Cleaning question

[Harassor]

I'm curious how deeply people here clean their wheel guns? Also, oil, synthetic gun grease of a combination of the two?

I'll usually go through a couple hundred rounds in a sitting and when I clean I'll remove the crane and cylinder to make it easy. Sometimes I'll remove the side plate and take most of the works out because it's fun to do but not every time of course. I was just wondering what the S&W purists do?

 

[Pisgah]

On my heavily-used revolvers, detailed disassembly and cleaning perhaps once a year, unless they get dunked in a creek. And if grease were ever the best thing anywhere inside a revolver, I think S&W would recommend it.

 

[mod29]

I've owned and shot S&W wheel guns for at least 35 years and I've never removed a side plate or cylinder for cleaning.
I do clean them carefully and lightly oil after each use, however.

I use Hoppes #9 solvent and Hoppes gun oil. Nothing too fancy.

 

[G.T. Smith]

On my carry revolver, (M37), I like to pull the side plate in the spring time and clean it and oil it lightly. After shooting I usually just run a patch through the barrel and chambers and wipe everything else down good. As a matter of fact, that is just what I got done doing before I got on here! I take all my handguns out at least once or twice a month and wipe them down with an oily rag and run a lightly oiled patch through the barrel. Ain't had no rust yet. been on this plan for a loot of years.
Peace and Merry Christmas to all,
Gordon

 

[gnystrom]

I have pulled the sideplate on every S&W revolver I own. In each of them I have flushed out debris either from the factory or just shooting crud.
A cleaning and lube made a world of difference. While you are in there you may consider a simple polish of the rebound slide. Nothing special, just a couple of minutes on a really fine stone. Really hard to screw up unless you do it with 180 grit sandpaper.

If you do remove the sideplate please get a correct screwdriver set. I use these and they are low cost and a perfect fit.

At the very least, many will spray Rem oil into the internals followed by a blast of compressed air. You will be amazed at what comes out.
My 2¢

 

[Peak53]

I have found that oiling internals, and especially the ejector rod, too frequently leads to the accumulation of powder debris and can gum up the works. Oiling after each shooting may be asking for trouble. A little goes a long way.

 

[Lou_the_welder]

I removed the side plate on my 929 at 3K rounds.........only to do a trigger job on it. Sprayed rem - oil to clean out the trash.

Besides that, I clean barrel, force cone, etc after each use!

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[OldChief]

Frankly, I'm old fashioned, I clean each of my firearms after every range visit. I also have a schedule for cleaning them all every 6 months. This is when I remove the side plate on my revolvers and remove and clean and lube all the lock works. After a regular cleaning a very light coat of gun oil in the chambers and bore and usually a light coat of Renaissance wax over the outer surfaces keeps them in top shape.

 

[armorer951]

cleaning the cylinder....

I've owned and shot S&W wheel guns for at least 35 years and I've never removed a side plate or cylinder for cleaning.
I do clean them carefully and lightly oil after each use, however.

I use Hoppes #9 solvent and Hoppes gun oil. Nothing too fancy.

If you have shot them very much you would be amazed at the accumulated crud and shooting debris inside the cylinder assembly and on the yoke and yoke barrel. With regular use, dirt and debris in this area will eventually accumulate to the point of making the gun unreliable or unusable.

Recently rebarreled a model 65 that was in use as a rental gun at a local range. The gun had seen minimal, if any cleaning........after 4000+ rounds of lead range loads, I literally couldn't get the cylinder off of the yoke without soaking the whole assembly in solvent.

 

[Amp]

I clean everything you can see after shooting.
Once or twice a year I pull the cylinder.
Rarely pull grips and side plate but it gets done.
Go easy on the oil, it will attract dirt.

Looking into other solvents that don't contain ammonia.

 

[Ed Fowler]

Wheel Guns:
Once a year I grease the axles and wheel hubs, barrel gets swabbed every time it is shot then greased. Linseed oil the wood and maybe a little paint.

Revolvers as needed, maybe every 500 rounds.

