You can distort the bullet, causing inaccuracy, but you'd probably have to really overdo it to affect pressure. Regardless of the type of crimp used, crimp only enough to prevent bullet movement under recoil and no more. I've yet to find a need for a heavy crimp.Are there any consequences to taper crimping your Bullet too tightly. ie higher pressures.
In loading the .357 for more than fifty years, almost exclusively with cast bullets of the proper weight (the 160 grain H&G #51 SWC, the original .357 Magnum bullet), I've seen nothing in the way of evidence that a heavy crimp promotes proper and complete powder burn. A roll crimp will work, a taper crimp will work as well, but neither needs to be overdone. However, there's no real defining terms for the degree of crimp, so it's best to experiment if you have an interest in accuracy.357, as has been stated, needs a good crimp to function effectively. A roll crimp is vastly more effective for this purpose than a taper crimp, and I'm partly agreeing/partly disagreeing with @rockquarry above, you want the crimp to prevent motion of the bullet (which prevents the bullet from moving forward and locking up the cylinder ) - and you want it firm enough for the bullet to not begin to move forward upon firing until the temperature and pressure in the cartridge case rises sufficiently for reliable, consistent ignition (proper powder burn) and bullet velocity when it leaves the barrel.
Historically, there have been tools for knurling a cannelure in the bullet but in sixty years of reloading I have never found an occasion requiring use of it, but there are those who just must experiment in the excess.
Somewhere, in a box, I have the cannelure tool I bought over 40 years ago. I tried it once or twice and gave up on it. I'd forgotten about it.357, as has been stated, needs a good crimp to function effectively. A roll crimp is vastly more effective for this purpose than a taper crimp, and I'm partly agreeing/partly disagreeing with @rockquarry above, you want the crimp to prevent motion of the bullet (which prevents the bullet from moving forward and locking up the cylinder ) - and you want it firm enough for the bullet to not begin to move forward upon firing until the temperature and pressure in the cartridge case rises sufficiently for reliable, consistent ignition (proper powder burn) and bullet velocity when it leaves the barrel.
Historically, there have been tools for knurling a cannelure in the bullet but in sixty years of reloading I have never found an occasion requiring use of it, but there are those who just must experiment in the excess.
I had one years ago and it worked well; just couldn't see much point in it.Somewhere, in a box, I have the cannelure tool I bought over 40 years ago. I tried it once or twice and gave up on it. I'd forgotten about it.
We do what works well for us. Few such "rules" are absolute.Taper crimping is principally intended to remove the flare from the case expanding for ammunition for semi-automatic pistols. It is not really intended to hold the bullet in place against recoil as is a roll crimp for revolver cartridges. Forget the taper crimp die and if you do not have a roll crimp die then BUY ONE and use it!
To answer the original question, NO. You cannot over crimp with a taper crimp die, and it will only reduce the diameter of your bullets by trying to get a heavy crimp with that die. It would have little to no effect on pressures.