S&W 29-2 missing one cylinder extractor pin

[mojave30cal]

Today I was looking at a S&W 29-2 in nickel with the 8 3/8"
barrel made in 1980 according to the serial number. Upon close
examination I found that one of the extractor pins was missing
on the back of the cylinder under the extractor star. Considering
it's a .44 Magnum, is it safe to shoot with one of the extractor
pins missing?

A quick check on Numrich and Jack First shows none in stock.
Did find a 29-3 nickel cylinder on Ebay that has one of the
nickeled pins missing and the other intact for $69.00. Might
be the way to go? Any idea how much it would cost to have
a gunsmith install a missing extractor pin?

All things considered, it came with the presentation case that
needs to reflocked. It also had the cleaning rod and SAT. The
timing and lockup was good, with a little bit of end shake. How
much end shake is acceptable? There was no push off. Also,
two of the side plate screws were switched, including the flat
one that goes under the top of the target grips.

The asking price was $999.00 which is not bad, but there are
those considerations I just mentioned. Any suggestions would
be appreciated.

 

[series guy]

You can easily fabricate an extractor pin from a numbered drill bit. A little Loctite will keep it in place.

 

[67tempest]

If you can get the dimensions of the pin it wouldn't hurt to check with McMaster Carr. McMaster has hardened pins in every diameter and length you could possibly imagine.

 

[armorer951]

Extractor alignment pins are not necessary for proper function.

The pins are .055" in diameter and .210" in length and can be easily fabricated.


Carter

 

[6string]

I’d have a hard time walking out the door without that 29-2!

That’s a good price. You could probably talk’em down a little with your observations.

If you get it, please post some pics!

 

[Alk8944]

From Armorer951: The pins are .055" in diameter and .210" in length and can be easily fabricated.

He is correct!

Make one from a #54 AWG (.055") drill bit shank. Use red or green Loc-Tite to be sure is is retained. The Loc-Tite will make this a permanent repair, almost impossible to remove it again. A real gunsmith shouldn't charge more that $1 to install the pin if you buy/make one, at least I wouldn't! Probably just do it and tell you thanks for bringing it to me.

BTW, Jack First does have extractor pins, I just looked. You just have to look in the right place. They are under M&P named model and show as being for many models! You will probably find them under many other S&W model guns too.The extractor pin is the same for K, N models, not model specific, so these will work in your gun. They aren't Nickel though. If it is really important you could have blued screws stripped and Nickel plated. There are plating companies in Provo and SLC. I have no idea what they would charge for a few small screws.

 

[stansdds]

The missing extractor pin is not a huge issue, easy to replace. As for end shake, you need 0.001" for smooth function, 0.004" is about the maximum for S&W Magnum centerfire revolvers. At 0.004", you really should install a shim to correct the end shake. Inspect closely for signs of abuse, like erosion at the edge of the barrel forcing cone and lazy cylinder lock timing.

 

[Patrick L]

Agree with all, not a big issue at all. My K22 came to me missing one.

Someone on this forum was selling replacements really cheap, but for the life of me I can't remember who it was.

 

[Dennis2149]

Mentioned: Also,
two of the side plate screws were switched, including the flat
one that goes under the top of the target grips.

If not just replaced but actually switched, then correct me if I'm wrong, the flat-headed-under the grip side plate screw-is of a different thread pitch and could cause damage if forced into the wrong threaded frame screw whole.

 

[mojave30cal]

Thanks for all the replies. I did find some extractor pins on
Jack First, but they were .056" diameter. Everyone here
says .055". Hmm.

Also, if the flat head side plate screw has a different thread from the other two round head screws, I would have to think it
would do some damage if inserted in a wrong hole. I can't
imagine S&W would use a different thread on those three
side plate screws. Does anyone know for sure?

 

[armorer951]

In your particular model inquiry, the model 29-2, all of the sideplate screws have the same thread size. (5x44)

Two of the screws are crowned, and one is a flat head.

Make sure the crowned screw in "position 1" in the sideplate.....the yoke retention screw....is kept in that position, and is not mixed up with the other crowned screw located in the sideplate above the trigger. The button on the yoke of your revolver is fit to the crowned screw in position #1, and should remain there.



Carter

 

[ms]

wrong

Mentioned: Also,
two of the side plate screws were switched, including the flat
one that goes under the top of the target grips.

If not just replaced but actually switched, then correct me if I'm wrong, the flat-headed-under the grip side plate screw-is of a different thread pitch and could cause damage if forced into the wrong threaded frame screw whole.

Wrong. Same thread until later, with the spring-loaded tip.

 

[mojave30cal]

Thanks for clearing up the side plate screw thread issue. It
would seem to me that a missing ejector pin might be the
result of the previous owner shooting hot loads that might
have knocked the pin out due to heavy recoil. The cylinder does
have some end shake.

I'm going back to look at it again later this week. The guy
behind the counter said they have some wiggle room on the
price. We'll see.