Collection Advice

frosty5011

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Hello all,

Looking to start putting a piece or two of higher quality handguns in my collection ("higher quality" being relative to the firearms I currently have).

Although I'm not particularly really a fan of revolvers (I much prefer semi-auto's over revolvers when shooting), I do like their looks and solid workmanship and that's why I'm looking for something that would be worthwhile from S&W's revolver line.

What should I be looking for, if I want to obtain a VG-Excellent condition revolver, probably something in the $300-$700 range, that won't lose value and has the potential to increase in value? Something from the modern series (without the integral lock), or something a bit older, from the 1961-1980 series?

Any help and input would be appreciated.
 
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You'll get lots of replies to this question. If you are looking for a collectible as opposed to shooting gun, condition (plus box, accessories) is the most important factor, no matter what gun you buy. Just about any gun in a popular caliber that is factory new will increase in value, when bought at the right price.

However, if you are looking for a solid but not necessarily NIB example, perhaps narrowing down to a frame size or caliber would help for suggestions.
 
We'll check back in a year and see if you still have the semi-autos! One hot segment right now is anything with a 3" barrel. I am particularly taken by nicely preserved 3" Model 10's and Model 13's as well as their stainless counterparts the Models 64 and 65.
 
I may look at it much different than some, but I feel that older examples are more desireable and more likely to increase in value. I try to find either pre-numbered models, or at least pinned barrel models of the guns that interest me. After that, I look at what is rare and desireable by others. Most important is buy something you like.

Kevin
 
Care for blue or nickel, or want a stainless? Each requires different attention of sorts. What environment do you have for storage? If storage is not a problem, I recommend a 27-2 blue 6" with all the trimmings, which could be the original box or presentation case, tools, papers, original grips. $700 might get that for you if you look around and take your time. The 3 1/2", 4", 5", and 6 1/2" may cost a tad more, and the 8 3/8" may cost close to the same. That would give you a .357 magnum to start with that would also shoot the .38 rounds.

Plan to shoot it a good bit? Maybe a 28-2 in 4" or 6" with the box and trimmings.

Add a little and get a 29-2 in .44 magnum that will shoot the specials, too. Dirty Harry gun, some call them.

Want to shoot bullseyes? Buy a nice Model 14, Pre Model K-38 through 14-7 can't go wrong.

Stainless? Find a nice 686. Heck, the list could go on and on. I'm with the other poster that wants to know how many autos you keep. Good luck.
 
I don't often post here but I'm by no means new to collecting.

First and foremost, buy something you like to shoot be it action type, caliber, barrel length, or material. I own guns of many calibers, but the ones I shoot most are .22LRs. I'm also partial to stainless steel.

Good luck and have fun at it!
 
If you're gonna invest, unless it's NIB with all the papers and "toys" in there, you're wasting your time. Fired guns, even in great shape, aren't going to be "investment" grade in the sense of making a large sum of money years down the road.

Many people are selling collections of Colts and S&W's, the only ones making money are guys who have been sitting on NIB Triple Locks, Registered Magnums and pre-29's that they have had for decades. Also NIB Colt Model P's and Pythons, etc. NIB is the key, no one is gonna retire on some 95% Victories, 27's, 10's or 15's no matter how nice they look. Spending $700 today to make $500 in profit,in the span of years, is not worth it to me.

I do not have any NIB S&W's, since I'm a shooter and I can't afford to spend $2,000 today on a gun that I MAY get $3,000 for in 10-20 years.....in my experience only dealers who buy low and sell retail and move lots of guns, are getting rich off the firearms trade.
 
Well as was said before, you have gotten a lot of good advice. I am a shooter first and a collector second. I have a K22, mod. 28-2 and a mod. 29-2 that I will keep forever. That said, I would say , if you don't reload any K-22 is hard to beat for pure pleasure. If you load the Mod 28 is hard to beat for value. Any old 5 screw is a mechanical marvel.
Good Luck
 
If you're gonna invest, unless it's NIB with all the papers and "toys" in there, you're wasting your time. Fired guns, even in great shape, aren't going to be "investment" grade in the sense of making a large sum of money years down the road.

