Corrosion issues with Nickle plated S&W

idaho

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A few weeks ago I picked up a nice little snubby K frame .38 spl. that is nickle plated from a pawn shop for dirt cheap. It is somewhat pitted...especially on the outer edges of the triger guard. I've heard of people taking a scotch brite pad to stainless guns to work out some minor pitting issues...but this is nickle plated. Is there any way to help beautify my new gun without sending it to S&W or taking it to a gunsmith for a professional job? It will be a well carried little shooter...but I would like to pretty it up a bit if possible. Any suggestions are warmly welcome. Thanks!

--idaho
 
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A few weeks ago I picked up a nice little snubby K frame .38 spl. that is nickle plated from a pawn shop for dirt cheap. It is somewhat pitted...especially on the outer edges of the triger guard. I've heard of people taking a scotch brite pad to stainless guns to work out some minor pitting issues...but this is nickle plated. Is there any way to help beautify my new gun without sending it to S&W or taking it to a gunsmith for a professional job? It will be a well carried little shooter...but I would like to pretty it up a bit if possible. Any suggestions are warmly welcome. Thanks!

--idaho
 
Idaho,

Without a photo I'm not sure I can give you the right advice. I assume you're talking about fine surface - as opposed to deep - pitting.

With nickel you're in between a rock and hard place.

Best way to clean is mechanically, but you have to know what you are doing.

If you are going to carry it and looking only to "spruce" it up then lightly polish with a cloth buffing pad - a drill-powered rotary pad. These are available for the Dremmel tool. Don't apply it too long in one spot otherwise it will "burn" through the finish. Once you do a spot you'll have to do the entire revolver to make it match. It takes patience. Make sure you use the finest textured pad available.

Don't use steel wool.

Chemicals won't help. There are acid-based cleaners out there. They can "burn" the finish - and make it a lot worse.

I'll bet someone on this forum has the perfect fix.
 
Because of the nature of nickel plating, steel has to first be plated with copper before the nickel will adhere, at least using the electroplating process such as is used by S&W. There are small electroplating kits available and I believe Brownell's has an electroless nickel kit but it is fairly involved to use and is not really designed for touch up. There is a type of kit that uses a battery along with a brush on solution. You would have to first grind or sand off the pitted area and use sequentially finer grit paper down to probably 600 grit or so. Then do a thin plating of copper and finish with the nickel plate. Blending might be a challenge. Keep in mind that nickel will yellow somewhat or dull in time. If it was my piece and I liked it, I would also investigate one of the newer coating processes.
 
Originally posted by MaineProbation:
Because of the nature of nickel plating, steel has to first be plated with copper before the nickel will adhere, at least using the electroplating process such as is used by S&W.

This is absolutely incorrect. S&W has never used a copper under-strike in plating any of its guns, never. This is one of the most frequent errors which many seem to repeat over and over again. In short, you don't know what you are talking about.
 
ALK8944: Since I and probably 99% of the people here believe that Smith revolvers with nickel plate have copper underneath the nickel please enlighten us as to what is really there. We were always taught to never use solvents like Hoppe's #9 on nickel plate as the underlying copper would be affected.

Thanks
 
anyhow,,,,
while it's true S&W never used a copper wash the older nickel plating was and is a bugger to fix.... other than replating..best bet depending on how deep the pitting is to to use a "light abrasive" (600 is probally the heaviest) and working down to the finest grade you can find. (auto parts stores are great for this)
then "blending" in the area with either mothers mag or flitz polish..you can get a mirror shine and it could be possable to even get something close to a match in finish...however,,, now your down to bare steel..you would probally want to treat it with a good gun wax, and keep an eye on that area for any rust or discoloration and repolishing & waxing when nessary
and as for nickel plating..... heres an explanation of electroless nickel plating...

Electroless nickel plating is an auto-catalytic reaction used to deposit a coating of nickel on a substrate. Unlike electroplating, it is not necessary to pass an electric current through the solution to form a deposit. This plating technique is to prevent corrosion and wear. EN techniques can also be used to manufacture composite coatings by suspending powder in the bath.

Electroless nickel plating has several advantages versus electroplating. Free from flux-density and power supply issues, it provides an even deposit regardless of workpiece geometry, and with the proper pre-plate catalyst, can deposit on non-conductive surfaces.

Pretreatment of parts for EN plating

Before performing electroless nickel plating, the material to be plated must be cleaned by a series of cleaning chemicals such as bases and acids, this process is called the pre-treatment process. Failure to remove unwanted "soils" from the part's surface would result in poor plating. Each pre-treatment chemical must be followed by water rinsing (normally two to three times) to remove the chemical that adheres to the surface. Degreasing removes oils from surface; acid cleaning removes scaling. Activation is done with a weak acid etch, or nickel strike, or, in the case of non-metallic substrate, a proprietary solution. After the plating process, plated materials must be finished with an anti-oxidation or anti-tarnish chemical (trisodium phosphate, chromate etc) and pure water rinsing to prevent unwanted stains. The rinsing materials must then be completely dried off or sometimes baked off to obtain the full hardness of the plating film.
 
Count me among the 99% who didn't know that S&W had never used a copper under plating process for nickel finishes! So, they have always used electroless nickel plating? Well, you learn something every day!
 
I don't know how bad the finish is, but, if it can't be cleaned up with Flitz and a soft cloth, learn to live with it or, get it replated. I would avoid anything more abrasive like Scotchbrite pads, steel wool or sandpaper. I would also avoid any power tools. I've even managed to scratch a nickle finish with a bronze brush and solvent.

I have seen a number of older Colts that had copper showing through the nickel when worn (I seem to think somewhere around the 1970's) I have never seen a Smith with copper under the nickel.
 
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