I ordered a new Model 19 no lock. What cleaner/oil do you recommend to use on the new blued revolvers? Hoppe's, CLP, Remington? Do I use the same in the bore and on the outside? Anything I need to avoid using? I've used Hoppe's in the bore and CLP on the outside in the past. I typically use an old shirt to wipe down. I just don't want to damage the new bluing.
Cleaning new blued revolvers
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.38SuperMan
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I was curious whether gun scrubber was safe with polymer shield and wasn't sure what cleaner to use with my wife's 317 Smith. The 317 has a painted finish so I called Smiths customer service. The customer service agent asked a person involved in finishing and gave me the answer I needed.
I'd suggest you go to the source and call customer service. They'll have the correct answer for what's safe.
I'd suggest you go to the source and call customer service. They'll have the correct answer for what's safe.
SWFan27
Member
I have a Model 19-9 Classic and use Ballistol for cleaning, and Hoopes or CLP for lube. One of the forum members recommended the Proshot Metal Care Cloth which is safe for factory blued finishes. The cloth is pre-moistened with some of their magic solution. It has been fantastic for removing marks I can't get off with Ballistol or CLP, such as cylinder burn marks.
I also suggest contacting Smith & Wesson and have them send you a slightly longer replacement front screw for the rear sight leaf. The part number is 3010955. The screw is about .010 longer and will help with the cylinder burn marks. Now they usually wipe off with Ballistol. If I shoot a lot, I may need to use the Proshot cloth. This guy on YouTube gave me the idea to ask for the screw.The top strap on my 66-8 is a hair thinner so the screw was too long for that one.
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fkarBscuc60&t=46s"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fkarBscuc60&t=46s[/ame]
I also suggest contacting Smith & Wesson and have them send you a slightly longer replacement front screw for the rear sight leaf. The part number is 3010955. The screw is about .010 longer and will help with the cylinder burn marks. Now they usually wipe off with Ballistol. If I shoot a lot, I may need to use the Proshot cloth. This guy on YouTube gave me the idea to ask for the screw.The top strap on my 66-8 is a hair thinner so the screw was too long for that one.
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fkarBscuc60&t=46s"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fkarBscuc60&t=46s[/ame]
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I like Hoppe's #9 for general cleaning and RemOil or Breakfree CLP for light lubrication, though any quality, light weight oil should do the job. Sewing machine oil and watch oil are good too as they are formulated to NOT gum up over time.
I don't have a new Smith and Wesson but I do have a new blue Colt Python. I wouldn't treat a S&W any different. Hoppes to clean the internals and Renaissance Wax for the exterior. Works on stocks too. Put it on with a fingertip, buff it off with an old (clean) T-shirt. Whatever gun oil I happen to have around for lubrication. I think I've got three or four brands now. It's all just "gun oil." Nothing special. I do like oil in a needle dispenser. Just a drop or two is usually enough.
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I have two blued Smith "Classic" models and have done well with the Safariland Break-Free CLP. Nearly odor free and no ill effects on the finish. But it has gotten outrageously expensive over the past couple years so I may start looking for an alternative.
Once in a rare while if I really want to get the lead out, I'll carefully run a patch with Shooter's Choice MC-7 bore cleaner. This is an ammonia-based cleaner that will not play nice with the bluing, so be careful to keep it away from the outside finish of the revolver.
Once in a rare while if I really want to get the lead out, I'll carefully run a patch with Shooter's Choice MC-7 bore cleaner. This is an ammonia-based cleaner that will not play nice with the bluing, so be careful to keep it away from the outside finish of the revolver.
S&W had advised to avoid solvents that contain ammonia or ammonia compounds as the ammonia can react with the black oxide finish that S&W switched to in 2000. The reaction can turn the black finish to a plum color. I do not yet own any S&W's with this new "blued" finish, so I cannot speak to how long the ammonia would have to contact the finish to cause a reaction. I know Hoppe's No.9 does contain some ammonia, but I do not know how much, but it is less than what you would find in dedicated copper solvents.
