Cylinder release frozen

[DeplorabusUnum]

Last night I pulled out my 25-2 to clean it and The cylinder wouldn't open. I pushed the cylinder release as far forward as it would go, and was able to get it open with a light whack with a plastic mallet.

I took off the cylinder to make sure the ejection rod was screwed in tight, and it was. Put it back together and the cylinder still won't open. Can't pull the hammer back. I took off the cylinder release knob and it seems stuck. It will move toward the grips, but will not move all the way forward toward the cylinder.

Anything else simple that I should check before heading to a gunsmith? Also, if I need a gunsmith, anyone know of a good one in western Oregon? Any info greatly appreciated.

 

[BLUEDOT37]

When you had the cylinder off to check the ejection rod did you think to see if the center rod can be fully depressed & returns freely?

Since it's been sitting maybe the center rod is stuck, either gummed up or rusted.

.

 

[WR Moore]

Pull the grips off, and let it soak in a bucket of kerosene for a few days.
Don't whack the cylinder with a hammer! Good way to bend the center pin, enlarge the center pin hole in the breech face and gouge your breech face.

If you tried to cock the hammer with the cylinder open/out, the bolt (widget that moves the center pin) was locking the action as designed.

 

[H Richard]

To cock the hammer with the cylinder out, pull the cylinder release to the rear (same as the pin would push it when cylinder was closed).

 

[nedlate]

I have had a few revolvers that were sticky like yours-they had sat in the safe for some time. I would take the cylinder release thumb piece off, put a few drops of gun oil or penetrating oil in and work the release slide back and forth a bunch until it freed up. Hopefully!
Ed

 

[DeplorabusUnum]

When you had the cylinder off to check the ejection rod did you think to see if the center rod can be fully depressed & returns freely?

Since it's been sitting maybe the center rod is stuck, either gummed up or rusted.

.

Center ejection rod is fine. Slides in and out all the way, and seats completely on the 2 pins that fit through the extractor. No crud under the ejector plate either.

 

[DeplorabusUnum]

Pull the grips off, and let it soak in a bucket of kerosene for a few days.
Don't whack the cylinder with a hammer! Good way to bend the center pin, enlarge the center pin hole in the breech face and gouge your breech face.

If you tried to cock the hammer with the cylinder open/out, the bolt (widget that moves the center pin) was locking the action as designed.

I didn't try that. I was just saying that with the cylinder closed the hammer won't pull back rotating the cylinder.

So kerosine won't hurt the finish? I'm willing to try anything simple like that.

 

[DeplorabusUnum]

I have had a few revolvers that were sticky like yours-they had sat in the safe for some time. I would take the cylinder release thumb piece off, put a few drops of gun oil or penetrating oil in and work the release slide back and forth a bunch until it freed up. Hopefully!
Ed

Thanks, that certainly seems worth a try. I will today.

 

[Engine49guy]

If its stuck and soaking doesn't free it up my next step would be to try removing the side plate and removing the hammer trigger etc, clean and inspect,

 

[bigggbbruce]

Center ejection rod is fine. Slides in and out all the way, and seats completely on the 2 pins that fit through the extractor. No crud under the ejector plate either.

Not what was suggested..

Center pin is the little nub that protruded out of the extractor and keeps the cylinder aligned with barrel and closed.

Press that little nub.. it's spring loaded can be depressed with your finger..

If this pin doesn't return fully, you will not be able to cock the hammer..sticky makes opening the cylinder difficult.

 

[DeplorabusUnum]

Not what was suggested..

Center pin is the little nub that protruded out of the extractor and keeps the cylinder aligned with barrel and closed.

Press that little nub.. it's spring loaded can be depressed with your finger..

If this pin doesn't return fully, you will not be able to cock the hammer..sticky makes opening the cylinder difficult.

Ok thanks. Will check that

 

[WR Moore]

So kerosine won't hurt the finish? I'm willing to try anything simple like that.

Well, you might want to remove the rear sight if it's got the white outline. The finish shouldn't be affected-unless maybe yours is painted or cerrakoted..

 

[Fishinfool]

Might also want to put a drop of oil on the spring loaded pin that engages the front of your ejector rod, at the tip. If it is binding, it can also cause the same issue.

Larry

 

[DeplorabusUnum]

Might also want to put a drop of oil on the spring loaded pin that engages the front of your ejector rod, at the tip. If it is binding, it can also cause the same issue.

Larry

Not what was suggested..

Center pin is the little nub that protruded out of the extractor and keeps the cylinder aligned with barrel and closed.

