BillBro
Member
Is it possible to remove some rust from say, a case hardened trigger and hammer?
Color case hardened surface
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You will most likely remove the case hardening as it it very thin…
As a child, I used steel wool to remove rust from a rusted stevens shotgun. Took the case hardening color off first. Inside the action it is still beautiful, outside is grey. Don't have an answer. Just be careful.
It is a very thin and not-too-durable coating of deposited carbon. Some gunsmiths apply a "clear coat" finish over the color case hardening decorative finish. The "hardening" refers to the surface effect of the heat treatment of the steel; the "case color" is just the layer of colored carbon deposited on the hardened steel. Nothing about the case color layer itself is hard or hardened.
Marksman
Member
Case coloring is very fragile, it can be removed with a pencil eraser so I would not even think of using anything of an abraisive nature to attempt to remove rust. A Chore Boy is not pure copper but copper plated steel contrary to popular opinion. A little Hoppe's on a cleaning patch may remove light rust without harming the case colors, just go easy and don't rub hard it may need to be soaked for a little while.
The colors themselves in Case Hardening Colrs are only microns thick,,or so I'm told by scientific types that know about that side of the topic.
That's pretty thin!
The actual (Case) Hardened surface may extend down anywhere from nearly nothing to several .000 of an inch in depth.
Cyanide process produced Case Colors generally stand up to more handling before wearing off when compared to Bone&Charcoal produced case colors. Just my experience.
Not every instance is the same, but that's just a general rule.
Neither will stand up to much scrubbing to remove rust or other blemishes in or on the steel surface being so thin.
The color layer is often described as being 'fragile' no matter how it's produced and it really is an after effect of the particular case hardening process used.
The colors can be produced w/o even introducing any hardening into the surface of the metal.
This is sometimes done to avoid the chance of warpage or cracking the part when the quench is done. Temperature of the parts being 'colored' and even the quench being sometimes warmed slightly are regulated to bring about this desired effect.
These colors will wear very fast in most instances though.
That's pretty thin!
The actual (Case) Hardened surface may extend down anywhere from nearly nothing to several .000 of an inch in depth.
Cyanide process produced Case Colors generally stand up to more handling before wearing off when compared to Bone&Charcoal produced case colors. Just my experience.
Not every instance is the same, but that's just a general rule.
Neither will stand up to much scrubbing to remove rust or other blemishes in or on the steel surface being so thin.
The color layer is often described as being 'fragile' no matter how it's produced and it really is an after effect of the particular case hardening process used.
The colors can be produced w/o even introducing any hardening into the surface of the metal.
This is sometimes done to avoid the chance of warpage or cracking the part when the quench is done. Temperature of the parts being 'colored' and even the quench being sometimes warmed slightly are regulated to bring about this desired effect.
These colors will wear very fast in most instances though.
scooter123
Member
The best option is to take the parts and boil them in water for about 45 minutes or so. Doing this will convert Red Rust into Black Oxide because this is a primary step in Gun Bluing. After the conversion wait for the parts too cool and brush them lightly with a nylon or bronze brush to remove any loose debris. Then take some 30 weight, NON DETERGENT oil (lawn mower oil) and soak the parts with that oil, let it soak in for an hour and then wipe it dry with a paper towel. As for the effect on color case hardening in part that is determined with how well the original case coloring was done but the effect of boiling in water is usually somewhat restorative so you may see a slight increase in the intensity of the colors. With poorly done case coloring what happens is basically a flip of a coin. BTW, to effect Temper on steel the bare minimum temp is 400 degrees F, so no need to worry about the effect on temper.
Well fellas, thanks for the answers.
Yeah, I know CCH is not the most durable which is why I asked because I certainly didnt know of any way to remove it and not destroy the colors.
I bought a trigger and hammer, narrow ones to try on my 29 and as wr know a camera can take great pics and hide alot too and these pics were hiding some rust, rust to the point of it being able to catch a fingernail easily, I was quite angry because the descriotion also said nothing about any rust, and yes, the rust will be visible when installed in the firearm, its also rusted in areas that will be inside.
I immediately soaked the parts in Kroil for about 2 weeks, ni joy. Next I soaked in clp for a week, no joy so then I put them back in Kroil and cut a little square of white scotchbrite, its non-abrasive, and took a pencil eraser and rubbed back and forth and again, no joy!!!.
Good idea with the boiling scooter, might try that next. I also thought about Evaporust but I dont know if it will effect the CCH. The coloring on both pieces is exceptional, Ive seen few more vibrant so I jist dont want to screw that up.
Yeah, I know CCH is not the most durable which is why I asked because I certainly didnt know of any way to remove it and not destroy the colors.
I bought a trigger and hammer, narrow ones to try on my 29 and as wr know a camera can take great pics and hide alot too and these pics were hiding some rust, rust to the point of it being able to catch a fingernail easily, I was quite angry because the descriotion also said nothing about any rust, and yes, the rust will be visible when installed in the firearm, its also rusted in areas that will be inside.
I immediately soaked the parts in Kroil for about 2 weeks, ni joy. Next I soaked in clp for a week, no joy so then I put them back in Kroil and cut a little square of white scotchbrite, its non-abrasive, and took a pencil eraser and rubbed back and forth and again, no joy!!!.
Good idea with the boiling scooter, might try that next. I also thought about Evaporust but I dont know if it will effect the CCH. The coloring on both pieces is exceptional, Ive seen few more vibrant so I jist dont want to screw that up.
ACORN
Member
Personally I'd be leery of Evaporust.
Sort of at a loss. I boiled the parts for about an hour and pulled them out to cool, soaked in oil, and rubbed lightly with bronze wool and that stuff (rust) is still there. Perhaps it was worse than I thought. Mind you, theyrr not covered in rust or anything, they just have little patches that will be visible when installed. Good news is the colors were not at all affected by any of this, bad news is the converted oxide is still there in another form. Just going to have to live with it or dont put them in the gun I suppose. Im thinking the latter. Gonna just keep soaking in clp or something.
Oh, what is it about the Evaporust that gives you pause? Just curious.
Oh, what is it about the Evaporust that gives you pause? Just curious.
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scooter123
Member
If you decode to boil the parts soak them in some Acetone or Isopropal Alcohol or similar alcohol based solvent. Rust bluing works well only if the parts are completely free of oil. If you want more details then go to Youtube and look at Mark Novak's video on Rust Bluing. It's actually a very durable surface if kept "filled" with oil and any rust is easy to clean up by simple boiling. I found an old wood rasp in a pile of sawdust that got wet from a bit of seepage during a monumental rain storm. That rasp had been in that corner of the basement for at least a year and sort of resembled a rust colored corn cob with a handle when I pulled it out. Brushed off all the sawdust And dropped in a large pot and boiled it for 2 hours. When that was done sprayed it down with WD-40. You can see the results for yourself. BTW, that rasp is as sharp as it was when it was brand new.
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Looks amazing!
DesertTortoise
Member
Rust conversion process example on case colored parts
Before:
Surface rust forms immediately after decreasing with acetone:
After multiple rounds of rust conversion and carding with 0000 steel wool:
Before:
Surface rust forms immediately after decreasing with acetone:
After multiple rounds of rust conversion and carding with 0000 steel wool:
