cylinder came out - Help

[Assault Manager]

S&W Airweight Centennial 612 - while cleaning the wheel, i push the whole cylinder out - It fits back in BUT NOT SECURE, in falls right out. Did some kind of something pop out?

 

[Smith357]

It sounds like your cylinder stop has either worked its way in, or fallen out, or sheared off. The cylinder stop is the part that holds the cylinder in the gun when it's open and circled in red on the attached picture.

 

[WR Moore]

S&W Airweight Centennial 612 - while cleaning the wheel, i push the whole cylinder out -

Wheel? What wheel? BTW, I was taught the cylinder stop is inside the frame window and stops the cylinders rotation when lined up with the barrel.

OK, when the cylinder is swung out to the side of the weapon:

If the yoke and cylinder fall out the front of the weapon, check the sideplate screw just above the trigger on the right hand side. If it's missing, you need a replacement. If it's not, the gun needs to go back to the factory.

If the cylinder falls off the yoke, back toward the rear of the weapon, the frame lug is worn/defective. The gun needs to go back to the factory.

There's a contact number for S&W customer service in your manual. Call them.

 

[500 Magnum Nut]

There is also a chance the yoke is bent. If the "wheel" is not in the proper place it can roll off the yoke onto the floor.
Does the cylinder open and close easily? If not that needs to be looked at by someone with an alignment tool.

That frame lug is easily fixed, you don't have to send it in for that.

 

[Assault Manager]

yoke

thanks all for getting back to me (the newbee)
anyhow I learned it is the YOKE that came out and it fits back in fine BUT it just falls out. Am I missing some "clip" or something. It is just a straight yoke rode with a bubble end. ?

 

[murphydog]

You are probably missing the forward sideplate screw, on the right side of the frame above the trigger guard. This retains the yoke (crane) and cylinder assembly. Give S & W customer service a call tomorrow with the gun's model and serial number and they should be able to help.

 

[WhisperFan]

Pictures sometimes help me 'see' things more clearly.

A - is the front sideplate screw.

B - is what the screw should look like.

The little unthreaded portion at the bottom of the screw should screw in far enough to prevent the yoke from coming out.

There are only three reasons the yoke shoud come out:
1. The front sideplate screw is missing
2. The little unthreaded portion of the sideplate screw is worn or broken
3. The front portion of the yoke is worn or broken off.

If the screw is there, and you feel comfortable, you can remove the screw and inspect it. It is a standard right hand thread, and the only thing I would caution you is to use a screwdriver that tightly fits the slot and don't force it. If you have the proper bit for your screwdriver and you apply moderate pressure counterclockwise, and it doesn't want to budge .... I sometimes rest the firearm against my stomach while sitting and apply pressure to the screwdriver, and gently tap the rear of the screwdriver with a plastic head mallet. The sideplate screw shouldn't be that tight - but I have seen some snug ones.

 

[charlies]

A tip of my hat to you whispherfan...in trying to resolve assault managers problems. Your use of pictures is above and beyond what someone usually does when responding.
Charlie

 

[Alk8944]

Pictures sometimes help me 'see' things more clearly.

A - is the front sideplate screw.

B - is what the screw should look like.

The little unthreaded portion at the bottom of the screw should screw in far enough to prevent the yoke from coming out.

There are only three reasons the yoke shoud come out:
1. The front sideplate screw is missing
2. The little unthreaded portion of the sideplate screw is worn or broken
3. The front portion of the yoke is worn or broken off.

If the screw is there, and you feel comfortable, you can remove the screw and inspect it. It is a standard right hand thread, and the only thing I would caution you is to use a screwdriver that tightly fits the slot and don't force it. If you have the proper bit for your screwdriver and you apply moderate pressure counterclockwise, and it doesn't want to budge .... I sometimes rest the firearm against my stomach while sitting and apply pressure to the screwdriver, and gently tap the rear of the screwdriver with a plastic head mallet. The sideplate screw shouldn't be that tight - but I have seen some snug ones.

Assault Mahager,

Just a heads-up. When you get the sideplate screw it will not look like the one in this picture. What Whisper Fan has pictured is the old style solid screw which S&W has not used for for 15 years or so. What you will get is a slightly larger screw with a pointed spring-loaded plunger in it.

Before doing anything try this. First, check to see if the yoke screw is still in your gun. If it is then remove it and see if the plunger is in place. If it is then install the yoke and then re-install the screw until it is tight (very snug). Chances are the problem will be fixed. You cannot install the yoke without, at least, loosening the yoke screw at least 3 turns or removing it. Obviously, if the yoke screw is missing, or the plunger missing or stuck in the "in" position, then order a replacement. S&W likely will send one no-charge, depending on who you talk with.

With this style of yoke screw (yoke retainer) the cylinder and yoke can come off the gun if you push too hard on the cylinder while loading or cleaning. This is inherent in the design using the spring-loaded plunger. Obviously S&W doesn't consider this a design flaw or they would change it!

 

[Marshal Tom]

I just sent my 337Ti back because the cylinder was backing off of the crane past the stop at the bottom of the rear of the frame window as shown in the first pic and circled. The factory told me that they could not repair it since it was in need of a new frame, no longer produced. They sent me a new 340 M&P as a replacement. I do not know what caused this condition since the gun had been well cared for and had a relatively low round count. His revolver could have developed the same problem.

Tom

 

[WhisperFan]

Just a heads-up. When you get the sideplate screw it will not look like the one in this picture. What WhisperFan has pictured is the old style solid screw which S&W has not used for for 15 years or so. What you will get is a slightly larger screw with a pointed spring-loaded plunger in it.

Didn't know that - thanks

I've probably had 25 Smith's over trhe course of my life, and the only ones I've had apart are the old style.

Thanks for the info! The old system worked and looks less complicated, wonder why they changed it?

 

[Assault Manager]

please read

WhisperFan, AIK8944, Charles and all you others who took your time to assist me. THANK YOU. Whisper & AIK you were right on the money! The time you both took not only to try to provide answers but so completely with such detail (the kind of need)
In cleaning I was over aggressive - I clip the tip on the plunger that fits into the side screw to secure the yoke.
Call S&W and they are going to mail me a new one no charge.
Any advise when screwing the tiny tiny plugger in?

So, you no only help me with my S&W but you helped me to faith in the goodness of my fellow man. GB
AM

 

[CT Smith Fan]

The only advise is make sure that the yoke is fully seated in the frame before you start threading the new screw and take it easy when you tighten it. good luck!

 

[Alk8944]

Didn't know that - thanks

I've probably had 25 Smith's over trhe course of my life, and the only ones I've had apart are the old style.

Thanks for the info! The old system worked and looks less complicated, wonder why they changed it?

The same reason most changes to new ways of doing things, simplified production which reduces costs. The tapered spring-loaded plunger retains the yoke without any end-shake, and without fitting.