CLP only? CLP & oil?

[techieccw]

Currently I am uisng G96 Gun Treatment CLP, for both cleaning and lubrication. G96 also has a Military Grade Synthetic oil. Should I be using that on the nessary points on my M&P 40 Shield, or is the CLP enough?

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[gboling]

Welcome to the forum.

I am not familiar with G96. However the abbreviation, CLP, refers to a Cleaner Lubricant and Protectant. If it is advertised as CLP I would expect it to do all three.

 

[techieccw]

Welcome to the forum.

I am not familiar with G96. However the abbreviation, CLP, refers to a Cleaner Lubricant and Protectant. If it is advertised as CLP I would expect it to do all three.

I relize that, but I come from a mechanical background, where we never heard of too much oil. I just don't any to cause premature failure due to lack of lubricating. Nor do I want to cause operating problems due to over lubrication

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[Bkreutz]

I relize that, but I come from a mechanical background, where we never heard of too much oil. I just don't any to cause premature failure due to lack of lubricating. Nor do I want to cause operating problems due to over lubrication

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Too much lubrication can cause a number of problems. They range from minor things like dirt sticking to the excess lube, to hydraulic problems if you have lube in the chamber. Most pictures of guns I see on this forum are dripping with oil. IMO the best way is to clean well using whatever you prefer (not going to start that argument here) lubricate with whatever you prefer, and then wipe everything off. What remains on the working parts will be about the perfect amount.

 

[ginzo]

If I'm not mistaken, your shield should have 7 points to oil, 1 DROP per point. I have M&P's. YMMV

 

[Pierre330]

If I'm not mistaken, your shield should have 7 points to oil, 1 DROP per point. I have M&P's. YMMV

I've been wondering about that. Is it literally one drop on each point and reassemble - then rack it a few times? Or is it a drop and rub with a patch?

 

[MichiganScott]

I've been wondering about that. Is it literally one drop on each point and reassemble - then rack it a few times? Or is it a drop and rub with a patch?

One drop, reassemble, and rack the slide a few times. Why wipe it off if you use one drop as directed?

I use CLP as a lubricant and protectant, something it excels at. If you wish to switch to G96 synthetic oil, you may want to consider a dedicated cleaning solvent also.

 

[techieccw]

One drop, reassemble, and rack the slide a few times. Why wipe it off if you use one drop as directed?

I use CLP as a lubricant and protectant, something it excels at. If you wish to switch to G96 synthetic oil, you may want to consider a dedicated cleaning solvent also.

I was thinking of using the synthetic oil in ADDITION to the CLP on the 7 lubrication points. Maybe that's too much oil?

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[Grail Knight]

I have noticed no wear and tear following the Mfg. instructions for oiling my M&P Shield. One drop of lubricant elite on each of the 7 points then rack and release a few times.

Just put another 300 rds though my Shield this past afternoon and it performed perfectly. Took about 15 minutes to clean but I was pacing myself.

 

[techieccw]

This answers my question right here.

What is the difference between G96 Gun Treatment or Gun Oil and G96 Synthetic CLP Gun Oil?

Synthetic CLP Gun Oil has been approved by the US Military (MIL-PRF-63460E) whereas Gun Treatment is not an approved product for the US Military. Gun Treatment and Gun Oil are petroleum based. The Synthetic CLP gun oil is synthetic based. The Synthetic CLP Gun Oil is 85% biodegradable and contains no VOC's. Synthetic CLP Gun Oil only comes in a liquid form whereas G96 Gun Treatment is available in either a liquid bottle or an aerosol spray can. Synthetic CLP Gun Oil has slightly better cold weather specifications. Synthetic CLP gun oil is rated at -74F and Gun Treatment is rated at -50F. Synthetic CLP Gun Oil has slightly better corrosion protection and slightly better clean up after firing. Synthetic CLP Gun Oil has Corrosion Protection from Propellant Reaction Products Both have excellent properties for Preservation protection for long and short term. Neither product will evaporate. Neither product will thicken or congeal.

 

[moxie]

Any decent oil will work just fine. One drop on each point noted in your owners manual. Reassemble. Rack a few times. Wipe off any excess.

 

[N4KVE]

I always use a separate cleaner/lube. Combo's are a compromise. Hoppe's #9 for the barrel, & Tetra grease for the lube points. Remoil for the inside of long guns. GARY

 

[sarge1967]

I use Break Free CLP to clean my weapons. Have since I was in the Marines. I use a grease designed for firearms on the rails and other lube points. It stays put better than oil. It holds up to heat better also. I do use it very sparingly. I think I have had the current tube I am using now for about 5 years. It is a syringe style tube.

 

[OilTrader]

If it doesn't say ".45ACP" AND "1911" anywhere in the pistol, don't use a lot of oil. I agree with those above who use grease on the wear points (oil on a patch in the barrel). Always have and will continue to do so until I find something better. For cleaning, any good solvent will work. Most of the time I find a can of PB Blaster within reach. It does the job.

 

[MichiganScott]

I was thinking of using the synthetic oil in ADDITION to the CLP on the 7 lubrication points. Maybe that's too much oil?

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Re-read post #4. Bkreutz is correct about too much oil causing problems.

 

[ginzo]

You will learn if you use to much oil, it will spit it at you and leech all over the gun. Just do what the manual says, it works! Oil of choice is fine. I like REM oil, but I'm old and stuck in my ways. I tried Mpro7 as a cleaner recently instead of Hoppe's 9, didn't like it. That's just me.......

The hydraulic issue mentioned in post #4 could also include the striker assembly. It MUST be dry!

I was thinking of using the synthetic oil in ADDITION to the CLP on the 7 lubrication points. Maybe that's too much oil?

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[Shield9mm]

I was using CLP + oil before now it is froglube only.
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[Rastoff]

I've been wondering about that. Is it literally one drop on each point and reassemble - then rack it a few times? Or is it a drop and rub with a patch?

Guys, don't over think this issue. Just put some lube on it and go have fun.

Just for giggles, I'm not going to clean my M&P 40 until it fails. I've got about 1,200 rounds through it so far and it just keeps working.

For the record, I do not recommend doing this to any gun. This is just for my own enjoyment and because I can. However, the point is, don't obsess over lube on the M&P.

 

[g8rb8]

Currently I am uisng G96 Gun Treatment CLP, for both cleaning and lubrication. G96 also has a Military Grade Synthetic oil. Should I be using that on the nessary points on my M&P 40 Shield, or is the CLP enough?

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The short answer: G96 will work just fine for everything.

Rastoff is correct: "Guys, don't over think this issue."

The LGS I frequent has been using G96 to clean their used guns and selling G96 for many years with no complaints or problems. I use G96 more often than any of the other magical potions at my disposal. I like the spray can with the nozzle attachment and it smells better than most other cleaning stuff.My only complaint is that G96 is not as strong as Hoppes No. 9 at cutting lead build up but it will still get the job done.

John
Scoundrel and Ne'er-Do-Well in Training

 

[BIGMAC116]

Or you can just frog lube that bad boy and be done with it. Mine looks bone dry until I take a few shots. Then the froggy kicks in. Literally thousands of rounds and hours on dusty dirty range. It's on my AR as well.