Cleaning the Sigma
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KyWstJoe
US Veteran
Gun Scrubber works for me. Blasts away all the crud. Also cleans out the striker. My neighbor uses non-chlorinated brake cleaner with the same results. About 2-3 bucks and doesn't seem to hurt anything.
Char011671
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Is it ok to spray Bore Blaster into the trigger assembly when cleaning? I would blow it out first with a can of air so it doesn't cake up in it or anything.
Char
Char
hybridsquirrel
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ive also heard about using brake cleaner. an old timer at the range (probably about 80yrs old, but still shooting big holes through the targets) told me i was a fool for using hoppes because the brake cleaner works better, and wont clump up with the dust.
i make sure the barrel is super clean, and the rails are all clear, blast it out with compressed air, and put lube where metal meets metal.
You'll tend to colect much more crud if you leave the action sticky with lube.
I use CRC "Dry" silicone and spray it until it runs out. The CRC dries quickly and leaves only a dry powder.
zorro49
Member
I have used gunscrubber and find it to be a great way to spray and clean in one step, but you do need to lubricate these areas that need lubrication after its use for it will strip any residue(bad and good) from the metal(slide, barrel, trigger mechanism, etc. moving parts). It will get into nooks and crannies easier than a brush which is handy. I also use, with great results, Gunzilla, to clean and protect all metal surfaces. It has no pungent odor and is safe on your hands. Here is link to the website, for you may have a hard time finding it at your local dealer. zorro49
Top Duck Products, LLC., Creators of Superzilla and Gunzilla
Top Duck Products, LLC., Creators of Superzilla and Gunzilla
K
kenster
I use Gunzilla on slide and barrel with normal clean. After regular clean I recoat with Gunzilla throw a rag over it and let it sit 24 hours. By doing this you pull a lot of crap out of the pores, especially the slide rails and barrel. After first use it gets easier and faster.
I still use Remington CLP Rem Oil spray on the frame. A quick blast to trigger springs and sear assembly. I use Gunzilla on the 4 rail tabs and make sure I swab under them. Finally I put a dab of Gun Slick graphite lube on sear cam. Works great especially if you have a gritty trigger.
Put back together and dry fire a few times and wipe down gun. DONE...
I usually shoot 200 rounds a week. I also spray gun down every six weeks with non-chlorinated brake cleaner.
I still use Remington CLP Rem Oil spray on the frame. A quick blast to trigger springs and sear assembly. I use Gunzilla on the 4 rail tabs and make sure I swab under them. Finally I put a dab of Gun Slick graphite lube on sear cam. Works great especially if you have a gritty trigger.
Put back together and dry fire a few times and wipe down gun. DONE...
I usually shoot 200 rounds a week. I also spray gun down every six weeks with non-chlorinated brake cleaner.
K
kenster
To get rid of that gritty trigger pull I did a semi polish to the sear cam. They all come with serrations on the cam, which make for that gritty pull.
Pull slide off frame. Make a 1:1 mixture of Gun Slick graphite lube and valve grinding compound. Put a dab of mixture on sear cam with a toothpick. Work compound into sear by pulling trigger. you will have to add more compound a few times. Make shure it's getting down to plastic housing. You need to pull trigger about 100 times.
Now pull sear housing out of gun. You can see this done on You Tube. Go on You Tube and search Sigma trigger job. Clean sear assembly by spraying it down with non-chlorinated brake cleaner or equivalant.
Put sear housing back in frame and lube. Squeeze trigger and feel the differance.
Pull slide off frame. Make a 1:1 mixture of Gun Slick graphite lube and valve grinding compound. Put a dab of mixture on sear cam with a toothpick. Work compound into sear by pulling trigger. you will have to add more compound a few times. Make shure it's getting down to plastic housing. You need to pull trigger about 100 times.
Now pull sear housing out of gun. You can see this done on You Tube. Go on You Tube and search Sigma trigger job. Clean sear assembly by spraying it down with non-chlorinated brake cleaner or equivalant.