Many people are selling collections of Colts and S&W's, the only ones making money are guys who have been sitting on NIB Triple Locks, Registered Magnums and pre-29's that they have had for decades. Also NIB Colt Model P's and Pythons, etc. NIB is the key, no one is gonna retire on some 95% Victories, 27's, 10's or 15's no matter how nice they look. Spending $700 today to make $500 in profit,in the span of years, is not worth it to me.

I do not have any NIB S&W's, since I'm a shooter and I can't afford to spend $2,000 today on a gun that I MAY get $3,000 for in 10-20 years.....in my experience only dealers who buy low and sell retail and move lots of guns, are getting rich off the firearms trade.

Wow not to P*ss you off but you are wrong about collectables. Many of the most desirable firearms are by far less than nib. This might be true with newer S&W(1970's) but the older you get the less .
Condition matters but some of us can not afford to buy a nib TL or RM but to say the lessor condition guns are not collectable? I have a few nice pieces but I enjoy all of my accumulation.
With respect,
Mark Wyatt
 
Thanks for the advice you folks have given me. No, I'm not looking to get rich off of any firearms, just interested in acquiring a piece or two that will at least hold their purchase price on down the road

And as to my comment about preferring the semi-auto's over the revolvers for shooting, please don't take that in a negative sense. I don't shoot nearly as much as I used to, but I used to shoot competitively on the Army Pistol Team. Put well over 100,000 rds through my (assigned) S&W Model 41, and also shot quite a bit gov't .45. That's where my preference for the semi-auto's comes from.

I used to have a S&W mod. 60 Chief's special in stainless steel. At the time, I didn't know it's real value. Stupidly (I still kick myself for that one), I traded it in (along with some cash) for a Browning shotgun. I liked it and figured I could always pick another one up for somewhere around the price that I got for it. WRONG! My stupid mistake.... didn't even need the money but it was one of those instances where I preferred the wife not know about it so I didn't want to put it on the CC or write a check. So, I traded in the thing that I was least interested in at the time, my only revolver.

That was two years ago. Now, after having started a search for a replacement, I see how wrong I was, not only in estimating it's value but also the growing desirability for these S&W revolvers.

As to what I'm looking for now, I think I'm leaning towards something in stainless, due to the durability of the finish. But blued/nickel would also be fine, as long as it still has a beautiful finish. As to size, there's so many nice ones out there.....probably something like a 586 / 686 / 29-2 / 29-3 / 610, something in that size/shape; sturdy and solid. I'm not really that partial to any specific caliber, just nothing exotic. Depending on the gun/condition, I may not even shoot it, or if I did, it wouldn't be often.

Again, thanks for your input, and please keep it coming.

I do have another revolver now, that I recently picket up. A Ruger Vaquero:
 

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Wow not to P*ss you off but you are wrong about collectables. Many of the most desirable firearms are by far less than nib. This might be true with newer S&W(1970's) but the older you get the less .
Condition matters but some of us can not afford to buy a nib TL or RM but to say the lessor condition guns are not collectable? I have a few nice pieces but I enjoy all of my accumulation.
With respect,
Mark Wyatt

Mark,

I couldn't agree with you more. We are currently seeing a recent demand and higher sales prices of certain models that a few years ago we would never have believed would become highly desirable with rapidly increasing prices.

The OP may want to first decide what frame size, barrel length and caliber is most appealing to him then look for one in the age, condition and price range that he is comfortable with.
 
I've been collecting firearms for 40 years, leaning heavily towards Smith & Wessons, the best advice I can give you is to go out and buy the Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson, third edition. That will arm you (pun intended) with more great information than you'll get in years of collecting.
Next, as others have said, condition is everything. The closer to NIB you can find/afford the more it will retain it's value, all else being equal. If you want to shoot your acquisitions, avoid true NIB, concentrate on 95% and above examples.
Most of all, collect what you enjoy, there are enough paths to follow in this hobby for everyone, the goal is to have a collection, big or small that you are happy with.
Good luck and welcome to the sickness.
RD
 
My rule of thumb is to only buy something you like. Then, if by some strange twist of fate, the value decreases, you can still enjoy the gun for what it is.
 
