crimp
- Thread starter Rockets
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Titegroups
Member
Usually I go a bit more than 2. Hard to see well but 3 looks pretty heavy.
HAWKEYE10
Member
:) I agree with TG. You might play with the crimp a little and see which one burns the most powder and is the most accurate. Don
Center and right. For normal Special level loading I tend to crimp more like the center cartridge. For Magnum loads I'll go with the crimp applied to the right cartridge.
Is the one on the right using a Lee FCD? The bulge in the case going down to the base of the bullet would not make me happy. A Lyman M-Die expander might help with that plus a Redding Profile Crimp Die.
jepp2
Member
Purpose of the crimp:
- hold the bullet in place to generate a better burn on the powder before the bullet releases from the case.
- Hold the bullet in place during the firing of other rounds in the cylinder
Your load will not generate much recoil so the middle crimp should be more than adequate if you have good neck tension.
HP38 powder is quick burning and doesn't require a heavy crimp to get a good burn, so again the center crimp should be more than adequate. A taper crimp would probably work just as well for both reasons.
You are always balancing using enough crimp to satisfy the 2 reasons listed above, with case life. The more you crimp the more you work the brass. The brass will work harden and split the more it is worked.
My vote for this particular load would be the center crimp, #2.
- hold the bullet in place to generate a better burn on the powder before the bullet releases from the case.
- Hold the bullet in place during the firing of other rounds in the cylinder
Your load will not generate much recoil so the middle crimp should be more than adequate if you have good neck tension.
HP38 powder is quick burning and doesn't require a heavy crimp to get a good burn, so again the center crimp should be more than adequate. A taper crimp would probably work just as well for both reasons.
You are always balancing using enough crimp to satisfy the 2 reasons listed above, with case life. The more you crimp the more you work the brass. The brass will work harden and split the more it is worked.
My vote for this particular load would be the center crimp, #2.
358156hp
Member
The two on the left look like Winchester wadcutter brass, which would have thinner case walls than common 38 brass. The one on the right is a plain case, and could be anyones. The case on the right is likely thicker, and it may be possible that the bullet is slightly crooked in the case, but it's hard to tell for certain. If you see the outline of the bullets base all the way around the case, either your brass is a bit on the thick side, or your sizing die is a bit tight. Neither situation is a big deal, and totally negligible for every day shooting. If all 3 cases were sized in the same sizing die, I'd tend to believe the RH case is simply thicker than the two on the left. I just spent a couple of hours looking through my 38 spl cases for Winchester wadcutter brass for a friend of mine who wants to shoot bullseye this year. The good news is that I did manage to come up with 250 matched Winchester wadcutter cases for him.
OP
Rockets
Member
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No Lee FCD...just the rcbs roll die..Guess I went a little 2 much :(
the Lyman pistol m die set was just ordered from midsouth and should arrive within a week.
I used the same sizing die. This is mixed brass I picked up on one of the forums. I may sort it when I get a chance. I'll try those rounds tomorrow. Is Winchester the best brass around quality wise ?
Last edited:
Hook686
US Veteran
If I was shooting my light weight revolver where I am concerned with crimp jump I'd go for #3, otherwise #2 looks good to me.
ArchAngelCD
Moderator, SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
IMO somewhere in between #2 and #3 would probably be best.
