Cleaning Stock Checkering

[flundertaker]

What’s the best way to clean dust and grime as well as wax from the sharp checkering on S&W stocks. The sharp checkering shreds a microfiber towel and I have some dried Ren wax in it that looks bad. The stocks are in great condition, hence the very sharp checkering, I just need to find a way to get the checkering to look as good as the rest of the wood.

 

[Frailer]

I am by no means a restoration expert, so proceed at your own risk, but Murphy’s Oil Soap and a soft toothbrush works for me.

 

[jbtrucker]

Soft toothbrush , I've used Renwax and furniture polish

 

[chief38]

The best tool is a medium toothbrush. I use my wife's when I am pissed at her - LOL!! (JOKE of course). I've never had to use any solvent or chemicals but ifi it is really that gunked up I suppose Murphy's soap won't hurt them. I'd not let it dwell on the wood that long though.

 

[gwpercle]

I like to use an old toothbrush ... gentle scrubbing with the cleaner of your choice .
I have used old fashioned mineral spirits for a quick clean if they were filled with built up "gun stuff" . Mineral spirits isn't too harsh and wont remove finish if you are careful and don't let it soak in it .
Gary

 

[2152hq]

If they are really loaded with dirt, grime, dried oil, etc, a toothbrush and just a touch of Mineral Spirits on the bristles will clear the checkering nicely.
It's used a lot to clean up old orig checkering on vintage firearms that need just that, but do not need further actual re-cutting of the checkering work done.

Even soap and water can be of use. But that can lead to the grain 'raising' in the checkering and the diamonds becoming a fuzzy field of bloom.
Requiring a complete re-cut to get the diamonds and borders looking like Checkering once again.
Checkering itself leaves a lot of wood area exposed and a lot of different grain. All those sides of diamonds back and forth in the wood..

A prime candidate for the grain fibers to raise,,and water, especially if warm, will do an instant job of it for you even if not intentioned.


Mineral Spirits is safe on just about any decent DRIED and cured finish.
Alcohol with disolve Shellac finish (and so will any cleaners w/ Ammonia in it).
Acetone and any of the super fast grease/oil disolving & evaporating solvents will disolve just about any common finish

Follow-up Scrub the checkering dry with the dried toothbrush to get all of the loosened up crud out.
The mineral spirits will evaporate after a few minutes.

Then use the same brush cleaned and dried to brush in a very thin coating of thinned stock finish, some use straight Linseed Oil (don't over do it or it'll just end up gummed up again as it is kranky about drying).
Min-Spirits is a common thinner for Linseed Oil and oil based stock finishes so any remaining in the wood will just thin these final finish application a tiny bit and then dry. Nearly too small too notice.

You want what ever you use to dry. A thin coating is all you need and just
realize there is nothing that will be completely water proof.

A brushed on & buffed coating of wax over the final product helps. But if you plan on adding additional finish, the wax will resist that finish from linking with that underneath the wax coating.

 

[Bald1]

Plain old dish soap and toothbrush. When it’s completely dry, a little furniture polish.

 

[diyj98]

I've read a now deceased wood "expert" on another forum who said to never use Murphy's oil soap, but I've used it lightly on really filthy wood with no bad effects yet. I'd think a dry toothbrush or one just barely wet would remove the Renwax and clean out the checkering.

 

[taz666]

I'm a fan of using a finish on checkering. Surrounding flats can be oiled but the finished checkered section are easier to clean. It also adds a nice contrast to the stocks' texture while making the checkered sections just a bit less aggressive on the palm.

 

[glowe]

Mineral spirits are a very mild solvent that does not attack any finishes unless soaked for hours. Toothbrush and mineral spirits followed by some compressed air will clean out the crevices without any issues. I think wax of any kind will ultimately build up so do not use it on checkering. Murphy's Oil soap has both water and soap, so not the best thing to use on delicate checkering.

 

[Bullseye Smith]

I use a med. tooth brush to clean, then I put true oil on it with a artist paint brush and let it dry to 90+ % and take a dry clean brush and knock the shine off the checkered area. makes them look like new.

 

[Green Frog]

My favorite description of the condition you describe came from a Scots gunsmith who described such checkering as “full of snot and andruff”. I was chuckling at that point and only recall that he mentioned a soft brush. I personally would probably use a minimal amount of Murphy’s Oil Soap. As far as finish or wax, the key is restraint! Don’t fill the cheering right back up.
Froggie

 

[goatsnguns]

I used a tooth brush and a liquid product called "Clock Case Cleaner"