Put sear housing back in frame and lube. Squeeze trigger and feel the differance.
K
kenster
This is the end of my Sigma's journey. I recently bought a new striker spring through Wolf Spring. A lighter than stock replacement spring for the Sigma was a 3.5 pound spring. Stock is 4.75 pound spring. Heard of light strikes with 3.5 spring. I installed a 4# spring made for a Glock. The spring measured 1" longer than stock spring. Installed without a problem. Trigger is lighter, not by a whole lot, but lighter. Still planning to use as a carry so I don't want a light trigger, besides the Sigma is not my idea of a target gun. The pull is more like a stock Glock, maybe a tad heavier.
Will be taking to range to test. Will get back with results...
Will be taking to range to test. Will get back with results...
K
kenster
Went to range and shot 200 rounds without a glitch.
Here is the trigger break down in pounds of force:
New Sigma out of box---14.50# pull
Sigma with semi-polish and 700 rounds---12.50# pull
Sigma with semi-polish, Glock 4# striker spring and 1300 rounds
10.75# pull
New Springfield XD out of box---7.50# pull
Every little bit counts when your shooting a couple hundred rounds.
Here is the trigger break down in pounds of force:
New Sigma out of box---14.50# pull
Sigma with semi-polish and 700 rounds---12.50# pull
Sigma with semi-polish, Glock 4# striker spring and 1300 rounds
10.75# pull
New Springfield XD out of box---7.50# pull
Every little bit counts when your shooting a couple hundred rounds.
K
kenster
Had to make this post in all fairness to Glock. In a previous post I said that after I added the 4# Glock striker spring and did a semi polish to the sear cam; the Sigmas trigger felt a tad heavier than a Glocks.
All I can say is that when I made a recent purchase I compared the Glock with a Springfield. I liked the feel (grip) and trigger better on the Springfield. The trigger felt lighter on the Springfield, it measured to be 7.50#. To be able to feel a difference I would put the Glock at 8.50#. Those weights are on new guns, no break-in.
The worked Sigma was 10.75#. More than a tad...
All I can say is that when I made a recent purchase I compared the Glock with a Springfield. I liked the feel (grip) and trigger better on the Springfield. The trigger felt lighter on the Springfield, it measured to be 7.50#. To be able to feel a difference I would put the Glock at 8.50#. Those weights are on new guns, no break-in.
The worked Sigma was 10.75#. More than a tad...
K
kenster
This should be my last post about lightening trigger. Spoke to Frank Smith from LSG. He strongly recommends not to change spring in striker as I did. He said he could clean up trigger and bring pull down to 10 pounds. Cost is $60 plus shipping. This seems to be the way to go and still have a warranty and a safe gun. If you decide to sell, it won't come back to you moding it and someone getting hurt or worse. I could only get my Sigma down to a 10.75# pull. A 10# pull would be decent in a carry gun.
Rescue 187
Member
I clean mine with Hornadys Dry lube spray. first I clean the barrel with Hoppes 9 and wire brush. Then run two patches and the rest I simply spray everything else with the Hornady...it dries in a few minutes and has a good lubricant that is dry and doesn't attract dirt, dust etc. Works like a charm and is fast to do.
Clean it how ever you want. It's not sensitive. Lube it up with what ever you want and shoot the crap out of it.
I use #9 to clean everything. A nylon barrel brush, jag, patches and a brush. Lube up with M1 Grease and move on. I've pulled the sear housing out after 2000 rounds with no caking or undue crap found. I use no more than 1 tiny drop of M1 0w-20 oil on the sear and striker.
Clean and lube as you wish. It will always do the same thing unless you put the supper oil / grease soak to one or run them bone dry.
I use #9 to clean everything. A nylon barrel brush, jag, patches and a brush. Lube up with M1 Grease and move on. I've pulled the sear housing out after 2000 rounds with no caking or undue crap found. I use no more than 1 tiny drop of M1 0w-20 oil on the sear and striker.
Clean and lube as you wish. It will always do the same thing unless you put the supper oil / grease soak to one or run them bone dry.
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