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I have been using Bore Tech Eliminator. It cleans the cylinder face pretty quick and easy. It also works great on AR15 bolts/carriers.
Yendor357
Member
Wow. Can't use Hoppes #9 on a Smith and Wesson. What has the world come to?
An EPA friendly form of "bluing", that's what the world has come to.
I use Hoppe's No. 9 for bore and cylinder cleaning, but follow up with a good quality CLP and then Renaissance Wax. Remember that Hoppe's No. 9 is a bore solvent, and not a cleaner, lubricant, protectant. I've actually had some pistols and revolvers "lock up" (slides were stuck; cylinders difficult to open) when I accidentally let the Hoppe's No. 9 dry on those handguns and put them in the safe...forgetting to finish with a CLP.
I'm so old I use Hoppes to clean inside, outside, and in between-----and don't even know what this other stuff is!! My collection is long gone, but there's still two unopened quart bottles of Hoppes in the cabinet.
Ralph Tremaine
Ralph Tremaine
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On newer blued guns (not quite as durable as the older bluing) I'd recommend G96 Synthetic CLP (yellow and red bottle). It is very similar to the old standby Breakfree CLP but IMHO it cleans a little better than the BF CLP does. Lubrication and rust prevention are about the same on both CLP's from my experience.
I do not own any new production S&W revolvers so I can not comment on how they stand up to the old version of Hoppes 9. My blued revolvers are all vintage and my supply of Hoppes 9 is the older version which they warn about using on the new crop of S&W guns made with the new bluing process.
IMO if a gun is cleaned after each range session, a CLP will work just fine and cause no issues with a new S&W revolver. Stronger solvents are usually needed when guns are infrequently cleaned or neglected.
I do not own any new production S&W revolvers so I can not comment on how they stand up to the old version of Hoppes 9. My blued revolvers are all vintage and my supply of Hoppes 9 is the older version which they warn about using on the new crop of S&W guns made with the new bluing process.
IMO if a gun is cleaned after each range session, a CLP will work just fine and cause no issues with a new S&W revolver. Stronger solvents are usually needed when guns are infrequently cleaned or neglected.
I rarely use anything more than Break Free CLP and a microfiber rag.
WD-40 does everything
gwpercle
Member
Try these products :
Hoppe's Elite Gun Cleaner
Hoppe's Elite Gun Oil
Modern , safe to use , both work very well and ...
they Smell Good ... No and Low Odor ... My wife doesn't complain when I clean and lube a handgun in the bedroom !!!
Look for the word ELITE - on the bottles ... if it don't say Elite it may stink to high heaven !
Gary
Hoppe's Elite Gun Cleaner
Hoppe's Elite Gun Oil
Modern , safe to use , both work very well and ...
they Smell Good ... No and Low Odor ... My wife doesn't complain when I clean and lube a handgun in the bedroom !!!
Look for the word ELITE - on the bottles ... if it don't say Elite it may stink to high heaven !
Gary
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Autonomous
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Yes, and not all of it good.
It is something of an all-purpose cleaner and short-term light-duty lube, but it turns to gum and sets up.
Just about any real lubrication oil is better.
The closest that WD-40 gets to my firearms is that they are both inside the same house, but otherwise do not see each other.
Autonomous
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Not a fan of 'cleaners' that leave residue behind.
SnidelyWhiplash
Member
WD-40 is known to kill primers.
It's been " claimed " to kill primers . The gun forums are full of posts about it but nobody ever said
" It happened to me " . I've busted that wive's tale a couple of years ago and I'm in the middle of running the experiment again with some even more severe conditions .
Model 15-4ever
Member
I have a several "new" bluing S&W revolvers. I use these products without any problems:
Cleaning - Hoppes No.9 or Shooters Choice Lead Remover. Wipe it off completely after cleaning.
Lubricate/Preserve - Clenzoil.
