cleaning lub inside the revolver ???

[Sharpshooter82]

I have a smith 686 and i took of the side plate to check to see if everything was in order. I clean the revolver using bore tech carbon remover and after doing so, the action felt a little abit rough. I looked inside it and it looks like either there is oil in there or some cleaning fluid in there??? here is a photo
does it look ok ?
should i take everything apart and clean it ?

 

[murphydog]

Doubt you have to disassemble it, just use your favorite gun cleaner (aerosol brake cleaner works well also), lightly re-lubricate the moving parts and you should be good to go.

 

[Sharpshooter82]

just to add, the action feels totally normal today. However i dont know if there is too much oil or if its cleaning fluid in there ?

 

[H Richard]

The picture looks "Dry". It needs a few drops of lube in the right places.

 

[glowe]

I have owned and maintained shotguns, rifles, and revolvers for most of my life and have always ran everything wet, using aerosol lubricants and/or gun oil lightly over the entire mechanism. To me, brake cleaner strips out every speck of lubricant/rust protector and a few drops on moving parts, leaves the rest of the frame and parts dry and prone to rusting.

In my opinion, one of the best shotguns ever made, the Remington 1100, got a bad reputation after it was widely recommended that the mechanism should run dry, so as not to attract burnt powder, dust, and debris. For me, the opposite was what this shotgun needed, and have never had any function issues with the ones I have owned since my first, bought in 1973. Of course, cleaning and re-oiling should be done periodically on all firearms to avoid excessive wear on moving parts.

 

[Sharpshooter82]

The picture looks "Dry". It needs a few drops of lube in the right places.

its not dry, there is oil in there, however i swear i can smell cleaning solvent in there as well

 

[Rule3]

its not dry, there is oil in there, however i swear i can smell cleaning solvent in there as well

Spray it out with Brake Kleen(or carb cleaner) , then a few drops of oil.

 

[Autonomous]

If you must use brake cleaner make sure it is non-chlorinated, especially with stainless steel guns.

 

[Sharpshooter82]

If you must use brake cleaner make sure it is non-chlorinated, especially with stainless steel guns.

gun scrubber ? to be honest i would rather take all part and clean it correctly if thats what needed. After watching few videos on taking it part it doesnt seem to bad.

i dont know if by using bore tech carbon remover which is very thin water based, has got into the internal works of the guns or just oil in there ? see photo.

 

[Nevada Ed]

One of the video's of a S&W gun tech, stated that he oil/lubed and then
wiped everything off
and left just a very light film of oil on the frame and moving parts.

There was no build up or "Bumps" of oil on any of the metal parts.

His main concern was using the correct tools, not scratching the revolvers surface and the correct way to remove and put back the side plate, without damage to the gun.

As a GM in the Navy, oil was applied and removed with a dry patch and only
a heavy grease, was applied to "Heavy" work areas, to prevent wear and smooth functioning.

Oil is a good thing for working parts, but cleaners are for the bores and actions, to remove any chemicals that come into contact with the metals.

 

[chief38]

Looks like it's rusted a bit too. The truth is you've got the Side-plate off already and removing the rest of the parts is a 2 minute job or less if you know how. If not, I'd say this is a good time to learn as it is easy enough to do and is really in need of a good cleaning! Watch some good video's on Midway, Brownells, Youtube, etc. or get one of your shooting friend's with experience to show you how. Don't force anything, take you time and think before doing.

IMHO the inside should get a thorough scrubing with a stiff nylon toothbrush and Hoppy's, #9, blown out with an air compressor, lightly oiled and reassembled. IMO just squirting some lubricant in there is not enough in this case and is only a short term "bandaide".

Many are intimidated on disassembly but being that we live in our current anti-gun climate, good Gunsmiths are hard and expensive to find, learning at your own pace is prudent, economical, not that hard and quite satisfying. OK - I do not know you and if you are the type with "two left thumbs" and not good with tools, disregard what I have posted and bring it to a qualified GS if you can find one. It should not be an expensive job and shouldn't take more than 30 - 45 minutes to complete.

 

[Sharpshooter82]

Looks like it's rusted a bit too. The truth is you've got the Side-plate off already and removing the rest of the parts is a 2 minute job or less if you know how. If not, I'd say this is a good time to learn as it is easy enough to do and is really in need of a good cleaning! Watch some good video's on Midway, Brownells, Youtube, etc. or get one of your shooting friend's with experience to show you how. Don't force anything, take you time and think before doing.

IMHO the inside should get a thorough scrubing with a stiff nylon toothbrush and Hoppy's, #9, blown out with an air compressor, lightly oiled and reassembled. IMO just squirting some lubricant in there is not enough in this case and is only a short term "bandaide".

Many are intimidated on disassembly but being that we live in our current anti-gun climate, good Gunsmiths are hard and expensive to find, learning at your own pace is prudent, economical, not that hard and quite satisfying. OK - I do not know you and if you are the type with "two left thumbs" and not good with tools, disregard what I have posted and bring it to a qualified GS if you can find one. It should not be an expensive job and shouldn't take more than 30 - 45 minutes to complete.

thanks, i might go down this route, yer after studying a few videos it does not seem hard. I have changed out hammer on my AR easily. I have even got a trigger rebound spring remover tool by gunsmither.