compare S&W new 317 to Ruger LCR 22?

[RichCapeCod]

I've fired both the 317 (I own one) & the LCR .22 and like them both. The LCR I shot hit to point of aim, something I can't say is true for my 317. The little S&W is fun to shoot and great for practicing rapid fire from concealment. I have no issues with ctg ejection. Some ammo is better in this regard than other brands. I keep Q-Tips and solvent in my shooting bag for those times when the gun gets "sticky!" Ditto for my S&W 63.

I'm not sure about the 317 but Ruger says it's OK to dry-fire the LCR .22.

Rich

Somehow a set of Boot-Grips wound up on my little 317. This is a mid-1990s model, thus no internal lock.

 

[DR505]

DIY, I think you are being unnecessarily harsh on the 317. Years back I had a Model 63 that did exactly the same thing you describe, tight chambers are a common ailment w/ earlier 63s, I have never heard of it with the 317.

I have used my friend's 317 for several shooting sessions with no problems, performs as well as my 2" 34. Of course much lighter.

You do realize DIY posted back in May, 2012, and still only has three posts? This is a resurrected thread.

 

[Tom C]

I am on my third cylinder for my 3" Model 317. The problem was that the empty cases would not extract. The last time I sent it in to S&W I again requested they put a steel cylinder in. They did and so far so good. I wouldn't buy another one.

I had similar issues with mine. It now has a stainless cylinder, Wolff springs, Pachmayr grips, a black, serrated ramp front sight and standard square notch rear sight. It is now a pretty sweet gun. It picked up a few oz. with the steel cylinder, which for me is a good thing.

I also have 3" and 5" Model 63s and a 4" SP101 .22. I like all of them, but the 5" 63 may be the most useful for me.

 

[snubbiefan]

I remember Tom's former posting concerning the SS cylinder swap. I called Smith to see if they would change mine and they said sure....$140. I thought about it for a few days and called back....was told they would not do it because they would not put the stainless cylinder on an aluminum yoke....which I can fully understand. I would want the yoke and cylinder to both be stainless. I'm wondering here and have a question for Tom....did they change the yoke, or simply install an M63 cylinder. Nothing wrong with my 317, but I thought about doing this conversion anyway. The older 63 cylinder I had on hand would not fit (too long), but the newer model might???

 

[Tom C]

I remember Tom's former posting concerning the SS cylinder swap. I called Smith to see if they would change mine and they said sure....$140. I thought about it for a few days and called back....was told they would not do it because they would not put the stainless cylinder on an aluminum yoke....which I can fully understand. I would want the yoke and cylinder to both be stainless. I'm wondering here and have a question for Tom....did they change the yoke, or simply install an M63 cylinder. Nothing wrong with my 317, but I thought about doing this conversion anyway. The older 63 cylinder I had on hand would not fit (too long), but the newer model might???

I just went down and checked; the yoke is aluminum. Mine was changed because the barrel/cylinder gap had a slight valley in it which produced a gas jet that quickly eroded the cylinder face. On the second trip to the factory for the same issue, they followed my recommendation and put in the stainless cylinder. They also put in a new barrel and I don't know what else. Fortunately the reinstalled my serrated ramp front sight. Works fine now. Really likes Federal match stuff.

 

[snubbiefan]

Thanks for the info Tom. I have remembered that discussion, because like I said....I think a stainless cylinder in a 317 is the cats pajamas....as they say. I can't see how much harm it could cause other than possible early end-shake issues. The yoke-tube would be the place to see the wear as opposed to an aluminum cylinder "sharing" the wear. I really don't have any worries about the aluminum cylinder as to strength, but that finish is the first thing to go on a 317. I have seen many of the older ones with worm-trails on them.

 

[Tom C]

Thanks for the info Tom. I have remembered that discussion, because like I said....I think a stainless cylinder in a 317 is the cats pajamas....as they say. I can't see how much harm it could cause other than possible early end-shake issues. The yoke-tube would be the place to see the wear as opposed to an aluminum cylinder "sharing" the wear. I really don't have any worries about the aluminum cylinder as to strength, but that finish is the first thing to go on a 317. I have seen many of the older ones with worm-trails on them.

I noticed the very slight V in the forcing cone early on. I was surprised how much and how quickly it ablated the face of the cylinder. Now with a stainless cylinder and a properly cut forcing cone things are good. I like the increase in weight. My scale says 3.8 oz. increase to 17.8 with the Pacymayr Gripper grips. I can shoot it better with just the slight increase in weight.