Cutting brass cases

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hachabrava

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Hello, folks.

This isn't realoding related per se, but I'd like to tap your expertise on the topic as I feel you'd be the most qualified and this forum section the most relevant.

I'd like to know what would be the simplest, most cost-effective way to cut the rim off brass cases. The lady is interested in making jewelry (such as this: 40 Smith Wesson Winchester Nickel Bullet by wildwestjewelryshop, Disclaimer: those are NOT my/our wares.) with them. We've got the rest of the steps figured out, but not how to cut them.

Any insight on the topic would be appreciated. If the mods feel that this post is inadequate, then please do lock/erase/move it.

Thanks in advance,
~hachabrava
 
Metal-cutting bandsaw would be the easy and safe in my opinion. You could try a hack saw but it would be difficult to hold while cutting without marring the finish.
 
Harbor Freight has a baby chop saw that I think uses fiber blades that I know guys use to cut down cases for making different wildcat brass like .308 into .45-08 brass. That would be my choice if I wanted to cut a bunch of cases.
 
I do work like that with a Dremel Tool and an abrasive cut off bit.
I cut off small bolts that way.
A hole drilled in a steel plate just the right size to hold the case should help get an accurate cut.
I slide the bit along the plate to cut bolts to just the right length.


Best,
Rick
 
I 2'nd the Dremel abrasive wheel. I have tried to cut various thin brass tubing and cases with a fine (32 tooth) hacksaw and it just doesn't work. Not enough teeth engaged to prevent it from grabbing. The Dremel makes a very nice cut. The key is to have it well supported so your cut is straight.
 
Tubing cutter from Home Depot.

A while back I made some wildcat cases (.30 Herritt), basically shoving the shoulder back on .30-30 cases to make then shorter. The excess neck was cut off with a tubing cutter, and very easily.
 
If I were going to use a fine hack saw, I would first fill the case with thickened epoxy and let it cure.
I use cab-o-sil to thicken it, but even sawdust works.

Best,
Rick
 
Agree on the Dremel. I like the fiber metal cutting wheels.
Stick the case onto a dowel to support it.
If not totally obvious, don't do this with a live primer in the case!
 
Utility cutter

I used a knife with the stiff replaceable blade, put the brass on a board, put the knife where you want to cut and roll the case back and forth under the blade, pressing hard. Only takes a few seconds of rolling.

I cut down cases, filed them to the right size, soldered a brass wire handle on them and used them for powder dippers. I can make any size I want.
 
Last edited:
Thank you all for the insight. I'll probably acquire a Dremel tool for the job. I'll let you know how it turns out.
 
Dremel with a cut off blade.

Even the smallest tube/pipe cutter will not fit evenly over the head of the case. The rollers on both sides of the cutter wheel have to be on the case or pipe, she is cutting to close to the end.

A regular hack saw with a fine tooth blade will work or a mini hack saw. The closer to the end (head) the thicker the brass is in the web area.
 
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If I were going to do a number of them and I assume you are. Plus a number of different sizes (calibers),,I'd check and see if a couple of the LEE case trimming gadgets could help you.

Case Trimming Tools - Lee Precision

Their power case trimming tools hold on to the case by the rim, so that's a nice feature. I'd get the Universal 3-Jaw Chuck for $16 that'll fit any caliber you want.

I get a Cutter & Lock Stud for $7. (Two sizes, small & large. But it's the Lock Stud you're after, not the cutter)
The Lock Stud you'll need as it attaches the above 3 Jaw Chuck to an electric drill for you.
With the drill secured in a vise, you can lock a case in the 3-Jaw, turn on the drill and cut the excess brass off w/a hacksaw while the case is spinning. A 32 tpi blade would do fine.
While it's still spinning, a fine file could be used to trim the brass back to the final dimension needed. A touch with some fine grit abrasive cloth while spinning and that case is completed. Nice smooth, even and clean.

Seems quick, easy and an easy way to handle the cases w/o damaging them while cutting.
The only thing that may sink the whole idea is if the 3 jaw won't secure the case well enough to cut and file on it while it's spinning. It's made to be used as a trimmer w/a piloted cutter coming in from the mouth of the case so there's no side pressure on the case doing that.

Just an idea. May it'll help figuring something out. Looks like pretty neat jewelry!
 
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oberon said:
Chuck the case in the lathe and use the parting tool.
Click to expand...

That's how I would do it, although I would probably cut a mandrel out of wood to slide the case over, then bring the tailstock up to support the bottom of the case, and keep it in place after parting.
 
oberon said:
Chuck the case in the lathe and use the parting tool.
Click to expand...

It's about time someone figured out that a Lathe is the best tool for this task. However I would strongly recommend using a Collet to hold the casing instead of a Scroll Chuck. The problem with using a chuck is that you can't get a good solid grip using a chuck so if the cutter digs in you have chunks of cuttoff tool and workpiece flying everywhere, not pleasant. A collet provides a full perimeter contact and is just the ticket for something like this.

Bad news is that lathes aren't cheap, a small bench lathe will typically start at about 1000 dollars. In addition I don't know if one of the small bench lathes can be set up with a quick release collet. If you are interrest in taking this route I would suggest contacting a Machine Shop Equipment dealer such as Production Tool.
 
Another vote for the cheap hf mini-chopsaw. They use metal blades that when lubed (a bar of soap or candle held against the spinning blade every 10 cuts) will easily make strait or angled cuts in shell cases.

I cut 1000+ shell cases a year to make bullets with. After the cases are trimmed to length I seat lead cores & swage them into bullets.

Some 220gr 45acp hp's that I make out of 40s&w cases.



Some 165gr 30cal bullets that I make from 9mm/380acp/32acp cases.



147gr 9mm & 357 for the 38/357 from 9mm/380acp cases.



220gr .430 bullets for the 44spl/mag.



I'm showing you all these bullets because I would never do them if I had to use a cast trimmer or a dremel tool with a cut-off wheel.

I do own a case trimmer, have for decades & a dremel tool and have tried them both. Waaaay to time consuming!!!!
 
Forrest r said:
Another vote for the cheap hf mini-chopsaw. They use metal blades that when lubed (a bar of soap or candle held against the spinning blade every 10 cuts) will easily make strait or angled cuts in shell cases.

I cut 1000+ shell cases a year to make bullets with. After the cases are trimmed to length I seat lead cores & swage them into bullets.

Some 220gr 45acp hp's that I make out of 40s&w cases.



Some 165gr 30cal bullets that I make from 9mm/380acp/32acp cases.



147gr 9mm & 357 for the 38/357 from 9mm/380acp cases.



220gr .430 bullets for the 44spl/mag.



I'm showing you all these bullets because I would never do them if I had to use a cast trimmer or a dremel tool with a cut-off wheel.

I do own a case trimmer, have for decades & a dremel tool and have tried them both. Waaaay to time consuming!!!!
Click to expand...

I like the idea your bullets ....would love know more on how you do it.
 
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