Cleaning - Hoppes No.9 or Shooters Choice Lead Remover. Wipe it off completely after cleaning.
Lubricate/Preserve - Clenzoil.
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From the current S&W revolver owner's manual:
"CAUTION: Some cleaners can cause damage to your firearms. You
should avoid prolonged solvent immersion and prolonged ultrasonic
cleaning of your firearm. Choice of solvent should be restricted to
those products specifically developed for firearms maintenance.
Damage to a firearm's finish may occur if these cautions are
ignored. Ammoniated solvents or other strong alkaline solvents,
should not be used on any Smith & Wesson firearm."
"CAUTION: Some cleaners can cause damage to your firearms. You
should avoid prolonged solvent immersion and prolonged ultrasonic
cleaning of your firearm. Choice of solvent should be restricted to
those products specifically developed for firearms maintenance.
Damage to a firearm's finish may occur if these cautions are
ignored. Ammoniated solvents or other strong alkaline solvents,
should not be used on any Smith & Wesson firearm."
Over the 50 years I've owned and shot, a number of Model 19's. after cleaning, I always used silicon spray buffed in with a clean Micro-fiber towel, with great results..
I use CLP or Rem Oil.
I used to use Mpro7 gun cleaner since it's supposedly non-toxic. But I found that it left a sticky residue on my guns, so I stopped using it.
You know those sets of gun brushes that come 3 in a package? Usually one is nylon, one is bronze, and one is stainless steel. I set aside the stainless brush far away from my guns so I don't accidentally use it. I used a stainless brush before, and it took off the bluing.
For any blued gun, I use the nylon brush first. I use the bronze brush on the breechface and on the front of the cylinder if there is carbon or lead buildup that the nylon brush can't remove. I only care about removing the layer of carbon or lead that can bind against the forcing cone. There will be some staining on the front of the cylinder that may not come off. But that's okay because I'll just shoot the gun again next time I go to the range.
I use a bronze bore brush soaked in CLP or Rem Oil to clean the bore and chambers. I follow up with wet 12 gauge sized Hoppes patches. I like the 12 gauge size patches since they're bigger than .38 sized patches. After the wet patches come out clean, I use some dry patches and ensure that I've completely dried the bore and chambers.
An important area to clean is behind the extractor star. The small tip of a nylon brush is good for this. I then use a .22 caliber sized Ramrodz to dry the area under the extractor star.
Something else to consider is not storing blued guns in foam lined cases, since the moisture buildup can cause rust.
I used to use Mpro7 gun cleaner since it's supposedly non-toxic. But I found that it left a sticky residue on my guns, so I stopped using it.
You know those sets of gun brushes that come 3 in a package? Usually one is nylon, one is bronze, and one is stainless steel. I set aside the stainless brush far away from my guns so I don't accidentally use it. I used a stainless brush before, and it took off the bluing.
For any blued gun, I use the nylon brush first. I use the bronze brush on the breechface and on the front of the cylinder if there is carbon or lead buildup that the nylon brush can't remove. I only care about removing the layer of carbon or lead that can bind against the forcing cone. There will be some staining on the front of the cylinder that may not come off. But that's okay because I'll just shoot the gun again next time I go to the range.
I use a bronze bore brush soaked in CLP or Rem Oil to clean the bore and chambers. I follow up with wet 12 gauge sized Hoppes patches. I like the 12 gauge size patches since they're bigger than .38 sized patches. After the wet patches come out clean, I use some dry patches and ensure that I've completely dried the bore and chambers.
An important area to clean is behind the extractor star. The small tip of a nylon brush is good for this. I then use a .22 caliber sized Ramrodz to dry the area under the extractor star.
Something else to consider is not storing blued guns in foam lined cases, since the moisture buildup can cause rust.
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I agree, stainless steel brushes have no place in normal firearms maintenance. Not even for removing lead from chamber throats or the bore. For tough deposits, pure copper Chore Boy pot scrubber material works great and will not harm a blued finish, but stainless brushes can do a lot of damage.
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