The right side frame screw in the front position,,the same one that releases the cylinder and crane from the frame on a S&W,,also releases the cyl&crane on the Colt.
There's no side plate on that side on the Colt, that's on the left side.
That screw when turned in or out will lift a bushing with it that does the actual engagement with the crane to hold it in place. That is the rounded head 'pin' you see right next to and partially overlapped by the screw itself.
The screw has a second shoulder under the head that engages the bushing and runs it up and down as the screw is turned.
You shouldn't have to fully remove the screw & bushing,,just back it out far enough to clear the crane inside. Then like a S&W,, the cyl and crane slide forward off the frame.
If you do remove the screw and the bushing,,no problem. Nothing will pop out or fly off to some dark corner of the room. No springs or plungers hiding in there.
Just don't loose the 2 pieces. They are sometimes a bit difficult to handle and restart back into the frame as they have to be positioned as one unit together, set into the frame and the screw then started to draw the bushing down with it.
A simple cleaning of the crane spindle:
If you just remove the cyl & crane from the frame.
Then pull the crane forward as far as it will go (as far as the ejector rod head generally or nearly that),,you can clean and lube the crane spindle itself. That may go a long way in helping the revolver work smoother and not have to bother with the disassembly described below.
When you do pull the crane forward out of the cylinder as an assembly,,you will be pulling against the internal ejector spring and the crane will want to spring back into the cylinder. That is normal. It just makes it a little difficult sometimes to hang onto when cleaning it up like this.
If you want to fully disassemble the cylinder itself:
Taking the cyl assembly apart from that point is more involved than a S&W.
It involves removing the ratchet/star from the back end. Problem is that it is screwed onto the center rod and then staked into position.
You can see the small stake marks down in the center hole where the bolt engages.
Don't be tempted to just wrestle the ratchet off and over power the stake marks either with the most commonly misused disassembly Colt tool,,the needlenose pliers. Or just by somehow clamping the extended extractor/star and turning the cylinder. That will result in bending and twisting the fragile fingers of the extractor and it's hell to ever get them just right again.
The revolver can be kicked out of time if the ratchet fingers are bent and then refitted and everything doesn't go back exactly as orig. Touchy little things they are.
A tool, either commercially made or shop made to engage the empty shell slots in the extended ratchet and then used to turn the ratchet off is the proper way. Even then you have to be careful and watch what you're doing.
Once that is off, there is a bushing down in the cylinder that needs to come out, It's unscrewed to remove it. Problem is it's down in there and it needs a spanner type . You need a hollow ended tool with a 2 prong spanner type head to engage and unscrew that bushing.
I think Brownells still sells this tool. Don't know about the first one.
Some 'smiths just make their own.
Most 'smith just don't want to work on Colts.
Hope this helps.
Nice revolvers, They changed the name of them to the Official Police somewhere in their mfg history. Probably for Marketing direction.
