Cleaning

[trulyapostolic]

I'm cleaning my father's 627-5 PC revolver. How do you get the powder/lead buildup off the frame around the forcing cone? Kind of a tedious, time consuming chore. Thanks.

 

[firearmsunlimited]

I'm cleaning my father's 627-5 PC revolver. How do you get the powder/lead buildup off the frame around the forcing cone? Kind of a tedious, time consuming chore. Thanks.

You can use a "Lead Remover" cloth by Birchwood Casey or lead remover liquid made by Pro Shot or Shooters Choice. If you use anything else you risk thinning or removing the bluing if it is a blued gun. For a stainless gun you can also use Meguiar's mag and aluminum polish.

 

[trulyapostolic]

This is a SS pistol. I've got Shooter's Choice Lead Remover but it isn't working very quickly. The Lead removing cloth works OK but it's hard to get between the forcing cone and the top of the frame.

 

[snowman]

Hello sir/ma'am. I like your username; sounds like we may have a spiritual kinship.

It's very difficult if not impossible to get every bit of fouling off around the top of the forcing cone where it is right beneath the top strap. The closest I've come has been with one of those bronze brushes which has a single narrow row of bristles on one end. I dip that end in solvent and force it in and up as close to the top of the forcing cone as possible. This gets it nearly all off, but not quite.

I need to point out that I've not used it on a blued gun; I suspect a bronze brush may scratch the bluing. I just use a nylon brush with those.

Andy

 

[trulyapostolic]

Hello sir/ma'am. I like your username; sounds like we may have a spiritual kinship.

It's very difficult if not impossible to get every bit of fouling off around the top of the forcing cone where it is right beneath the top strap. The closest I've come has been with one of those bronze brushes which has a single narrow row of bristles on one end. I dip that end in solvent and force it in and up as close to the top of the forcing cone as possible. This gets it nearly all off, but not quite.

I need to point out that I've not used it on a blued gun; I suspect a bronze brush may scratch the bluing. I just use a nylon brush with those.

Andy

I've been using a bronze brush as well, sometimes with some Flitz. Still a little slow going, I wasn't sure if there was an easier method. My dad bought his revolver this last year, I recently purchased a beautiful model 14-4 to shoot bullseye with. I'll send you a PM regarding your first statement.

 

[Kelly Green]

I’ve had success removing lead buildup using a Dremel tool and a small brush attchment. Do not use a stainless steel brush! To get the best results, saturate the area with a good lead remover and leave it set for about fifteen minutes before using the Dremel. Using a polishing wheel and Flitz does a good job of polishing it up. I’ve also used the Dremel to clean and polish the cylinder chambers.

 

[trulyapostolic]

I’ve had success removing lead buildup using a Dremel tool and a small brush attchment. Do not use a stainless steel brush! To get the best results, saturate the area with a good lead remover and leave it set for about fifteen minutes before using the Dremel. Using a polishing wheel and Flitz does a good job of polishing it up. I’ve also used the Dremel to clean and polish the cylinder chambers.

Are you using a brass or nylon brush? Thanks!

 

[Kelly Green]

I use the stiff nylon brush.

 

[chief38]

Very simple................
Use a single edge razor blade (sharp one) and only go in 1 direction. One or two slow swipes takes the lead right off. Follow up with a nylon toothbrush wet with solvent. This removes the lead very quickly, however it will eventually remove a slight bit of the bluing if it is a blue gun. That does not bother me much, because to me it is a part of the gun that is not seen under normal circumstances, and I do like a clean revolver. On a stainless gun it's a non-issue.

Chief38

 

[socal s&w]

I have purchased a few dental tools (at swap meets) that can reach into those kind of recesses very nicely. One in particular has kind of a bend spade end, flat and about 3/8" wide. It's not sharpened, but has a square edge to it. The other end has a pointed flat spade. It works great on SS guns, I would not use it on blued though. The spade is thin enough to get in between the strap and cone to use some leverage for removal. You also have to be cautious about not moving it in a position that it can scratch the other surfaces close to the cone as it can slip.

I have also used dental floss soaked in M-Pro-7 to get way into the angle between the top strap and forcing cone. It's slow, but I only use it for very small stubborn spots.