Press that little nub.. it's spring loaded can be depressed with your finger..

If this pin doesn't return fully, you will not be able to cock the hammer..sticky makes opening the cylinder difficult.

So I checked the center pin and it's broken. It moves freely, but instead of sticking out 17 or 18 hundredths of an inch it's protruding only about 3 hundredths from the ejector plate. I assume that part can be replaced fairly easily by just unscrewing the ejector rod from the cylinder and putting in a new one. Any suggestions on a good place to find parts would be greatly appreciated.

 

[armorer951]

New center pins are available, but it will have to be fit to your assembly. It's not a "drop in" part. Also, because of the change in the location of the collar on many of the new center pins, you may need to find a "period correct" center pin for your model 25-2. S&W part number 04992, or 07275 (stainless).

This one at Midway may have the correct collar location. According to the parts manual, it has the correct number. Perhaps you can compare the illustration to your broken one......

Smith & Wesson Center Pin S&W N-Frame Model 24 27 28 57 610 624

 

[DeplorabusUnum]

New center pins are available, but it will have to be fit to your assembly. It's not a "drop in" part.

OK Thanks. By the way, I was born in Evansville, IN.

 

[Jason Demond]

So I checked the center pin and it's broken. It moves freely, but instead of sticking out 17 or 18 hundredths of an inch it's protruding only about 3 hundredths from the ejector plate. I assume that part can be replaced fairly easily by just unscrewing the ejector rod from the cylinder and putting in a new one. Any suggestions on a good place to find parts would be greatly appreciated.

Pump the brakes my Guy...

Is the tip still nicely rounded?




I would imagine your gun is completely gunked up. Some oils that we use for gun cleaning are for short term use only. Long periods of time tend to dry them out, turning them from oil into a sticky varnish type material.

Your center pin can become stuck as well, just like your cylinder release. How is your DA pull? Heavy as hell perhaps? I think your gun needs a good cleaning. This will involve the side plate being removed (don't pry it, gentle tapping only), and the disassembly of your cylinder.

Watch this video and see if that doesn't sound familiar.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ROmWtQF70vs&t=1s[/ame]

 

[DeplorabusUnum]

Pump the brakes my Guy...

Is the tip still nicely rounded?




I would imagine your gun is completely gunked up. Some oils that we use for gun cleaning are for short term use only. Long periods of time tend to dry them out, turning them from oil into a sticky varnish type material.

Your center pin can become stuck as well, just like your cylinder release. How is your DA pull? Heavy as hell perhaps? I think your gun needs a good cleaning. This will involve the side plate being removed (don't pry it, gentle tapping only), and the disassembly of your cylinder.

Watch this video and see if that doesn't sound familiar.

S&W Combat Magnum Resurrection - YouTube

The tip of the center pin is partially rounded. There is a crescent shaped area around the edge that is flat. When I close the cylinder the thumb piece remains in the forward position. Compared to the tip of the center pin on my 629, it's not nearly as dome shaped at the tip.

I'm going to take the face plate off and clean everything as best I can. Maybe something is gumming up the spring that pushes the center pin when the cylinder closes because it doesn't return the thumb piece to its normal position. I guess I'll have to remove the ejector rod to find out if the problem is inside the cylinder. Good video. Thanks for posting.

I've never lubricated this gun, but I've only had it for a few months, so I suppose it's possible the previous owner over lubed it. I appreciate all the comments and efforts to help a novice when it comes to revolver care and feeding.

 

[DeplorabusUnum]

So today I took apart the problem revolver to clean it completely. There was no gunk or anything causing the parts to stick. Below is a picture before cleaning with the side plate off.

Not much to clean up, just a couple of spots of oil to wipe off, no glue. I took all the parts out and cleaned everything with brake clean, and applied a light bit of Hoppes #9 to everything and wiped off everything I could see (as suggested by gunblue).

I also took apart the cylinder and thoroughly cleaned it. Just some powder residue that was cleaned out. Both springs were fine.

The center pin is indeed broken. It is completely pushed in and seated as far as it will go. Below is a picture of the center pin of the 25-2 with a picture of the pin of my 629-1. Markedly different. I'm going to order the part suggested above. Hope it fits.

The 25-2:

The 629-1:

 

[vinn]

a good type of pen. oil is a God send. you can use a lot, as it can be washed out with alcohol ! leave it for 24 hrs.s. and, if that don't loosen it , dilute the penitraring with 50% gasoline. good luck, vin