Old flat shoe string and Hoppes will clean this area fine. Hold revolver between knees and use the string/Hoppes in a back and forth/sawing action.
Last edited:
Cleaning the nooks & crannies of my revolver -help please
- Thread starter MaxS
- Start date
Gun cleaning.
After your done with your solvent blow it off with an air hose! An air compressor is handy to have around the house. A second thought is go to your local in door range and see if they have an ultrasonic cleaner. They are not that expensive to purchase either, Lyman sell's one and the unit and accessories is well under $400.00.
After your done with your solvent blow it off with an air hose! An air compressor is handy to have around the house. A second thought is go to your local in door range and see if they have an ultrasonic cleaner. They are not that expensive to purchase either, Lyman sell's one and the unit and accessories is well under $400.00.
BigBill
Absent Comrade
Soft brass brush. Made from 100% brass not a brass coated steel brush.
Florida Guy
Member
When you get your Lead Away cloth, be sure to cut it into smaller pieces, like cleaning patches, so as not to get the entire cloth dirty. The cloths last a long time when using them in this manner. They're great for the front of the cylinder (ss guns only).
loeman
Member
I don't worry too much about the forcing cone area but I am going to try the flat shoestring and Hoppes the next time I clean. I like to keep the front of the cylinder clean and I've had great success without much effort with the household metal cleaner called Brasso. I use either a cotton swab or a cotton bore patch. If I do it every time it's very easy to keep clean and bright.
Jim1392
US Veteran
Hoppes with a soft nylon brush. And a Birchwood Casey Lead Remover cloth. I cut them into strips and put the gun between my knees and make like a sawing motion with the cloth. Once the lead is loosened up I use a dental pick flat side only to push the excess lead off. You have to be really careful with a pick or you will scratch the stainless. I just rub it gently. It will never be totally clean but if you spend some time on it will look close to it. Then of course when you go back to the range it will be rinse and repeat.
Last edited:
i do what srv1 does i just hold with my kness i do like the shoe lace option and the ereaser
jtcarm
Member
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2011
- Messages
- 4,422
- Reaction score
- 4,317
I dry brush with a TB or bronze brush, then soak a patch (about 1" x 1") in solvent and scrub it just like shining a shoe on top of the forcing cone & bottom of the frame. Then clean it out with a dry patch or old was cloth.
Gets as clean as I need it.
Gets as clean as I need it.
Last edited:
ginzo
Member
My favorite also, that is why I made the reference to the Stainless/aluminum. I was talking about my 638. 
I've cleaned my SS Model 60 many times now until it's totally clean with all the carbon cleaned off. It takes some time to get it that clean and very little shooting to get it dirty again.
I've since given up on total cleaning and now only take off the built up gunk. I still see the carbon marks but it's clean enough to shoot. Cleaning it till it sparkles is only good for safe queens.
I've since given up on total cleaning and now only take off the built up gunk. I still see the carbon marks but it's clean enough to shoot. Cleaning it till it sparkles is only good for safe queens.
I've generally gotten either a thin brush (about 1/4 the width of a toothbrush) in either plastic fiber or copper to get in there. Often the bulk of it will come out if you fold a cleaning patch in half and use a "flossing" motion. I'm big on a clean revolver too, but if it helps, leaving that much grit won't hurt anything.
BigBill
Absent Comrade
When I open up the side plate I use a q-tip very carefully to clean up the revolver frame. Then lube everything with moly.
My guns are shooters not collectables. I don't worry about powder or cast bullet smut on cylinders or forcing cones. If a bore brush can't clean it, it don't need cleaning.
I don't spend a whole lot of time on polished brass or clean primer pockets either. Just think of it as "seasoning" on cast iron frying pans. That layer of pristine smut protects the finish from more staining.
I don't spend a whole lot of time on polished brass or clean primer pockets either. Just think of it as "seasoning" on cast iron frying pans. That layer of pristine smut protects the finish from more staining.
BigBill
Absent Comrade
I'm a welder too and I wonder if the spray release agent we use to release the weld splatter could be applied around the throat area of the barrel with a q tip? I'm not sure about the affect on the finish. maybe some gun silicone would work.
My guns are shooters too but I try to keep them in New condition. They still look like new and shot very little.
My guns are shooters too but I try to keep them in New condition. They still look like new and shot very little.
Last edited:
I agree, I have been using them since the 60s to get in all those hard to reach places in long gun actions. Since I got into handguns in the 70s I use where necessary there also.. You can also use them to push extra small patches into tiny areas and the hook will retrieve than if necessary!
They have all sorts of shapes and sizes and years ago my dentist was happy to give me a good assortment. FWIW they also have many small mirrors and they can help you see in those small places.
45doubletap
Member
I recently acquired a full set of them. I'm absolutely amazed how many different shapes dental picks come in!!but I guess looking at some peoples teeth I shouldn't be so surprised! Lol. But they really are indispensable for working on and cleaning firearms.
Similar threads
