Couple of Smithing Questions

jkd88

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Hi Folks:

Newbie here trying to learn the art from the forum pros,

1) If I need to close up endshake by .004, is it OK to use two .002 bearings or must I use a single.004 bearing?

2) If I need to disassemble the cylinder from the yoke, can I get away with using empty shell cases to support the guide pin/star or do I need the extractor support rods from Brownells?

Thanks!
 
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Hi Folks:

Newbie here trying to learn the art from the forum pros,

1) If I need to close up endshake by .004, is it OK to use two .002 bearings or must I use a single.004 bearing?

2) If I need to disassemble the cylinder from the yoke, can I get away with using empty shell cases to support the guide pin/star or do I need the extractor support rods from Brownells?

Thanks!
 
Originally posted by jkd88:
Hi Folks:

Newbie here trying to learn the art from the forum pros,

1) If I need to close up endshake by .004, is it OK to use two .002 bearings or must I use a single.004 bearing?
It's OK to use two .002", but add just one first and then remeasure. There may be a "lip" on the inside face of the cylinder that keeps the shim from seating flat. Check the endshake before adding the second washer.


Originally posted by jkd88:

2) If I need to disassemble the cylinder from the yoke, can I get away with using empty shell cases to support the guide pin/star or do I need the extractor support rods from Brownells?

Thanks!

In a .38/357 cylinder, I think it's best to use 9mm fired brass to protect the star because they fit a lot tighter in the tubes. They may not go all the way in, but will hold the star dead tight when you twist on the end of the rod.

Remember, that rod has reverse threads on all modern SW revos.
 
Ok, I have a question for a gunsmith as well...

I see a crane stretcher on brownells, and I'm really not sure I Understand how it works, and I would like to know. It says the following on the description,

"Swages a small groove in the rear of the crane/ yoke tube to remove excess cylinder play. Also swages the retaining groove in .22 magazine tubes."

Anyone who can simplify this for me would be greatly appreciated.
 
The tool is essentially a modified tubing cutter.
Instead of having a sharp wheel that will cut copper tubing, the tool has a rounded wheel.

When the tool is put on the rear section of the yoke tube, tightened and rotated around the tube, it swages (presses) in a shallow groove.
This causes the tube to actually stretch or expand lengthwise.

Some gunsmiths make their own from a tubing cutter, but the wheel must be HARD steel and rounded enough that it will swage a groove and NOT cut.

BEFORE the tool is used, a hardened steel rod or mandrel is inserted into the yoke tube to support it and prevent the tube from being crushed.
 
Ok, I'm getting some good information here....so I'm going to ask a few more questions if ya'll don't mind. I hear the term "endshake" a lot, what exactly is it? And if a crane or yoke tube is bent how do you go about straigtening them?
 
End shake is the amount of front-to-back movement of the cylinder when the gun is closed up. A little is OK and maybe even necessary. Straightening the crane is almost an art form. You basically whack it with a lead bar to bend it back to where it's supposed to be. There is some technique involved in it, but thats basically it. It can become necessary after nimrods "snap" guns closed, among other horrific things lameoids do to good guns.
 
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