Current 'satin stainless' finish

The brush marks on mine were/are certainly less prominent than what I see on the OP's. Mine manufactured a little over a year ago.
 
I got a new 617 a couple of weeks ago. The lighting makes a huge difference on how the finish appears. In normal lighting the surface appears mostly scratch free. However the flash picture lighting brings out the fine polish marks.

Mine is a real good shooter and can put all the holes within a 1" splatter dot at 25 yards -- off a rest with a Burris FastFire sight. Now if I could shoot anywhere near that well offhand... That is with cheap Federal AutoMatch ammo.

The mount for the FastFire is my creation using CAD SW and my CNC mill.

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617_B.jpg
 
The finish on the OP's gun doesn't look Factory to me.

I agree with The Kernel. I would consider advice from The Kernel nearly sine qua non when looking for information on "newer" S&W revolvers.

I am speculating from a cell phone with less than ideal picture size. It appears there's a large scratch on the side plate just above the trigger. It's pure speculation but it appears someone attempted to fix scratches on the side plate with an abrasive that was too aggressive and did the same thing on the left side of the frame to make it resemble the side plate.

The good news is this is easy and very inexpensive to make look much better. Regardless I would contact the seller to see what your remedies are. I and other S&W Forum members have posted how to "fix" scratches on S&W brushed stainless finishes.

Here is information I have previously posted:

You can touch up the original finish on a brushed finish stainless steel gun and fix significant scratches with Scotch Brite pads. You can make it look original and very nice.

Scotch Brite pads come in different levels of coarseness.
Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand Pad - (600-800) 800 grit.
Green, called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600) 600 grit
Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand Pad - (320-400) - which is very coarse for removing deeper scratches.

Work in a small area with tiny (1" square) piece of pad and stroke in one direction only following the linear polishing direction from the factory. Avoid any surfaces but the brushed stainless surfaces. Start in the most unobtrusive area first to make sure you get a feel for it and like the result. Go slow and use a light hand. Generally the green pad can be used for all applications varying the pressure dependent upon the degree of the scratch you attempting to fix. You could finish off with the light grey pad. Look at You Tube for examples of how to do it or further research the S&W Forum.
 
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I have never seen an S&W come out of the box looking like that! Those are SCRATCHES!

A true "satin" finish is produced by bead blasting and results in a very attractive matte finish as found on my S&W M69. My X-frames came with rather coarse finishes...not as bad as yours, but judicious use of a Dremel and polishing compound has produced VERY beautiful, polished guns!
Good news for you...Dremels are manufactured in France so you should get a deal on one!

The problem with finishes is that anything less than a Dremel polish looks bland or worse. Other than Duracoat, the only way to repair or improve the finish is to use a buffing wheel and compound.
Whoa, whoa,.... Going out on a limb here but I don't think "Satin" stainless and "Matte" (or bead blasted) stainless finishes are the same thing at all. Apples and oranges.
 
I think it's normal - the lighting angle, and even OEM packing oil, makes all the difference. I have some late model stainless steel Smiths purchased NIB and I recall being rather disappointed at all the swirl marks in the finish when first inspecting the gun in the store, but I bought them anyway.

I'm not sure what it is, but after removing that packing oil, and just regular shooting, cleaning, and carrying the guns for a little while, it mostly just seems to go away - I love my Smith's SS finish and they are my favorites in my safe....

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So reading this thread lying in bed this morning, I just grabbed my night stand gun, looked it over, and thought "mine doesn't look like that anymore" ....but then I hit that finish with my flashlight from the right angle.... and yup, it's still there.

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It's mostly psychological for me I guess - the cosmetics just become a small component in the overall ownership experience. I do have to admit that these three SS Smith revolvers have, in no uncertain terms, converted me from a plastic semi-auto guy over to a revolver guy :).
 
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There are three stainless finishes:
1. Brushed. Sometimes referred to as satin. There will be superficial swirls and scratches in the surface.
2. Bead blasted. Sometimes referred to as matte. It will have a uniform flat silver-grey finish.
3. Polished. Very shiny to the point of looking like a nickel finish.

The photos of the side plate and left side of the frame show the swirls/scratches deeper and more pronounced than I am used to seeing and each vertical scratch looks longer than I am used to seeing. I will concede it might be possible to go lighting and camera angle to accentuate an original finish but I still believe the finish is atypical from most other brushed stainless steel S&W revolvers.
 
