In regards to revolvers, proponents of concealed carry typically shy away from anything longer than 4”. Searching for viable methods in carrying a 6” revolver in any frame size proved to be as elusive as one might seem. But if you’re like me and want to carry what you shoot most often… read on. I picked up a 686-6 (six round) 6” a few months ago. While a joy for general range shooting and target work, the L frame poses several obstacles for the gunner wanting to tote his steel. And for those wanting to conceal said gun, the options narrow considerably. The first hurdle is choosing an appropriate holster. Ready- made holsters for 6” guns usually pander to the cowboy action crowd or open carry segment. After searching for several months I decided on a Sourdough Pancake from Simply Rugged with included inside-the-waistband straps. The provided slots double the rig as an excellent field holster for hunting applications. The IWB straps are conveniently located as far away from the cylinder as possible. Bob Leahy definitely did his homework on this one. Worn at the 4 o’clock position with IWB straps, the holster provides plenty of coverage and secures the 44 oz. gun better than I expected.
But a good holster is only the first step. The big rubber Hogues Smith & Wesson provides on L frames are a nasty bulk when you’re trying to conceal them. Try sitting down with a 6” holstered revolver that wears a Hogue; you’ll look like you have a misplaced 12” bone growing out of your back. Here’s where it gets tricky; you want the smallest grip possible, but one that provides ample space to lend a grip and tame recoil. Initially, I ordered some Retro Combats, square to round butt conversion, finger grooves from Ahrends. While waiting for the grips I decided I would need to go smaller. I placed a second order from Top Gun Supply which happened to have some Ahrends boots grips, finger groove, round butt, in cocobolo. The boot grips are flush with the bottom of the frame, but still allow me to wrap my pinky around the bottom with my support hand for a full grip. I ran some full house reloads with the boot grips and besides altering my trigger finger placement a little bit, I could not tell much difference in recoil from the Hogues. A 6” L frame with boot grips becomes concealable at this point. No more freaky bone sticking out the back. I can sit down comfortably and get up with nothing more than an inconspicuous tug on the back of my shirt to make sure the grip isn’t catching on any fabric.
A third and equally essential piece of equipment is the gun belt. Notice I said gun belt and not just belt. If you want to carry a cell phone on your hip then get a belt. If you want to carry a gun then get a gun belt. Any part of your gun rig can make or break your experience and comfort so don’t cheap out. I went with a 1.75” setup from The Beltman in brown with a square silver colored buckle. It’s the finest belt I’ll ever own and I say that because I doubt I’ll ever have to replace it.
Finally, there is the question of reloads. I use Safariland comp-1s for my J frame and I really prefer the pushing motion to release cartridges rather than relying on fine motor skills to twist a knob in combat conditions. I naturally chose the comp-2s as my reloading platform and practiced with them considerably. I carry two comp-2s in my right pocket, habitually readjusted over my keys when I exit the vehicle. The keys typically get yanked out when I’m doing a reload but at that point I really don’t think it matters.
The only thing left is to practice. Clearing leather with a 6” revolver takes a little more time, but its very do-able. I tend to rotate my wrist to the left when the cylinder clears and then straighten out on presentation. And there you have it, a 6” L frame concealed.
But a good holster is only the first step. The big rubber Hogues Smith & Wesson provides on L frames are a nasty bulk when you’re trying to conceal them. Try sitting down with a 6” holstered revolver that wears a Hogue; you’ll look like you have a misplaced 12” bone growing out of your back. Here’s where it gets tricky; you want the smallest grip possible, but one that provides ample space to lend a grip and tame recoil. Initially, I ordered some Retro Combats, square to round butt conversion, finger grooves from Ahrends. While waiting for the grips I decided I would need to go smaller. I placed a second order from Top Gun Supply which happened to have some Ahrends boots grips, finger groove, round butt, in cocobolo. The boot grips are flush with the bottom of the frame, but still allow me to wrap my pinky around the bottom with my support hand for a full grip. I ran some full house reloads with the boot grips and besides altering my trigger finger placement a little bit, I could not tell much difference in recoil from the Hogues. A 6” L frame with boot grips becomes concealable at this point. No more freaky bone sticking out the back. I can sit down comfortably and get up with nothing more than an inconspicuous tug on the back of my shirt to make sure the grip isn’t catching on any fabric.
A third and equally essential piece of equipment is the gun belt. Notice I said gun belt and not just belt. If you want to carry a cell phone on your hip then get a belt. If you want to carry a gun then get a gun belt. Any part of your gun rig can make or break your experience and comfort so don’t cheap out. I went with a 1.75” setup from The Beltman in brown with a square silver colored buckle. It’s the finest belt I’ll ever own and I say that because I doubt I’ll ever have to replace it.
Finally, there is the question of reloads. I use Safariland comp-1s for my J frame and I really prefer the pushing motion to release cartridges rather than relying on fine motor skills to twist a knob in combat conditions. I naturally chose the comp-2s as my reloading platform and practiced with them considerably. I carry two comp-2s in my right pocket, habitually readjusted over my keys when I exit the vehicle. The keys typically get yanked out when I’m doing a reload but at that point I really don’t think it matters.
The only thing left is to practice. Clearing leather with a 6” revolver takes a little more time, but its very do-able. I tend to rotate my wrist to the left when the cylinder clears and then straighten out on presentation. And there you have it, a 6” L frame concealed.
