Colt open top

Collo Rosso

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Thanks to those that recommended the Army grip size. I picked this up a couple hours ago and once in my hand I knew it was the right choice. Cimarron (Uberti) model 1872 open top with Army grip, 7 1/2" barrel in 44 special.

open_top_3.jpg

open_top_4.jpg


I don't know why but I'm fascinated by these pistols. To me it's a beautiful piece of 19th century industrial art. I'm getting weird in my old age!
 
Beautiful.

Just make sure the arbor is not too short (easy fix if it is). It's common on Ubertis.
 
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I've got the 5 1/2 Bbl version with the Navy (?) grip.
One of my very few 'modern' gun purchases.
I happened upon 2 of them at a show. Cimmaron marked, made by Uberti.

One was full nickel and still NIB. It wwas in 44 Colt caliber (actually just 44Russian I believe) but marked as 44Colt.
The other one slightly used but w/box and in 44special. Blue and CCH
Very nicely priced if I bought both,,so I did along with a STAR DK 380.

I bought them with the idea of resale. But like them so much I kept the latter one. I did resell the nickel job. Should have kept the DK too but that went away also.
Other than a couple small problems with it that I fixed up it's a fine shooter and I too enjoy the gun greatly.
Cast bullet loads and Bullseye powder make a great paper puncher.

I like that Army grip on yours. Might have to look for one of those too.!
Congrats on a fine choice.
 
Beautiful.

Just make sure the arbor is not too short (easy fix if it is). It's common on Ubertis.

Thank you for suggesting that. I did a google search on checking the arbor length and spent about an hour reading up on it. Should get a chance Sunday to pull it apart and check mine.
 
Agree the open tops are the buzz.
In my experience, the Uberti percussion revolvers suffer from the short arbor syndrome.
The cartridge guns, OTOH, seem to be properly fitted.
Mine is correctly fitted, a very accurate shooter:
r-m.jpg

After action:
G-B-U_1.JPG
 
Will someone tell us, in layman's terms, what this short arbor thing means and what it affects?

Does it affect just Uberti guns, or those by Pietta, etc., too?
 
Will someone tell us, in layman's terms, what this short arbor thing means and what it affects?

Does it affect just Uberti guns, or those by Pietta, etc., too?

Virtually every Uberti Colt replica comes with an arbor that is too short. You can check yours; if you insert the wedge in all the way it and it bottoms out against the side of the frame, or if the wedge goes in only part way and then the barrel begins to rub on the front of the cylinder, your gun's arbor is too short.

The good news is that this condition is easy enough to fix, and other than that, the Uberti's are the best replicas out there. Your gun will work as-is, but it will work much better if you fix the arbor. After a lot of use, all Colt style guns will loosen and will need an adjustment of the arbor.

BTW, another common problem is the front sight is usually too short, but that is easy enough to fix also (pull it out and make a new, taller one).

Here is how to adjust the arbor:

http://www.theopenrange.net/articles/Tuning_the_Uberti_Open_Top_Revolvers_Part_3.pdf

http://www.theopenrange.net/articles/Tuning_the_Uberti_Open_Top_Revolvers_Part_4.pdf
 
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Good grief! Someone needs to deluge Uberti with enough complaint letters that they fix that! :eek: :mad:
 
I do like that model 1872. I have one in .45 Schofield. What I noticed is that the firingpin is a bit to sharp. My cilinderpin is right lenght and do not give any problem.
 
For a quick(cheap) fix to the arbor on that Uberti,buy a few thin washers that will fit in the arbor hole and by trial and error drop them in until you get a snug fit.I had to polish one washer to get a snug fit but the result was simple and it worked.I actually measured the frame to barrel difference(overlap) with a caliper and fit the washers as needed.
 
The ice pick sharp firing pin was the first thing to get my attn when I fired my OpenTop the first time.
It would pierce the primers on most every round. So a carfull shortening and then rounding of the tip took care of that.

The loading gate opened a little stiffly, so I took the gate out and reshaped the cam surface the spring slides over during opening and closing and polished it till it worked easier.

The ejector rod would hang up right as you first pulled it back. It has to go around 2 corners sort-of before traveling straight back to eject the case.
Gently angling those corners in the channel of the ejector tube ended that problem.

I replaced the very heavy factory bolt/trigger spring in mine. It was so heavy it was pulling the bolt off the trigger cam prematurely.
I simply replaced with a spring wire sub sold for SASS shooters. I got it from Brownells, can't recall the name. Just a drop in part.
Made all the difference in smoothing out the action and improving the trigger pull.

The cylinder arbor on mine was OK as is.
I've fix up a few C&B revolvers with a shim on the end of the arbor.
I simply soft solder a suitible thickness of steel stock to the end of the arbor. Then trim it round and then final fit it to get the best fit.
No drilling of the arbor or other machining. Just a soft soldered blank on the end. Even brass would work OK if it's final fitted well.
They hold up just fine as there is no rotational or side stress on the tip. It just sits there and the bbl comes back and sets against it maintaining cyl gap..

Other than a previous owner using what appeared to be a rock to remove the wedge at one point, the revolver is in quite nice condition.
Shoots beautifully.
I may pull the trigger out and straighten it just a little. It feels a little uncomfortable as it is,, like it's got too much curve to it.
Maybe just my gnarly fingers, but I still think a slight gentle adjustment will help.
Maybe while it's apart I'll pretty it up a bit. That'll make the Fred Flintstone wedge removal method mark go away.

All that for a $200 repop revolver...
 

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