TAC – that's a good video, I don't see any marks on the finish.
Bob1943 - it's just the lighting not a deep scratch. I've tried to make better photos but no luck so far.
Reppans - mine looks very like your snubbie.

The lighting may well make the problem look more severe; the marks are not deep and I hope with your recommendations re: polishing they'll go away.
I've mentioned my disappointment to the seller who has yet to respond.
I've sent photos to S&W and await their reply.

I have a 686 CS-1 with a matte finish and no marks.
 
FWIW - This is the official response from S&W - "We would like to thank you for your e-mail and contacting Smith & Wesson / Thompson Center.

I have reviewed your pictures and this is normal. This is a Tampico brushed finish. These very fine lines are left by the polishing brush wheel.

Thank You for choosing Smith & Wesson / Thompson Center products. Have a great day.
Smith&Wesson values its customers and we are happy to have served you today. Please do not hesitate to contact us should you require further assistance.

Regards, Steve"

I haven't heard of the 'Tampico' finish and will try to avoid it in future. I thought that buying new and paying several times the price of a used item, I would get something really special. Not so. I like the other aspects and expect it will be an enjoyable shooter.
A+
 
Interesting especially re: Tampico brushing.
As Elite Stainless' describes it:
Polished Finishes

No. 3 An intermediate polish surface obtained by finishing with a 100-grit abrasive. Generally used where a semifinished polished surface is required. A No.3 finish usually receives additional polishing during fabrication.

No. 4 A polished surface obtained by finishing with a 120-150 mesh abrasive, following initial grinding with coarser abrasives. This is a general-purpose bright finish with a visible "grain" which prevents mirror reflection.

No. 6 A dull satin finish having lower reflectivity than a No. 4 finish. It is produced by Tampico brushing the No. 4 finish in a medium of abrasive and oil. It is used for architectural applications and ornamentation where a high luster is undesirable, and to contrast with brighter finishes.

No. 7 A highly reflective finish that is obtained by buffing finely ground surfaces but not to the extent of completely removing the "grit" lines. It is used chiefly for architectural and ornamental purposes.

No. 8 The most reflective surface; which is obtained by polishing with successively finer abrasives and buffing extensively until all grit lines from preliminary grinding operations are removed. It is used for applications such as mirrors and reflectors.
 
Hmmm, now I know why my NIB 629 appeared 'dirty'. Guess it was the oil coat.
 
I purchased a 617 six inch a couple of weeks ago. It has what I call a brushed stainless steel finish. Looks just like yours. The nice thing about that finish is that a green scrub pad will match the finish exactly, so if you get a scratch or rub marks you can take them right out.
 
I've worked it over with some auto scratch remover I have on hand and it has toned down the scratched look to the acceptable point. I'd sooner spend time shooting. In a way I'm lucky to have found a 4 inch 617 at all. I canvassed several shops before finding this and it was the last in stock. There is not much product around and no-one seems to know when new shipments will arrive. I suspect you guys are buying them as fast as S&W make them so there's none left for export.
 
I came across this thread 6 years after the OP. I have to leave it here for those worried about the finish in question that the look is normal. The scratches on the OP's 686 look more prominent most certainly due to light and angle. The scratched look is S&W's original and, to me, even preferable to high polished or bead blasted finish. My Kimber K6s also has the same finish. I even want all my Performance Center guns to have this look!
 
Many thanks to all who replied.
Sorry I forgot that without photos it didn't happen. I've attached two.
The consensus seems to be that what I have is normal and needs work if I want it to look better. I think it looks much like SweetMK's snubbie.
I live a days journey from the shop where I bought the gun so it's not practical to inspect before purchase nor to take it back. They are well established and, from my previous dealings, appear reputable, so I don't think they would pass off a used item fro new.
I've shot it twice and with Pistol ammo, have managed to keep in the black so don't think there's a canted barrel issue.

I've seen other references to Flitz so will try to find some and see how it goes.
Love the forum but am jealous of the many great Smith collections.
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From looking at the striations, consistency sweeping motions etc.

I'd say it was a factory finish via finishing machine.

Albeit the finishing isn't as fine as it should be based on a ton of pics of 617 folks have sent me so I can make sure they pic the correct part set before they order
 
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