Cylinder fouling during range sessions with 617
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Ribwizzard
Member
Keep the muzzle pointed straight up when ejecting spent cartridges, keep the **** from getting under the star.
I did exactly the same thing with my M34-1.
When I first got it, I had Ely rounds. 3 cylinders of this ammo and I was done for the day.
Next I brought Winchesters. By 3 or maybe 4 cylinders. DONE. I could not push out the empty cases without cutting a slug of flesh out of my finger.
Next I find I have a few boxes of Remington so I am going to give these a try. In the interim I made up a Delrin plug to cushion the ejector rod end from digging into my finger. (I would never smack an ejector rod of an open cylinder. They are just too delicate.) Again 3 or 4 cylinders and I needed the plug I made. By 6 even that was too much, in my mind. I also brought a cleaning brush and needed it every couple of cylinders.
Finally found a solution. Federal 325 box of 40gr
Access Denied
No issues with it what so ever. Decided to give them a test and shot the whole box of 325 without cleaning.
Shot another box of 325 no cleaning and no issue
Same success with Federal copper washed
I have relegated all of my non-Federal to either Semi-autos, rifles or Ruger Single-Six.
Larry
My 617-6 hates all Remingtons, from the first SpeedBeez loader on - the bullets are just not sized to fit the chambers. And very dirty - everything got harder to work after the first 20 rounds. Got 100 through it, then ran a dry brush through the cylinder. Switched to CCI SV and MiniMags, and no problems loading, nor any appreciable fouling. It also likes Federal HV Match - not quite as clean as the CCI, but accurate. Never had a failure to fire any ammo, though I caught myself checking the Remingtons for full seating with my thumb before closing the cylinder.
lscocoa
Member
I shoot Federal Classic hp's in most of my k22's . I also use the Federal bulk 525 round hp's from Walmart ,a pinkish colored box. They shoot pretty much the same but with an occasional dud, or flier , but I never have had an ejection problem in my617-6 even after 3-400 rds. My17-4 hates them . I do clean my guns after every range time and I do use a bore brush on some of my17's cause of tough extraction. You could get some J B bore compound and clean your chambers per directions which I've done with 22 mag cylinders because it's such a dirty rd..
I have a M17 I got new in 1964. It has had thousands of rds through it and still gets sticky on extraction. I have older ones bought used and they get sticky too. They shoot really well and I never wanted to risk the accuracy of them to mess with chambers. I just live with cleaning them.
.38SuperMan
Member
Two weeks ago I ran over 300 Federal bulk copper wash rounds through my 617 with no issues. When reloading each round dropped easily into the cylinder without any assistance from beginning to end of the session. At the end of the session I shot a couple of cylinders of Remington Thunderbolts and had more fouling than the 300+ rounds of Federal
I've also had Federal lock up the cylinder on my model 34 and my wife's 317 after 5 -6 cylinders full
In general I think copper clad are cleaner than all lead billets. I think most of the fouling is due to the lube on the lead. I've found this true in my 45 acp reloads. The lube on lead bullets are much dirtier than polymer coated and especially copper plated or jacketed.
I've also had Federal lock up the cylinder on my model 34 and my wife's 317 after 5 -6 cylinders full
In general I think copper clad are cleaner than all lead billets. I think most of the fouling is due to the lube on the lead. I've found this true in my 45 acp reloads. The lube on lead bullets are much dirtier than polymer coated and especially copper plated or jacketed.
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Almost all Smith and Wesson .22 caliber revolvers have undersized charge holes.
If you do a forum search you will fined a number of threads about the problem of tight charge holes with .22 caliber revolvers.
Order and use a .22 caliber chamber reamer on/through all the charge holes. It's easy to do and takes less than an hour.
Best of luck
If you do a forum search you will fined a number of threads about the problem of tight charge holes with .22 caliber revolvers.
Order and use a .22 caliber chamber reamer on/through all the charge holes. It's easy to do and takes less than an hour.
