range - Absolutely love the gun!)

I am curious if anyone has any tips or tricks to cleaning the lead residue around the forcing cone and top strap?

I flattened a brass 38 special cartridge case and used it to scrap the majority of it away and then used a copper brush. Seemed to work pretty well, but does anyone have something that works better?

I was also thinking of giving it a couple coats of Ren Wax to see if that would help prevent buildup, anybody uses something else?
 
Register to hide this ad
I use a bronze GI toothbrush and scraper, but mine's a flattened .223.
 
I use a sponge tool soaked in Ballistol. I wet the area down really good and leave it for a few hours. Come back at it with a soft cloth and a tooth brush and it works fine. I'm kind of fastidious though and clean my guns every time I shoot so the build up isn't horrible.
 
I use mothers polish and a microfiber towel.It takes the lead right off and leaves a nice shine all at once.

Mothers is my secret weapon, that stuff can work magic!

I'm a bit OCD (Or as some point out CDO because the letters should be in alphabetical order) about my guns. I am extremely meticulous and thoroughly clean after every range session.

Thanks for all the great ideas!
 
I usually wait until it's pretty bad, so I find that softening the fouling by soaking with Hoppe's #9 works best. I remove the cylinder (not necessary but easy enough to do on a S&W) and invert the revolver in padded jaws on my bench vise, tilting the barrel down slightly. Then I use an eyedropper to "fill" the area between the barrel extension and the top strap with Hoppe's. (Surface tension keeps quite a lot of solvent in place). I usually leave it untouched overnight, then scrape away with my flattened .223 brass the next day. If I don't get it all in one pass, I'll soak it overnight again and it usually comes off completely the 2nd time. Maybe finish up with a patch and brass brush.

I find that Hoppe's really softens the fouling quite a bit IF you give it enough time to work.

Lou
 
To really get in there, I will tear off small strips of lead away cloth and wrap them around a toothpick or bamboo skewer and then scrape with the tip/sides.
Bamboo chopsticks (cut to make sort of a chislely point) and the smaller skewers are really good for getting
into the nooks and crannies. I wet the area down with "gray" Archoil first, and let it sit a bit.
Gets that spot above the forcing cone nice and clean.
I use the "gray" Archoil to clean, and the "white" to keep the buildup to a minimum. Archoil is a nano-tech lube.
 
Last edited:
Turpentine does an excellent job of removing lead.

I usually use PineSol. Works great as a bore cleaner after shooting lead bullets. I usually add just a little turpentine, but not sure it is necessary.

Does not do much for copper fouling though.
 
attachment.php



Like many have said; this is the ticket.
 

Attachments

  • DSC_0226.jpg
    DSC_0226.jpg
    126.4 KB · Views: 242
Haven't heard of that gun cleaner before. What is "Soda blaster"? I'm always looking for easier ways to clean my guns!

Thanks,
Lou

Basically a sand blaster but you use cheap baking soda instead of sand/glass beads. You can get a cheap hand held model from harbor freight for less than $20.00. I built a hand held to clean suppressor baffles-removes lead in short order. Last time I cleaned my 640 and 686 CS-1 I used the blaster and it makes them look like new in a couple seconds.
 
Back
Top