Cutting barrel 4” to 3”

Ron In MD

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I’m going to have the barrel on M10 (made 1982) cut to 3” .
For those of you that have gone this route, show me pictures of yours, and what kind of sight you installed.
Thanks.
 
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Here are a couple of Model 64s cut to 3". One RB and one SQ.

Sights were picked up from Brownells or Midway, can't recall which. Had one done with the red and one with green fiber optic.

Pics aren't the best
 

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Groo here
Check with parts supplers [brownells , numrick ,etc]
and you might find a parts take off.
Just swap

Thanks for the lead.
Unless I haven’t looked in the right places, there are no M10 3” barrels available.
Besides, the M10 I own, while in excellent mechanical condition, leaves a lot aesthetically to be desired. So no problem with me having the barrel cut.
I’m also having it trimmed to round butt.
 
Here are a couple of Model 64s cut to 3". One RB and one SQ.

Sights were picked up from Brownells or Midway, can't recall which. Had one done with the red and one with green fiber optic.

Pics aren't the best


Thanks for the post.
I like that front sight option. Also, how the sides of the barrel were made flat so the writing isn’t off center, very cool.
 
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The question I have for you is: Are you OK with the "look" of the roll marks after a cut, or do you intend to simply shave them off, as shown with the slab-sided examples shown above? If your plan is the latter, I urge you to look for a 3" barrel and compare the cost to that of cutting and re-configuring the barrel sides. You may find that it doesn't cost much more (and may even be less if there isn't much fitting necessary) to replace instead of cut, all depending on your skills to do it yourself or what your gunsmith will charge.
For example, I replaced a 4" with a 3" on a Model 64 back in 2012 for $220, $165 of that going to the barrel. In the last year, I replaced a 4" with a 2" on a Model 34 for around $50 for the barrel and a 4" with a 3" on a Model 10 for $55 (barrel) plus $150 (work plus a new cylinder.) I also have 2 of the $149 J&G barrel-less frames waiting for 2" ($95) and 5" ($115) barrels I purchased online to be added. I don't anticipate either to be outrageously expensive for the 'smithing.
Anyway, just my experiences with barrel-related modification. Good luck, looking forward to seeing how it turns out!
 
The question I have for you is: Are you OK with the "look" of the roll marks after a cut, or do you intend to simply shave them off, as shown with the slab-sided examples shown above? If your plan is the latter, I urge you to look for a 3" barrel and compare the cost to that of cutting and re-configuring the barrel sides. You may find that it doesn't cost much more (and may even be less if there isn't much fitting necessary) to replace instead of cut, all depending on your skills to do it yourself or what your gunsmith will charge.
For example, I replaced a 4" with a 3" on a Model 64 back in 2012 for $220, $165 of that going to the barrel. In the last year, I replaced a 4" with a 2" on a Model 34 for around $50 for the barrel and a 4" with a 3" on a Model 10 for $55 (barrel) plus $150 (work plus a new cylinder.) I also have 2 of the $149 J&G barrel-less frames waiting for 2" ($95) and 5" ($115) barrels I purchased online to be added. I don't anticipate either to be outrageously expensive for the 'smithing.
Anyway, just my experiences with barrel-related modification. Good luck, looking forward to seeing how it turns out!


As stated, I cannot find a 3” barrel. The market seems to have dried up due to demand.
There is a 3” M64 (SS) on eBay for $200.00. No thanks.
 
This isn't a model 10, but a model 58. The original barrel was removed in exchange for a model 57 barrel which was cut and re-profiled. The front sight was made to a fixed sight standard height and pinned in place. The barrel work was done by our own Keith44spl. I don't know if he is accepting work at this time, but might could refer you to another capable source.

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Dave added the red ramp at my request, and Ford's in Florida moved the roll marks then re-blued the gun.
 

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I have found about ten or so gunsmiths doing revolver chops. I am getting ready to have one done by Mark at Pinnacle High Performance who is months behind. My second choice is Hellfire Customs.
 
I took this barrel from 5 1/2” to 4”, not exactly what you asked but close.

The front sight is the original. I removed it from the cut off and radiused the base. I fluxed it and tinned it. Then I clamped it where I wanted it on the shorter barrel and reintroduced the heat. When the solder flowed, I removed the heat. Wiped the joints and let it cool.

I also reshaped the 1/2 moon slighlty, and added a spot of braze to make it stand out.

Kevin
 

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I’m going to have the barrel on M10 (made 1982) cut to 3” .
For those of you that have gone this route, show me pictures of yours, and what kind of sight you installed.
Thanks.
Who're you using for the work?
 
If you have the front sight silver soldered back on, it is best to make a shallow key way in the barrel and make the base of the sight fit the key way. Tin both base and barrel and then clamp and reheat. The shallow key way method makes for a far stronger joint.

Here is a model 10 converted to 327 federal with a 3" barrel
sIA2ryw.jpg
 
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I like the way Arquebus357 had the barrel maintain the rounded profile and had the name removed. I hadn't thought about that option.

When I came up with the thoughts on mine I really liked the uniqueness of the slab sided barrels and wanted something that was special to me.

That is why I didn't go out and find a 3" barrel.

Besides I also have 2 Model 10's (SB and RB) and a Model 64 that are factory 3" models.

I see the ones done by Hellfire Customs in PA from time to time that are 681's cut down to 3" barrel. That is what I really want but can't bring myself to cut down my 681 and I keep missing the ones they have for sale.
 
If you have the front sight silver soldered back on, it is best to make a shallow key way in the barrel and make the base of the sight fit the key way. Tin both base and barrel and then clamp and reheat. The shallow key way method makes for a far stronger joint.

Yes...But I silver brazed (65% silver filler at 1,200 degrees F)
Here is my key way as you suggest.

 
I know originals are pricey, but it seems to me like the gun +
custom smithing would run as much or more as finding an original 3”.
 
I know originals are pricey, but it seems to me like the gun +
custom smithing would run as much or more as finding an original 3”.

I think that some examples shown in this thread were not examples of "custom smithing". I believe they are home brews by bubbas like me.
 
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I know originals are pricey, but it seems to me like the gun +
custom smithing would run as much or more as finding an original 3”.

Maybe someday in the future Model 10s and Model 64s will be sought after rarities. Not so much now, around here they are common as mud after rain. Modifying one or a thousand is a good exercise to create what you want.

Kevin
 

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