 

[TAROMAN]

Soak in KROIL, then scrub clean. Wipe down with Ballistol.
I shoot only coated bullets so leading is never an issue

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[Harassor]

Great answers here and very much appreciated.

I like to put a tiny amount of gun grease on the ratchet mechanism, a very light coat of oil, very very light, on moving surfaces under the side plate. After reading these answers I may start pulling the side plate a little less often. I love the close fit these Smiths have.

Thanks again.

 

[rwsmith]

Do not use.....

Do not use Hoppes #9 or any ammonia product with newer S&W guns. The new bluing process is affected by the ammonia and will result in the surface having a lovely purplish/violet patina.

 

[jaymoore]

I clean my IHMSA match revolvers about once a year, or if they need it. Preferably which ever comes last. They do get wiped down to protect the finish on occasion, esp. in hot sweaty weather, or if we shoot in the rain. But for these revolvers the "dirt" is mostly Alox and/or beeswax, both of which are corrosion inhibitors, so....

Sideplate comes off only if something is wrong, which is almost never. Multi-thousands of rounds this year, and the bores look great, but the recoil shields are a little gunked up. Hasn't affected anything, so will likely let it be for consistency. Everything matters when shooting out to 100yds and 200m, and it takes time for things to settle down after cleaning.

 

[Tom S.]

One word of caution about gun grease. If you have lightened your action and carry the gun outside in a holster in cold temps, you can experience misfires. As temps drop, some greases become more like molasses, and if your gun has had work done on it to lighten the trigger pull, the gelled grease can be enough to slow it down enough to cause light hits on the primers.

While I do use grease in certain areas, I'm very cautious on it's use on any gun that's being used for more than just putting holes in paper.

 

[Hopper]

I do tend to be OCD about cleaning, but don't remove my sideplates as often as others do. However, I will remove the crane and cylinder every time I finish a range session. The amount of nasty that gets on the crane is a lot easier to clean up when I keep up on it.

I'm also a bit compulsive about the forcing cone area, and the burn marks on the front of the cylinder. I've found that Flitz Bore Cleaner, and a stiffish nylon brush, does the trick. It takes a bit of patience for the cylinder burn marks, but I've found that it doesn't harm the finish, even on an older blued 19. It also won't polish off a bead blast finish like a lead-free type gun cloth will.

 

[JBTrucker]

I only removed the side plate along with the cylinder one time on the Mod 65-3 to clean out the crud. I use Hoppes 9 and apply a very thin coat Rem Oil and wipe it off.

 

[chief38]

When I get a new Wheel Gun (I always buy older Smiths - pre 1995) I completely disassemble the entire gun including the Ejector Rod assembly and thoroughly clean everything. If REALLY grungy I will soak in Hopes for a while (ONLY on older Smiths and NOT on Nickel) and scrub with a Nylon brush. After I dry the Barrel, Forcing Cone and Cylinder I use the Lewis Lead Remover on it to remove all lead deposits. Gun is gone over for proper parts fitment, burrs, and proper function. Any corrections / repairs are then done if needed.

I then reassemble lightly using Rig #2 Oil for lube and close 'er up. Rig is thin and won't collect dust and grime as regular weight oils and grease will.

After the gun has been cleaned this way initially, I use Rig #2, a Bronze Bore / Cylinder brush and cotton patches to routinely clean after shooting. Once in a while I need to use the Lewis LR for a quick de-leading and once every few years (or when needed) I will repeat the complete tear down procedure.

Guns get wiped down with Rig #2 Oil on a clean patch or rag prior to storing them in their VOC paper and original box where they wait to be shot again.

That's the story............

 

[Trooperdan]

I have a S&W 986 with the titanium cylinder and concerned about the coating on the cylinder so have avoided Hoppe's # 9 but I think Hoppe's Elite would be safe. Comments?

 

[Rivoak]

Maybe I've been doing things wrong, but I have never disassembled any of my revolvers to clean them except my Ruger .22 single ten, which can't be cleaned with the cylinder in place. I just run a bore brush through, follow up with some swabs coated with froglube solvent, then wipe down all visible grime, and finish off with a light coat of froglube clp. My guns might not be clean as they could be, but never had a problem. They at least smell fresh and minty when I finish.


