Cracked Frame On Brand New J Frame Model 60

You are quite correct in your statement. So correct that I don't believe that this is actually a "brand new gun". My hunch is that an unscrupulous dealer palmed off this used gun as new and he was probably quite aware of the cracked frame.

I don't see the motive for doing things that way. With the cracked frame, a dealer could have gotten the brand new gun from S&W, and then sold that one. As new, if he is unscrupulous. Well, actually it would be new.
I think that a design requiring that the threads will come up to the specified torque at the same instant that the barrel is in alignment is unrealistic. Instances where the torque is max, and the sights are not "up" yet, would require some expensive "smithing". Won't happen. They just over torque, and set the barrel up for failure. That is a reason that I think 2 piece barrels are a superior design. Barrel alignment is not dependent on torque.

Best,
Rick
 
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Ooooh that looks really nice. I know what you mean about the wait. Which day did you send yours in?

I sent it back on 3/7/19, the same day I brought it home new. Considering the rep at S&W told me 4-6 weeks turn around time, I'm thrilled that it took only 22 days.
 
This is my first gun in this finish. Any tips on care and/or touch ups for future minor scratches?
 
This is my first gun in this finish. Any tips on care and/or touch ups for future minor scratches?


just used a lint free cloth to keep it wiped down, as you would any gun. You may want to pull the grips if you keep the rubber ones on say at least once a year and wipe down the covered area with a good rust preventative, stainless will still rust if left unattended in a humid environment.
 
I sent it back on 3/7/19, the same day I brought it home new. Considering the rep at S&W told me 4-6 weeks turn around time, I'm thrilled that it took only 22 days.

OK, that's good to know. Thank you. I sent mine on 4/13. We'll see how much of a difference there is in turn around.
 
The thread was a good read.

It all turned out well for the OP, so like a good Kung Fu movie we all laugh at the end!!:D:D

Also, I predict the sale of Reynolds Wrap will be up next quarter as the amount of foil hats will be on the rise with all these conspiracy theories. :D
 
I have seen many Model 37s cracked in that exact spot but never a model 36 or 60 (no dash or dash anything).

Don't beat yourself up. I've been collecting J-frames for 40 years and I'd never have expected nor looked at a new Model 60 to be cracked in that spot.
 
The thread was a good read.

It all turned out well for the OP, so like a good Kung Fu movie we all laugh at the end!!:D:D

Also, I predict the sale of Reynolds Wrap will be up next quarter as the amount of foil hats will be on the rise with all these conspiracy theories. :D

You're killing me! :D
 

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I have seen many Model 37s cracked in that exact spot but never a model 36 or 60 (no dash or dash anything).

Don't beat yourself up. I've been collecting J-frames for 40 years and I'd never have expected nor looked at a new Model 60 to be cracked in that spot.

Thanks! The experience has definitely made me wiser. I'm just really thankful for S&W's customer service. They were top notch.
 
Range Report

50 rounds through it so far with no malfunctions. I did run into a minor hiccup. After getting home from the range, I did an inspection and I found that the cylinder was progressively getting harder to open. It finally got to the point where I couldn't open it. I had to use a plastic pick to depress the locking pin. It opened up fine once I did that. I then inspected the rod and sure enough, it was a little loose. I finger tightened it (lefty tighty in this case) and now it opens smooth as silk.

Exactly how tight should it be to prevent it from coming loose but still removeable if the need ever arises?
 
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50 rounds through it so far with no malfunctions. I did run into a minor hiccup. After getting home from the range, I did an inspection and I found that the cylinder was progressively getting harder to open. It finally got to the point where I couldn't open it. I had to use a plastic pick to depress the "thingy in barrel lug" (sorry I don't know the correct term) that contacts the front of the ejector rod. It opened up fine. I then inspected the rod and sure enough, it was a little loose. I finger tightened it (lefty tighty in this case) and now it opens smooth as silk.

Exactly how tight should it be to prevent it from coming loose but still removeable if the need ever arises?

Check the screw on your thumbpiece. I had the same issue and the screw was not tight on my thumbpiece and I think that did the trick to tighten it up. Mine didn't get to the point as bad as yours but almost.
 
Check the screw on your thumbpiece. I had the same issue and the screw was not tight on my thumbpiece and I think that did the trick to tighten it up. Mine didn't get to the point as bad as yours but almost.

Screw is fine. My problem was most definitely that the ejector rod came unscrewed a bit. Might try clamping in a vise to tighten with wood to protect the rod. Of course, with some dummy rounds in the chambers to prevent damage.
 
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Any tips on care and/or touch ups for future minor scratches?

I treat all my S&W's the same. Old oily t-shirt for a wipe-down. If I need to address scratches I use an old sock and Flitz Polish (a clean old sock to wipe the polish off). Go easy on the stainless steel with the Flitz or you'll make it shine like a nickel one.

Finish with a good gun oil and that same oily t-shirt.

My two bits.
 
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