It seems that some of the considerations discussed here blurr the lines between what a collection is and what constitutes an investment. Anyone who has more than a few guns is a collector, or at least an accumulator. An accumulator is a collector who does not have any specificity and accumulates guns that appeal to him without adhearing to any constraint or condition. Generally, a gun collector is one who acquires, or accumulates, guns on the basis of size, age, caliber, or other specific interest.
Almost all collectors recognize "condition" as being king when making acquisitions and appreciate their guns as being examples of both use, beauty, vintage, scarcity, or perhaps all of these things. An investor makes selections based upon the appreciation of others and their probable future scarcity, which may make their guns more valuable at some point in the future.
To realize "significant" gains as an investment, guns are often unfired and still NIB with all the original documentation included. By and large this is reserved for those with significant disposable income and a long-term investment horizon. For most of us, being a collector means making wise selections of handguns that are of specific interest to us and are recognized by others as being valuable works of art, history, and use. These guns will always appreciate in value, but not likely sell for such large prices as those held by or offered for sale by investors.
This forum has numerous examples of fine collections of vintage Smith & Wesson handguns that represent the finest workmanship, beauty, and historic interst that a firearm could possess. Because they were carefully selected or accumulated and meticulously careed for, they are very valuable, indeed. If you plan to own more than a few, make you selections based upon your interests [including shooting] and pay careful attention to the details of beauty and history; and you will find you ultimately wind up with a real collection and one that is valuable and a pleasure to own.
 
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Ordered the Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson, third edition as advised.

The more I look around, the more I think I'm drawn to the N frame models (27 and 29). I'm not sure, but I think I'm starting prefer the blued models over the SS. At what point on these revolvers did S&W transition from the older rich, beautiful bluing job to the "not-so-great" ones?
 
Hello all,

Looking to start putting a piece or two of higher quality handguns in my collection ("higher quality" being relative to the firearms I currently have).

Although I'm not particularly really a fan of revolvers (I much prefer semi-auto's over revolvers when shooting), I do like their looks and solid workmanship and that's why I'm looking for something that would be worthwhile from S&W's revolver line.

What should I be looking for, if I want to obtain a VG-Excellent condition revolver, probably something in the $300-$700 range, that won't lose value and has the potential to increase in value? Something from the modern series (without the integral lock), or something a bit older, from the 1961-1980 series?

Any help and input would be appreciated.

Of course I'm biased by my own taste, but I would think a Model 10 in .38 Special (of course), possibly with a 5 inch barrel, would be a great example of a S&W revolver. I would get one with the diamond around the screw hole. An excellent example could easily be found in that price range.
Chris
 
Investment vs Recovery

Today you can easily spend $30K on an automobile, drive 5 years & 50K miles. If you get $10K when you sell the car you are lucky. My experience, is that $500 for a used S&W handgun 5 years ago, shoot 200 rounds per month and in 5 years you can still get $500 if you sell it. This assumes you took reasonable care of it -- cleaned, safe storeage, and didn't drop it on the concrete. I don't expect to make any significant profit on my used guns, and I won't lose 60% value either.

What to collect or accumulate? Tough question, I wanted an L-frame 357 in each barrel length, that is 4 guns. I now have 2-1/2", 4", 6", 8-3/8" barrels in SS and blued -- that 8 guns plus good buys on 3 or 4 others that caused duplicates in the herd. :DIt's a disease!!:D Treat the symptoms and enjoy the cure.

Decide what you really like and want, then enjoy. My bank savings account is earning 0.05% APR. Confused, if you save $1,000 for 1 year you get $5.00 interest. S&W revolvers will do better than that. Again, enjoy your collection.
 
Forget about the money/investment part of it.The main return will be your enjoyment,so buy wht you like.Imo,a rimfire K frame will be the most liquid,the most fun.Buy the best condition that you can.
 
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