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[Backlighting]

I've owned and shot S&W wheel guns for at least 35 years and I've never removed a side plate or cylinder for cleaning.
I do clean them carefully and lightly oil after each use, however.

I use Hoppes #9 solvent and Hoppes gun oil. Nothing too fancy.

Same for me.

 

[shawn mccarver]

Here is my procedure to clean an S&W (or any other revolver, for that matter - excluding black powder):

Unload, check it thrice.

Solvent dipped bristle brush is introduced to barrel and all charge holes.

Then, a toothbrush dipped in solvent is used to scrub the face of the cylinder and under and all over and around the ejector, and all areas in the frame window, including the area around breech end of the barrel and the bolster face.

An old t-shirt or shop rag is then used to wipe off the excess from all exterior surfaces. By this time the solvent that was introduced into the barrel and charge holes has had time to "work," so a patch is run through the barrel and each charge hole.

Finally, a light coat of oil is applied to the barrel and charge holes by running an oily patch down the barrel and each charge hole. Then a single drop of oil on each side of the exterior is spread around with my finger, followed by another wipe down with a shop rag.

The weapon is now ready to go.

Long term storage requires more, but the procedure above is what I do if it is to be loaded up and "ready."

As to chemicals, I use Hoppes No. 9 on stainless and older blue revolvers, and Break Free CLP for lube. On newer blue revolvers, or nickel, I would use ONLY Break Free CLP, as Hoppes No. 9 is not friendly with the modern bluing, or so I read.

The whole process is complete in about 5 minutes or less.

 

[DevilDog72]

I clean all my guns with brake cleaner, brushes and swabs then RemOil the pertinent parts and Ren wax the exterior... I take the side plates off for a thorough cleaning in the spring and fall.

 

[SS57]

Here is my procedure to clean an S&W (or any other revolver, for that matter - excluding black powder):

Unload, check it thrice.

Solvent dipped bristle brush is introduced to barrel and all charge holes.

Then, a toothbrush dipped in solvent is used to scrub the face of the cylinder and under and all over and around the ejector, and all areas in the frame window, including the area around breech end of the barrel and the bolster face.

An old t-shirt or shop rag is then used to wipe off the excess from all exterior surfaces. By this time the solvent that was introduced into the barrel and charge holes has had time to "work," so a patch is run through the barrel and each charge hole.

Finally, a light coat of oil is applied to the barrel and charge holes by running an oily patch down the barrel and each charge hole. Then a single drop of oil on each side of the exterior is spread around with my finger, followed by another wipe down with a shop rag.

The weapon is now ready to go.

Long term storage requires more, but the procedure above is what I do if it is to be loaded up and "ready."

As to chemicals, I use Hoppes No. 9 on stainless and older blue revolvers, and Break Free CLP for lube. On newer blue revolvers, or nickel, I would use ONLY Break Free CLP, as Hoppes No. 9 is not friendly with the modern bluing, or so I read.

The whole process is complete in about 5 minutes or less.

This is pretty much what I do also. Break Free CLP for lube and I use it on a wipe down rag for the exterior. 40+ years of gun ownership and never an issue with rust.

 

[Amp]

Hoppes has ammonia in it. The printed instructions say do not use products that contain ammonia.
That's number nine and benchrest nine.
I am looking at other solvents myself as these are what I have always used.

 

[Ed Fowler]

I simply remove the grips, completely submerge the handgun in rubbing alcohol, let it soak, then brush crud that is still around and soak again. When clean I blow out the action with an air hose, then some break free in the action and again the compressed air to distribute the break free.

Clean the barrel as usual, Hopies or break free or alcohol, sometimes a Lewis Lead Remover and JB Bore Cleaner.

For long term storage or cold weather I use Sentury Solutions products, they are as good as it gets.

 

[Tom S.]

Ok another ? I just ordered a new 586 & have read here & other places that hoppes #9 does a real number on the bluing so question is what should I use...? I have CLP would that be ok?

Been asked numerous times. Here's one thread with a link in it to another thread: Solvents