Best of luck
LEW1943
Member
617-6 CYLINDER FOULING
Have about 300 rounds of Federal target RNL through my 617-6. Extraction does become more difficult after each cylinder but nothing that I can't deal with. Have fired some vintage Remington 22S that are no problem. Each range trip I do 100 rounds of the Federal. Last couple of cylinders are the most difficult. Careful cleaning after each trip and it is ready to go again. Use only Hoppes 9 - it works fine for me.
Have about 300 rounds of Federal target RNL through my 617-6. Extraction does become more difficult after each cylinder but nothing that I can't deal with. Have fired some vintage Remington 22S that are no problem. Each range trip I do 100 rounds of the Federal. Last couple of cylinders are the most difficult. Careful cleaning after each trip and it is ready to go again. Use only Hoppes 9 - it works fine for me.
I love my 617 but I found out real fast that the cylinders needed to be reamed out a bit before I could shoot a lot of rounds without fouling to the point that I had to use a lot of force to empty the cylinder.
I used a Clymer .22 cal reamer and never had another problem afterwards. Too bad I lent it to someone that lent it to someone only never to be seen again.
When I got my 617 I've decided to do a "torture test" - all I did just wipe externals after range visits. After about 800 rounds of federal plated bulk I gave up. It just kept going. I use SpeedBeez speed loader and go round with my thumb after loading cylinder to ensure that nothing "sticks out". The only ammo I've had problem with is Norma tac22 - that stuff had really sticky extraction. After that "test" I just clean it after every range visit, even if it only had few cylinders through.
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As much as I like my 617-1, it doesn't see much range use because it gets dirty quickly and is more time consuming to clean than my semi-autos are.
jgreen2193
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I have a 22lr cylinder finish reamer manson I think , I ordered it from brownells last year but too nervous to use it. I used some flitz and a brush chucked in my drill gently and quickly, helped a little. Not too much though. I keep a 243 bronze brush on hand and hit them quick once they get sticky. 50-70 rounds.
One of these days I'll ream them. I'm very mechanically enclosed but I hate to mess up. I've tapped holes and died bolts, helicoiled, etc and drill metal, weld, braze, work with my hands for a living. I did get some brownells do-drill as well.
One of these days I'll ream them. I'm very mechanically enclosed but I hate to mess up. I've tapped holes and died bolts, helicoiled, etc and drill metal, weld, braze, work with my hands for a living. I did get some brownells do-drill as well.
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BigBill
Absent Comrade
I would try using a brush or bore mop with moly on it after cleaning the bores in the cylinder. Burnish the moly into the pores of the metal then wipe off the excess moly with a patch.
On military rifles I wash the chambers with usgi rifle bore cleaner. Then leave a very light film of oil in the chamber. I think a dry chamber can get sticky.
On military rifles I wash the chambers with usgi rifle bore cleaner. Then leave a very light film of oil in the chamber. I think a dry chamber can get sticky.
The only permanent solution to this problem is to ream the chambers with a standard finishing reamer. I have done 7 or 8 K 22's now including a 1936 outdoorsman and a 617-6. Only need thumb pressure to eject a cylinderful. Just remember to use plenty of cutting oil, go slow by hand only, never turn the cutter backwards, and remove and clean often (3-4 times ea chamber). Watch when the shoulder cutter reaches the recess, and just let it "brighten" the metal without removing anything. The 10 shot 617 might take you 45 min to 1 hr. There is no change in accuracy.
Prior to going to the range I'll wipe 22's dry and spray the action, chambers down with remi-dry lube. It helps in keeping the build up down on rimfires as opposed to an oil type.
At the range, I keep bore snakes in my range tool box along with clean soft rags, lubes and stuff. After a few boxes of .22's, I'll run the snake through the cylinders and barrel quickly, wipe down things with a rag and start up again. If it's a semi, I'll spray the action down with remi-dry lube again.
Works for me, no gunky build-up and the final clean-up is a lot easier at home.
At the range, I keep bore snakes in my range tool box along with clean soft rags, lubes and stuff. After a few boxes of .22's, I'll run the snake through the cylinders and barrel quickly, wipe down things with a rag and start up again. If it's a semi, I'll spray the action down with remi-dry lube again.
Works for me, no gunky build-up and the final clean-up is a lot easier at home.
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